jamiehamy Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Hi all, Looking for some suggestions as to the best way to plasterboard the window reveals. As some will know, the window company screwed up the order and all the windows were 20mm too large, which has in turn messed up the detail at the reveals. Anyway - we are where we are. It's easier to show a pic - what would folks suggest is the best way to complete this detail? The brackets are a bit of a problem, more so because the windows are too big and sit closer than I want to the wall but as much because they interrupt the continuous surface which will warp the gyproc. My thinking was - 6mm ply screwed into the vertical reveal which, using packers, should give a level surface (or only ply the sections between the brackets), then screw the gyproc into that. Is there an option to partially 'dot and dab' the part closest to the window and screw the other side into the batten?? If so, what would I use to stick the gyproc to the insulation? All thoughts welcome! Thanks, Jamie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 First thought is why are the brackets not fixed? what holds the windows in? Funny enough this is a similar detail that that I have been working on recently. It's a bit different in my case as it's TF, but the window reveals are clad in Kingspan and the windows then fixed with brackets. The "complication" in my case was twofold, one the brackets were individually packed with little squares of plywood, so that left an uneven surface to fix plasterboard to. and secondly the screws through the brackets, the heads sat so proud of the bracket. My solution, was replace the individual packing pieces with a continuous sheet of ply on the inside of the window reveal. This then just leaves the fixing plates a little proud of the plywood and it's thickness is pretty insignificant. And to solve the screw issue, countersink the holes in the fixing plate and replace the screws. In my case I can fix with long plasterboard screws through the kingspan into the timber frame. I am not sure what you would screw into, so some form of adhesive might be the way to secure the window end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamiehamy Posted March 20, 2017 Author Share Posted March 20, 2017 Ah! Bad example! They are all screwed into the plastic on the sides bar that one and screwed directly into the concrete lintel at the top. On that side alone there are 5 brackets. It's seen 60mph winds this winter and never budged :-} I like the counter sinking to help bring the screw heads down. Once I've done that I'll put ply between the brackets screwed and adhered to the plastic then screw the gyproc into that. Any recommendations for ply to XPS? More to just help keep it together than the primary method of fixing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stones Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Jamie, Appreciate these are not the best of pictures (didn't take any specific snaps of this detail) but this is how our window reveals were finished: Battens were used on the inner face of the ICF block to square off the window opening. The windows themselves were fixed with straps (packed as required) off the timber formers which closed the opening in the ICF core. Lengths of batten were then cut and fitted (again, packed where required) between the straps so that there was a solid and level point of fixing at both ends of the reveal to screw the plasterboard onto. I would just adopt the same method but use the 6mm ply you have already identified. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamiehamy Posted March 20, 2017 Author Share Posted March 20, 2017 Just now, Stones said: Jamie, Appreciate these are not the best of pictures (didn't take any specific snaps of this detail) but this is how our window reveals were finished: Battens were used on the inner face of the ICF block to square off the window opening. The windows themselves were fixed with straps (packed as required) off the timber formers which closed the opening in the ICF core. Lengths of batten were then cut and fitted (again, packed where required) between the straps so that there was a solid and level point of fixing at both ends of the reveal to screw the plasterboard onto. I would just adopt the same method but use the 6mm ply you have already identified. Perfect - thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Good timing with this thread! Newbie question: why choose plasterboard instead of ply for the reveals? Every house I've lived in has used ply, I could go either way and am just curious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 11 hours ago, Crofter said: Good timing with this thread! Newbie question: why choose plasterboard instead of ply for the reveals? Every house I've lived in has used ply, I could go either way and am just curious. So you can plaster? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 19 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: So you can plaster? No... I consider it akin to Voodoo... but why would I need to? I don't see how it makes any difference what sheet material I use for the window reveal, other than PB is cheaper and easier to fill the screw heads. Or am I missing something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 You can't plaster directly on to timber . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamiehamy Posted March 21, 2017 Author Share Posted March 21, 2017 12 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: You can't plaster directly on to timber . But you can sand and paint I'm assuming? I mention this because for my curved wall sections I've got some 6mm flexible ply and proposing gluing this in place with some counter sunk screws filled and then painted. If that doesn't work I'll try get some suitable plasterboard but hadn't planned plastering the ply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 32 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: You can't plaster directly on to timber . Yes, but I wasn't going to. Maybe this comes down to the difference in practise up here- it's not usual to do a skim coat, you just tape and fill the plasterboard. So if that's good enough for the walls it's probably good enough for thr window reveals too. I wonder if this difference has anything to do with us using TF by default up here? Greater chance of movement so a skim coat might not like that?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 I've never heard of anyone anywhere filling and painting ply / osb TBH, regardless of location. How will you form the external corners of each window 'bay'? If you have PB on the face walls then how would you transition between the differing materials ? Skim / taping & filling is done countrywide, that's a discipline of its own right, and commonplace, so I fully understand that it can be done, just not over bare timber afaik. At the VERY least I would get some 6 or 9.5mm PB and get the ply covered, but in your instance I'd just pack out and PB first as last TBH. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 1 hour ago, jamiehamy said: But you can sand and paint I'm assuming? I mention this because for my curved wall sections I've got some 6mm flexible ply and proposing gluing this in place with some counter sunk screws filled and then painted. If that doesn't work I'll try get some suitable plasterboard but hadn't planned plastering the ply. The amount of time and effort that will go into that, for what I believe will be a far inferior finish vs PB, just isn't practical imo. The ply will have indentations where you've screwed it on the curve and PB just covers so well it's a no brainer for me. I think you'll put a lot of effort in and kick yourself afterwards with painting ply TBH. Plus if you've got a PB surface adjacent it'll stick out like a sore thumb. PB will give the clean sharp look your going for, ply won't. You might get away with bendy MDF but I wouldn't even quote to do that for someone as it'll be a can of worms that looks good one day and all cracks and opens up with time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 1 hour ago, Crofter said: I wonder if this difference has anything to do with us using TF by default up here? Greater chance of movement so a skim coat might not like that?? Last extension I did was TF and PB with a full skim coat throughout. Absolutely showroom finish with lots of praise from the customer. Even more praise and thanks from my decorator who had to make the existing house blend in, ( which was all 'taped & jointed' aka dry-lined filled and sanded ) where you could see EVERY board junction, EVERY door frame head, and was just dire in comparison. Difference with me is I'm mega OCD on the finish, as if the paint ain't looking a million dollars wtf was all the effort up until then for ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 21 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: I've never heard of anyone anywhere filling and painting ply / osb TBH, regardless of location. How will you form the external corners of each window 'bay'? If you have PB on the face walls then how would you transition between the differing materials ? Skim / taping & filling is done countrywide, that's a discipline of its own right, and commonplace, so I fully understand that it can be done, just not over bare timber afaik. At the VERY least I would get some 6 or 9.5mm PB and get the ply covered, but in your instance I'd just pack out and PB first as last TBH. Don't think anyone was talking about filling ply etc, maybe we're at cross purposes there. Standard detailing on every house I've lived in has been ply reveals, with an architrave surround to protect the external corner and make the transition to the PB wall. All wood surfaces varnished or painted, no attempt to pretend they are not wood. Nail heads visible but they are small lost head types. So, knowing no better, I had just assumed I would do the same on the new house- although maybe swap the ply for PB. Still assumed I would need the architrave. I guess the other option is to put a piece of external corner reinforcement in place but presumably that only works if there is going to be a skim coat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 2 hours ago, Crofter said: you just tape and fill the plasterboard. So if that's good enough for the walls it's probably good enough for thr window reveals too. I got a bit lost here . 1 hour ago, Crofter said: I had just assumed I would do the same on the new house- although maybe swap the ply for PB. Still assumed I would need the architrave. I guess the other option is to put a piece of external corner reinforcement in place but presumably that only works if there is going to be a skim coat? If your going to PB the walls and PB the reveals around the window, but you want to tape and fill / join ( what I would call dry line ) then you can buy this reinforced paper tape corner. Just cut to length and it 'snaps' to form a perfect edge which you then blend out with a quality bulk filler such as Gyproc Easi-fill. Hows that sound? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 Ah that looks very handy. All I'd seen previously was the expanded mesh stuff that's probably too bulky to hide behind a wee bit of filler. It should give a neater, crisper finish than using wooden trim. I'm not totally against getting a skim coat, btw, just haven't budgeted for it, so it will probably depend on the quotes and also how the walls look by the time I've finished with them- I might need to get a pro in to hide my dodgy handiwork! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 After all your hard work, and the fact it's timber frame, I'd deffo go for a skim coat as it'll be the icing on the cake. Nowt worse than seeing everything under the paint 'coming through'. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 I know what crofter means, all the reveals in the timber frame bungalow we just removed used ply with timber corners, very DIYable but I agree with Nick, plastered looks more professional. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 SWMBO is already making noises about us moving into the new house and renting out the old one instead... steady on boys I don't want to end up making it look *too* good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 Woodchip wallpaper is your friend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dudda Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 You can get really nice looking plywood window reveal that create a picture frame type effect around the window and I intend on doing something similar but with one layer of ply instead of three as shown in the example photos below. It will be more difficult than plasterboard and probably more expensive to achieve but I think it looks sharp. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 Need decent quality ply for that... normal stuff is full of voids which would detract from the look somewhat! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 This is how ours where done in oz. timber inside reveals was a finger jointed pine, with the architrave of your choice. I actually liked it compared to the standard plastered reveal. It had another benefit if fitting blinds it provided easy fixing points. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 The windows come with reveals pre fixed in oz and are put in before brickwork skin on 1st fix. Anyway i I don't think that ply is 3 layers. They're probably cleverly using some rips as an architrave. I agree looks cool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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