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Zoot wood balcony job.


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18 hours ago, Roundtuit said:

No; just go back a page and check the description of 'bright nails' 😉

 

6 hours ago, zoothorn said:

No 'bright nails' on page 17. No idea what you mean.

 

Could you just not say what it is you're implying instead-?
 

Is 'bright' a term for 'galvanised' or something??

 I did, I said 'No'.  If you click on the link you posted and go back one page ('Back to Bright nails' - you were shopping in the Bright Nails section...), it tells you that bright nails are uncoated.  Anyway, pleased you're sorted...

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17 hours ago, Roundtuit said:

 

 I did, I said 'No'.  If you click on the link you posted and go back one page ('Back to Bright nails' - you were shopping in the Bright Nails section...), it tells you that bright nails are uncoated.  Anyway, pleased you're sorted...

Ok missed that- thanks roundtuit.

 

Ive whacked in some I had, will come back redo in due course.

 

I don't suppose the BCO will mind which nails.. & recall as buried in wood, bar the head, normals possibly ok anyway.

 

My -CURIN SHROUDS- ( very clever pun) coming off today. Onto my deck boards then. What gap between? Pencil?

 

Thanks, zoot 

 

 

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Chaps, I have about 10mm-15mm of lateral 'flex' of the structure as it is.. at the front. Likely because of the steel tether points of both pillar spikes, & the steel ledger fix points (outwards of the wall by 50mm).

 

Is this anything to worry about? Maybe expected before the handrail addition sures things up-?
 

I wonder if this diagnosis suggests noggins needed.

 

Thanks, Zoothorn 

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4 minutes ago, markc said:

Some flex and racking is to be expected until it is held square by bracing or the deck you put on it


 

Hi markc, ah yes of course: understand the deck boards ( delivery here tmrw) will hopefully sure things up.
 

Will report back tmrw once these put down tmrw.
 

Update photos too- concrete pads seems good, if a bit unsightly! Thx zh

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I think full depth noggins would be good.

 

maybe put half the decking in first then you will ensure that the noggins land right under a board and not in the gap between 2 boards ( this just traps water)

 

I did 6mm gap, used offcut of plywood to ensure space was accurate 

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1 hour ago, TonyT said:

I think full depth noggins would be good.

 

maybe put half the decking in first then you will ensure that the noggins land right under a board and not in the gap between 2 boards ( this just traps water)

 

I did 6mm gap, used offcut of plywood to ensure space was accurate 


Is there any reason you can't put nogs in after the boards on? Am I being daft asking this? I have some unused 4x2 I could put in as nogs.. don't suppose they -have- to be 6x2'x, do they?

 

And nogs are just 2 nails in each end, right? Nothing more than that needed. I could come back to this job, if the deck boards don't fix my flex I guess.. wait until.

 

Thanks, useful replies TT.. zh

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On 01/09/2022 at 17:19, Canski said:

fantastic views. 


Hi Canski, sat out 1st time last ev.. on this LHS, & it's an absolute knockout spot.
 

And the RHS door gives me a bit of privacy in fact/ damn useful choice doors opening out this way after all.

 

 

 

 

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Chaps, the support posts for the handrails.. ie the 4 corner vertical posts (plus two more upright posts along the front).. 

 

.. 4" or 3" square posts?  
 

And the one each side next to my wavy wall render, presumably needs fixing to the wall, as well as to the outside of my frame below?
 

The gap means I need to do another tube insert if so.

 

Thanks, zoot

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Just now, joe90 said:

I think 4” is too chunky 🤷‍♂️ (Are you aware it has to be 1.1m high? )


Hi J, I think you're right. Its really whether 3" is sufficient, strengthwise was my Q though.

 

So thats 1100mm from deck to top of handrail/ top of structure?

 

Thanks, zoot 

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I believe there's a maximum gap between handrail uprights if that's what you're planning. So a child can't fall through or get it's head stuck. 

 

You be best getting it right in case your BCO tugs you on it. 

 

Not sure if you need a kick board?

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1 hour ago, Onoff said:

I'll cut and post you some more bits of stainless tube if you need. 

Hi Onoff, fab of you.. in fact I've got 3 spare: so if the btm of posts ( notched) is fixed to frame with 2 screws, then 1 of your tubes say 2ft above/ a super solid fix to wall.. might mean a vg solid 'back' upright support post? 
 

Thanks, zh
 

 

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31 minutes ago, Onoff said:

I believe there's a maximum gap between handrail uprights if that's what you're planning. So a child can't fall through or get it's head stuck. 

 

You be best getting it right in case your BCO tugs you on it. 

 

Not sure if you need a kick board?

He told me 'go 95mm' so I aint got a choice! Rules are 100mm.

 

kick board-?

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