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Sloped drive/ gates job.


zoothorn

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Hi chaps-

 

I have a fairly basic job plan of 60/40 timber driveway gates to build- if I could ask advice about here. My drive has an annoying slope going -across- the gates though messing things up it seems.

 

The block wall over the road here gives idea of road slope. My drive flattens out a little, but still on the c*ck a bit at the gates area. Gates to open 'in' onto the drive. I'm just going for ~11sq" shallow-pointed-tip, tannalised pillars, decent but basic timber gates.

 

Thanks, Zooter 

 

 

22B97801-8738-4F2B-AEB4-0824FCD1EB59.jpeg

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22 hours ago, Onoff said:

Presume this is going to be a get out and open / close rather than motorised gate?


Hi Onoff. Yes cheap options is the idea.. would love motorised! But surely cost alot.

 

The odd hinges is interesting never seen that before. I'll look into it. Does look a bit weird though, & with two split 60/ 40 gates?

 

I was thinking the only option would likely be to flatten the front area, as the drive mostly seems flat, but then its the offset onto the road to consider. Get this wrong & you're stuffed.

 

 

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21 hours ago, markc said:

Rising gates work ok with actuator, just not the in ground type. Push/Pull actuators are fine with rose joint ends.


Hi markc.. rising gates, do you mean the rising hinge types like Onoff's?

 

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1 minute ago, zoothorn said:


Hi markc.. rising gates, do you mean the rising hinge types like Onoff's?

 

Yes thats the idea, If you have a local place that fabricates gates and railings etc they will be able to quickly knock up some rising hinges to suit your slope

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10 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Rising gate hinges are your answer - also know rising pin hinges

 

https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/rising-field-gate-hinge-set-600x90mm-galvanised-827710

 

 

 

 

 

 
Hi Peter. Ok thanks, will look into these: On face value Im wondering if getting two gates doing similarly each side, but perhaps slightly different rising angles, won't be a massive pain getting them to meet correctly. This is my concern with this idea.

 

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24 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

 
Hi Peter. Ok thanks, will look into these: On face value Im wondering if getting two gates doing similarly each side, but perhaps slightly different rising angles, won't be a massive pain getting them to meet correctly. This is my concern with this idea.

 

No problem getting them to meet regardless of the angle or length of gate etc. The fixing points to gate and posts are the same as ordinary hinges, its the hinge geometry that changes.

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I wouldn''t use wooden posts any more - they tend to rot too quickly.  Unless you use oak I guess.  I've used metal ones and not a lot different in price.  I will be long dead before they rot through (filling them with concrete also helps).

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The rising hinge concept is one you'll just have to get your head around ? it works, there's thousands like it. Example of powered. 

 

 

Having a mad idea here of a sliding gate on a slope. You manually pull it up slope to lock it. To open, a simple, powered remote control (could be battery, solar backed up etc). The remote operates a solenoid that releases a catch and the gate rolls opens under gravity. So you could open it by remote to drive in/out but would need to get out of the car to shut it. 

 

Maybe don't encourage me...

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On 09/07/2021 at 13:41, markc said:

No problem getting them to meet regardless of the angle or length of gate etc. The fixing points to gate and posts are the same as ordinary hinges, its the hinge geometry that changes.


Hi Markc,

 

I think I can get my head round the basics of how the gates hang from their posts, with these unusual hinges.. but what's holding me up, is trying to figure out the shape of the gates, relative to the ground, & to each other (being very differently shaped, due to the slope - across- both of them.

 

The strange hinge idea, relates to the pair of gates when closed, sitting level - across- both of them. But I have a slope. If this slope was perpendicular to those in the strange- hinge- examples, I could probably have cracked on.

 

Thanks, Zoot

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On 09/07/2021 at 20:30, CC45 said:

I wouldn''t use wooden posts any more - they tend to rot too quickly.  Unless you use oak I guess.  I've used metal ones and not a lot different in price.  I will be long dead before they rot through (filling them with concrete also helps).

Thanks, I'll look into the idea.. but I don't have too much choice out here, which might mean timber ones.

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On 09/07/2021 at 21:26, PeterW said:

I’d be looking at 75\25 on that size opening or even just one big field gate otherwise you’ll end up opening both to get the car out. 


Hi Peter, Im just back trying to figure a plan out. But Ill need to open both even 25/75 to get a car out. Plus the longer a gate is, the more problematic with regard to its shape, clashing with the ground or not fitting ' correctly' when closed with the other one.

 

It is not quite as straightforward as to just use these hinges. The gates shape (closed) , both lets just say a 60/40, always struck me as as much of the problem as clashing with the drive opening in (which the odd hinges can solve). 
 

Because both gates need a 'trapezoid' (or somesuch fancypants term for an oblongy not-a-rectangle) shape to them (thankfully only one lower side needing to be 'odd', the other three sides being a normal rectangle).. it really fugs up my tiny, birdlike-small, brain.

 

Whether Im on any track thinking this, or its a load of 'utter balls' I've no idea either!

 

thanks. Zoot

Edited by zoothorn
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I didn't know these existed, and it hurt my head for a while. I have a similar situation, but with normal hinges,  and the gate is made to just miss the slope. That then leaves a space for a small dog or child when shut.

These hinges would have been ideal.

Agreed re 2 parts: one to suit the normal vehicle and the other bolted in place, that can open for wide vehicles.

 

They do settle differentially but it only takes a turn of the nut on the long top bolt to adjust it either way.

 

I am confident that oak is traded between the South East and the 'wild West' and can come on the next wagon train.

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3 minutes ago, Roundtuit said:

I think most people would fit 'standard' gates, and accept that the gap underneath at one end is going to be greater than at the other.


Ah yes of course, & it's true Ive never seen gates with my 'weird' oblong idea, but with a pronounced slope offset, the one gate left high n dry (here lhs looking from drive pov) will look kindafunnylookin. If its a small 25, Id think very much so.

 

Im thinking this. And it might be as Ive been in the sun too long, yes. Either make new gates (from tannalised stuff which seems cheap but do they have 3x1 or whatever a gate is mostly made of?) shaped along btms to follow the drive slope (so the  H of the lhs gate is say a foot more than house- side upper slope side). Or rejig standard gates along their lower sides. Or do something else even more brilliant?

 

thx zh

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On 09/07/2021 at 20:37, Onoff said:

The rising hinge concept is one you'll just have to get your head around ? it works, there's thousands like it. Example of powered. 

 

 

Having a mad idea here of a sliding gate on a slope. You manually pull it up slope to lock it. To open, a simple, powered remote control (could be battery, solar backed up etc). The remote operates a solenoid that releases a catch and the gate rolls opens under gravity. So you could open it by remote to drive in/out but would need to get out of the car to shut it. 

 

Maybe don't encourage me...


I cant understand your idea as my gates couldnt roll up the hill though. Like the clip above (which does look peculiar I must say, perhaps not hugely so in palm beach fl there.. but rural stix wales?) my gates open in roughly ' up' along this axis too.

 

But they also have a slope perp to this, - across - both closed gates. Actually it's this slope which is the more problematic. i mean if its 45* slope.. then a pair of similar gates willnot be suitable. But 15*?

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Honestly, forget about the different slopes and geometry. Standard gates are cheaper etc. but if you want bespoke gates to fit the hole, be that 50/50 75/25 60/40 etc. then it really makes no difference to lining them up.

Measure and draw out the shape of the opening to work with the sloping floor. Split the gates where you want to split to be. 

Have the gates made to this design.

Get the gates and offer them upto the slope with required gap underneath, measure amount the hinges need to rise, get hinges made to this rise. 

Ive done hundreds of them in the past.

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What's the purpose of the gates?

 

If it's just for security of cars on the drive, how about rising bollards instead of gates? But get them with lights on, I hear delivery drivers tend not to notice them.

 

If it's to enclose dogs, then you do need a gate with a bottom edge that is parallel to the lateral slope. Any gate hung from the higher side, that has a sloping lower edge (so is taller as you move away from the gate post), is going to exaggerate how much rise is needed in order for it to clear the fore-aft slope as it opens.

 

The rise is created by leaning the hinge axis away from vertical, so that the lower hinge is further up the slope. In effect you set the hinge axis to be perpendicular to the slope rather than vertical. But with the gate vertical when closed, you have to offset the lower hinge away from the bottom of the gate. That offset, pushes the bottom of the gate away from the gatepost as it opens. The more rise you need the greater the offset and more peculiar they look when open.

 

If you have to have a sloping lower edge to your gate, then I'd try to split the gates in such away that both gates need the same rise. It will mean a longer gate on the lower gate post, but to work out the ideal ratio you'll need to draw it out and know the slope angles. At least with the same rise either side the lower hinge offset will be the same and they will look more similar when open.

 

If you are not powering the gates, I believe you will find that they are self-closing - if the rise is sufficient to overcome the friction. They'll need to be opened over 90 degrees, or have a latch to secure them, to stop them from closing on you. I guess a latch is safest as it stops the wind from just pushing it over-centre so they start to close.

 

 

Edited by IanR
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