Onoff Posted Sunday at 12:48 Author Posted Sunday at 12:48 It's finally happening: Using unistrut instead of proper channel so had to get creative with some 3D printed spacers: 1
marshian Posted Monday at 14:55 Posted Monday at 14:55 51 minutes ago, Pocster said: 9yrs ? Have you fixed your leak yet ? 😉 1
ToughButterCup Posted Monday at 15:36 Posted Monday at 15:36 How do you manage the water flow (piping) through the roof membrane(s) ?
Onoff Posted Monday at 16:46 Author Posted Monday at 16:46 1 hour ago, ToughButterCup said: How do you manage the water flow (piping) through the roof membrane(s) ? Something like this probably. I'm not BUYING a proper flashing. Going to wet diamond drill the tile and 3D print flashings. All glued down with CT1.
Onoff Posted yesterday at 07:48 Author Posted yesterday at 07:48 Would these corrugated stainless pipes do as the interconnects at the top of the panel between panels 1 and 2 then panel 2 and 3? https://ebay.us/m/hHy3Fm Various sizes. I presume I just equally space my panels on the rail and pick the right length /end fitting pipe? Then the pipes through the roof at each end of the array, same stuff or copper? A lad I'm talking to on another forum reckons he's used copper throughout, his system has been up and running 12 years with no issues.
Bramco Posted yesterday at 08:57 Posted yesterday at 08:57 1 hour ago, Onoff said: A lad I'm talking to on another forum reckons he's used copper throughout, his system has been up and running 12 years with no issues. If you use copper, use 10mm, it means there is less heated water in the hot pipe, so the heat gets to the coil in the tank quicker. we did this in a previous house and afaik, it's still running after 15 years... 😄
SteamyTea Posted yesterday at 10:15 Posted yesterday at 10:15 Just make sure all the joints are compression ones. I think those stainless, corrugated, pipes are to allow for expansion and movement. Make the system a drain back one and those problems go away, but gives you other problems.
Onoff Posted yesterday at 20:43 Author Posted yesterday at 20:43 11 hours ago, Bramco said: If you use copper, use 10mm, it means there is less heated water in the hot pipe, so the heat gets to the coil in the tank quicker. we did this in a previous house and afaik, it's still running after 15 years... 😄 It'll be pumped, will 15mm make much difference?
Bramco Posted 15 hours ago Posted 15 hours ago (edited) 10 hours ago, Onoff said: It'll be pumped, will 15mm make much difference? On our pump controller, the pump only ran when there was enough heat in the header on the solar array. I'm guessing yours will also work this way. So in marginal conditions, it only runs intermittently. Using a narrower bore means that the hot water will actually get through to the tank. With 15mm or bigger, you can get the situation where a hot slug is pumped into the pipe but never reaches the tank. I've not checked but I'm guessing 10mm is also cheaper than 15mm. So probably also a better option if you are on a budget. EDIT Try this, it has good insulation as well as a cable for the temperature sensor. https://www.bes.co.uk/solarquip-twin-flex-insulated-solar-pipe-dn16-x-10m-21102/ Edited 15 hours ago by Bramco
Pocster Posted 14 hours ago Posted 14 hours ago 11 hours ago, Onoff said: It'll be pumped, will 15mm make much difference? 🙄🙄🙄🙄😉
Onoff Posted 3 hours ago Author Posted 3 hours ago 11 hours ago, Bramco said: Try this, it has good insulation as well as a cable for the temperature sensor How much? 😬
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