Radian Posted March 25, 2022 Share Posted March 25, 2022 The dormers and garage door are neatly set out with a strong symmetry. Everything that can be done to preserve it would help. The 'island' gutter can be rearranged to put the downpipe connection in the centre. I think this along with a shallower fall to the right would look less jarring even though it adds a bit to the length of pipe. Ideally though, I would explore the ideas already put forward to hide the crosslink inside the garage. So drop down from the middle of the island, far enough to enter the garage then cross to the righthand downpipe or another drainage point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted March 25, 2022 Share Posted March 25, 2022 If it's all about symetry, move the left downpipe so it is the same distance from the garage door as the right one, then a downpipe from BOTH ends of the island gutter one going each way to join up with each of the 2 downpipes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 25, 2022 Share Posted March 25, 2022 (edited) What about another black diagonal on the left to balance things up? Edited March 25, 2022 by Onoff 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saveasteading Posted March 25, 2022 Share Posted March 25, 2022 1 hour ago, Radian said: hide the crosslink inside the garage. There is where I believe that aesthetics should come second to function. Never have rainwater inside the envelope of the building if it can be avoided...there is so much that can go wrong. To bring it deliberately back in and out again horrifies me. Embrace the Pompidou Centre / Lloyds Building principle of showing it, and emphasising it...as you have done. But make sure it is done neatly. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted March 25, 2022 Share Posted March 25, 2022 42 minutes ago, Onoff said: What about another black diagonal on the left to balance things up? Or just clad the front in downpipes in a herringbone pattern. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted March 25, 2022 Share Posted March 25, 2022 (edited) On 24/03/2022 at 11:12, SuperJohnG said: What about this bloody monstrosity? This was the least invasive method if getting the middle gutter to a downpipe. The other option was to take it to the left hand one, but that was worse. Other suggestions have been to run gutter right across but the eaves are 600mm and that look entirely ridiculous. Any other suggestions? Ouch. What about run the gutter right across the two dormers, I've seen that done on a lot of older 1900's properties, it doesnt actually look that bad, mind you, it's castiron and self supporting, uPVC might sag. Another option would be to dive into the sofit and along, although you have pitched sofits so probably no space. What will your drive be? Hard surface or gravel? If a gravel then could you leave it for now, get BC sign off then just remove it and let the water come down onto the gravel, if hard surface I would say no as it will splash too much but you might get away with it on gravel. Or, could you dress the gutter round the 90° and return it towards window say 4 inches, then have the outlet, then drop it in hard against the house and just below the window, then take a very shallow run which would be less intrusive. I think I would investigate no gutter for a while. Edited March 25, 2022 by Carrerahill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted March 25, 2022 Share Posted March 25, 2022 (edited) Right, I have been staring at this for a while, I have an idea, sort of, it will need developed. Get yourself 2 outlet ends rather than the running outlet, some bits of gutter offcut, some solvent weld 32 or 40mm waste pipe, solvent cement and a sol-weld waste pipe coupler, other supplies and materials will be needed too. What you do is create two outlet ends, with 40mm outlet, I would solvent weld a piece of gutter into the outlet, drilled to the size of a 40mm coupler, solvent weld that on, turn it upside down and pour in some epoxy or something to seal it all up and make it solid. You now have a 40mm gutter connector, you can then take that on a 90° bend right into your fascia, however, then sleeve over a bit of normal downpipe so it looks normal. Drill a 32/40mm hole in the fasica and then can you deal with it in your loft somehow? Looking at it, could you get a piece of solvent weld up from the garage, into the loft space? I also say do 2 outlets because that will help with the face you have lost a lot of pipe size, yes it will overflow in heavy rain and yes it will block up easier (well maybe not on a slate roof with no tall trees apparent nearby), but I think it will work. I think maybe you should do this after BC have been, mind you, they might not even question it if they see the 68mm pipe and just assume you lost it somewhere in the building. In fact, I am now going to see if I can make one of these to solve a gutter issue on my garage! Edited March 25, 2022 by Carrerahill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 25, 2022 Share Posted March 25, 2022 @Barney12did a lovely hidden gutter detail in his dormer... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simplysimon Posted March 25, 2022 Share Posted March 25, 2022 the windows and fascia seem to be in an anthracite colour, what about running the guttering with 8 x 90 deg bends around the soffit in towards the windows and run from the middle to both ends. the size of the windws would mean no clips would be required at that point and only needed on the internal sides of the soffit. also having them in an anthracite colour would help them to blend in at the windows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteamyTea Posted March 25, 2022 Share Posted March 25, 2022 (edited) Second idea. How about creating a new facia that runs the full width, and a bit deeper. Use that to cover the existing gutter, 3 short downpipes going into a larger pipe (that is hidden behind the false facia), then to a popper downpipe at one end. Edited March 25, 2022 by SteamyTea 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radian Posted March 25, 2022 Share Posted March 25, 2022 2 hours ago, saveasteading said: There is where I believe that aesthetics should come second to function. Never have rainwater inside the envelope of the building if it can be avoided...there is so much that can go wrong. To bring it deliberately back in and out again horrifies me. Embrace the Pompidou Centre / Lloyds Building principle of showing it, and emphasising it...as you have done. But make sure it is done neatly. I agree with you except that I view a garage as being outside the envelope of the building. They're frequently populated by dripping wet cars! Also solvent welded ABS rainwater pipes/connections can be made extremely reliably so I just don't see any great risk anyway. Another thought is to form a gulley in the driveway below and let rainwater cascade into it from a central running outlet. Could drop a SS chain down part way to encourage water to behave itself on its way down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radian Posted March 25, 2022 Share Posted March 25, 2022 4 minutes ago, SteamyTea said: Second idea. How about creating a new facia that runs the full width, and a bit deeper. Use that to cover the existing gutter, 3 short downpipes going into a larger pipe (that is hidden behind the false facia), then to a popper downpipe at one end. Or.., similarly, extend the slate roof down to a level that meets the window sill and create a nice sheltered overhang so you form a covered walkway between doors without getting wet when it's raining. IMO the elevation above the garage door looks a bit too deep as it is. As well as when fixing cars, Garages are actually quite good work areas for some outdoor projects when its raining. I often have the doors up to give a little extra shelter underneath the part that sticks outside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now