WWilts Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 (edited) Inner leaf of external cavity wall. Mortar mix 5:1, blocks are 7N aircrete. Doesn't look too good but that's a layperson view. Specified: LABC warranty standards. If not passable, what is the way to remedy work already done? Just pointing enough? And how DO brickies get mortar in perpends? Edited September 30, 2021 by WWilts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyT Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 It’s a bit rough. they get mortar in, by applying enough to squeeze some out when the blocks are pushed together, and then flushing off with the trowel 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWilts Posted September 30, 2021 Author Share Posted September 30, 2021 10 minutes ago, TonyT said: It’s a bit rough. Is there an easy way to remedy work already done? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 Much easier to get mortar on the beds than the perps. They have done a fairly crappy job. It won't fall down but I would not be thrilled to pay for this. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWilts Posted September 30, 2021 Author Share Posted September 30, 2021 4 minutes ago, Mr Punter said: It won't fall down but I would not be thrilled to pay for this. Yes. Will it let in driving rain? Blown-in bonded EPS beads will be in cavity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lorenz Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 Someone who does not understand or care what aircrete is about, dreadful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 8 minutes ago, WWilts said: Will it let in driving rain? No. It is the inner leaf. The rain will not jump the cavity. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWilts Posted September 30, 2021 Author Share Posted September 30, 2021 18 minutes ago, Lorenz said: does not understand or care what aircrete is about Insulation? Zero carbon? Fire resistance? Other? Can raise relevant points in conversations. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted October 1, 2021 Share Posted October 1, 2021 At least the joints are even Point the gaps and ask the Brickie to make sure that the rest is jointed as is he goes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan52 Posted October 1, 2021 Share Posted October 1, 2021 A bricklayer didn't build that. Some guy who has a trowel and lump hammer did. 1 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted October 1, 2021 Share Posted October 1, 2021 If this is the standard now, what’s the rest of it going to be like. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Jones Posted October 1, 2021 Share Posted October 1, 2021 (edited) its just not pointed is all, if you want it to be pointed (better for air tightness) ask the brickie to make sure it is. Some sites its not pointed as its not seen and plastered over anyway. if its the the inner leaf the tie is on the wrong side ? Edited October 1, 2021 by Dave Jones 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted October 1, 2021 Share Posted October 1, 2021 2 hours ago, Dave Jones said: if its the the inner leaf the tie is on the wrong side ? Photo is the cavity facing side of inner leaf. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conor Posted October 1, 2021 Share Posted October 1, 2021 If I think "I could have done a better job", then you know it's bad. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWilts Posted October 1, 2021 Author Share Posted October 1, 2021 (edited) 6 hours ago, Declan52 said: A bricklayer didn't build that Internal face of same blocks Will ask for perpends to be buttered better. Want to dig heels in on what makes a difference, but not the rest. In general good service Edited October 1, 2021 by WWilts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWilts Posted October 1, 2021 Author Share Posted October 1, 2021 3 hours ago, Dave Jones said: plastered over anyway. plasterboard on dabs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted October 1, 2021 Share Posted October 1, 2021 22 minutes ago, WWilts said: plasterboard on dabs Don't tell @tonyshouse! If you plaster instead you will have a nice airtight layer. With dabs you often find that cold outside air can find it's way in and move around freely behind the plasterboard. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyshouse Posted October 1, 2021 Share Posted October 1, 2021 And get into your rooms and first floor void 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWilts Posted October 1, 2021 Author Share Posted October 1, 2021 (edited) 57 minutes ago, tonyshouse said: get into your rooms and first floor void Is there a detail that protects the first floor void when plasterboard on dabs is inevitable for various reasons? Is there a way to seal the gap between joist hangers, where plasterboard is absent? Edited October 1, 2021 by WWilts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lorenz Posted October 1, 2021 Share Posted October 1, 2021 Tape and plaster over is one way passive wise. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyshouse Posted October 1, 2021 Share Posted October 1, 2021 tonytray ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWilts Posted October 1, 2021 Author Share Posted October 1, 2021 3 minutes ago, tonyshouse said: tonytray ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWilts Posted October 1, 2021 Author Share Posted October 1, 2021 3 hours ago, tonyshouse said: tonytray ? He's serious. http://tonyshouse.readinguk.org/tonytray.pdf What a legend. Pardon my ignorance. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWilts Posted October 2, 2021 Author Share Posted October 2, 2021 (edited) 22 hours ago, tonyshouse said: tonytray Triggered an idea for an extension of that detail to protect the non-joisted part of the first floor void. In addition to polythene or similar to replace joist caps, drape another length of membrane across the top of the wall from one joist to its neighbour. Overhanging the inner leaf on both faces. Then after ceiling board and floor board installed, pull the overhangs in and tape to the respective boards, as well as to the airtight membrane or tape at the respective wall junctions. Treating the entire floor void as a quasi-joist. For those who are constrained to have no more than plasterboard on dabs. Edited October 2, 2021 by WWilts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epsilonGreedy Posted October 2, 2021 Share Posted October 2, 2021 On 30/09/2021 at 23:27, WWilts said: If not passable, what is the way to remedy work already done? Just pointing enough? A mechanical mortar gun which works like a giant mortar syringe is one possibility, trouble is these require a wet mix and the whole job becomes messy. The other option is to us a thin pointing trowel but this is a fiddly job on the vertical perps. On 30/09/2021 at 23:27, WWilts said: And how DO brickies get mortar in perpends? With my brickie team this was a 2-stage job. First is the usual extra 3 seconds a block to butter the end with mortar then the brickie's mate went around pointing up both sides of the block wall within the hour and filled in any voids. The cavity had a rougher finish but was still better than your example. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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