Sloped drive/ gates job.

[zoothorn]

On 20/07/2021 at 10:27, markc said:

If gates will only open one way then you can mount hinges on the inside or outside face to save space. If gates will swing either way then allow approx. 3 inches space between gate and post for the hinge

Ah yes I get it, good point markc. They only need to open inwards onto drive. Ok now to choose my posts & view some clips of building them into the ground.

 

I have cement & sand..  I guess that's the basis of what's needed-?

 

thanks zh.

[zoothorn]

@joe90 Hi Joe, can I ask your opinion (or anyone's)..

 

I rather like the " estate" type 5 bar softwood gates, IE having an extra high bit more timber, on hinge side.. sort of a bit posher to std ones.
 

Ideally a pair (Im now going 4 ft / 8 ft, like a 40/ 60 split or so).. but I need the smaller 4 ft one to be a standard style, without this added timber bit ( bc I wanna put my usa style postbox just beyond this LHS gate, so postie can put post in, without actually coming on my drive up to front door.. bc he's recently been foul to me, yet another nationalist). So if I had this added posh estate added bit.. it prevents him leaning over & popping post in box.

 

Would having the gates slightly different styles.. be weird/ not a good plan do you think?

 

Any idea wft Im talking about? Haha. Thx Zoot

[markc]

Nothing wrong with having the extra bit on one as long as the rails match and line up on both gates. The `extra bit` is there to assist with holding wide gates up and square, on a short gate it would look out of place

[joe90]

3 hours ago, markc said:

Nothing wrong with having the extra bit on one as long as the rails match and line up on both gates. The `extra bit` is there to assist with holding wide gates up and square, on a short gate it would look out of place

I agree , yes it would look fine.

[PeterW]

On 21/07/2021 at 14:55, zoothorn said:

I have cement & sand..  I guess that's the basis of what's needed-?

 

Dig the smallest hole possible to get the post in, and lean it back by about 10mm at the top on a 4ft post. Then pack the front with an offcut of brick or tile and then back fill with a semi- dry mix of 2 sand, 2 small gravel and 1 cement and ram it in, building up all round. Add a little bit of water and leave it for 24 hours. 
 

Then come back and hang the gates ..!

[zoothorn]

9 hours ago, markc said:

Nothing wrong with having the extra bit on one as long as the rails match and line up on both gates. The `extra bit` is there to assist with holding wide gates up and square, on a short gate it would look out of place

Yup that makes sense markc.. I like the functional look of these. the whole hanging structure especially the bigger 8 ft gates, seems to make sense with the additional bracing. But £180 + vat vs ££130. And I cant get a 4ft normal gate, only 3ft. Limited to 2 places here. Annoying. Gotta trawl www but no way theyd deliver out here, unless at big cost.

 

Damn.. I need to crack on with this job too.

[zoothorn]

4 hours ago, PeterW said:

Dig the smallest hole possible to get the post in, and lean it back by about 10mm at the top on a 4ft post. Then pack the front with an offcut of brick or tile and then back fill with a semi- dry mix of 2 sand, 2 small gravel and 1 cement and ram it in, building up all round. Add a little bit of water and leave it for 24 hours. 
 

Then come back and hang the gates ..!

Hi Peter. Omg you make it sound so simple! I just know it aint gonna be.

 

But thanks that outline gives me some impetus, I've seen some youtube clips in preparation too.. tho postcrete seems always used. But I got to £save every bean if the gates are gonna be an extra £100 t9 what I thought.
 

Co's are hiking prices with this brexit excuse it see s to me: a sheet of birch ply for my work, was £42 steady for 2 yrs.. just jumped to £86. Really hitting me hard these current prices.

[zoothorn]

6 hours ago, joe90 said:

I agree , yes it would look fine.

Yes I agree too, a good plan.. so an estate gate on the 8 ft, & standard on the 4 ft then, if I can find a 4 ft to match that is round here. This way I can get my postbox in the spot I'd planned for it too.

[zoothorn]

On 29/07/2021 at 15:21, markc said:

Nothing wrong with having the extra bit on one as long as the rails match and line up on both gates. The `extra bit` is there to assist with holding wide gates up and square, on a short gate it would look out of place

Hi markc. Turns out timber prices are rocketing, ruling out my idea for a posh 8 ft gate now ( 215 vs 110 for std one). Damn.

 

Ok so for a (standard) 5 bar, 8ft softwood gate.. I have 2 post options, 6x6"or 7x7" ( both 7ft long). The nice shallow-pointed topped, square softwood post types. Or theres an 8x8" ( 8 ft) but I presume is overkill.

 

I guess the idea is to have matching size posts, so the Q is whether 6x6 is sufficient to hang an 8ft gate from.
 

And Is the general idea being 7ft long, to sit them in ground 3ft?

 

thx zh

[markc]

Hi @zoothorn 6x6 is more than enough for your needs. Most gate problems are due to the way the posts are set as opposed to their size.

 

[zoothorn]

3 hours ago, markc said:

Hi @zoothorn 6x6 is more than enough for your needs. Most gate problems are due to the way the posts are set as opposed to their size.

 

Great.. Thank goodness i dont have to go 8 x8! Ok so will buy my 2 posts tmrw. Progress!
 

Mind you then I got a helluva job hand digging these holes.. likely slate chunks & roots galore. Thx zh

[zoothorn]

I think Im gonna go postcrete... dont need any added graft after digging these holes. Is that the sensible idea?

[zoothorn]

Chaps if you could help. 
 

Im back grappling with the problem, if it is a problem, of the sloped drive. The slope across the gate. On my higher side, the longer 8' gate will hang from the post, so here the post can go into ground the correct depth. I can effectively do this. But I need to start from the other post 1st.. problem arises:

 

So this lower side, with the gap that will have to be below the shorter 4' gate, the post it hangs from of course will have to be (approximately) 8" set higher. Because of the slope, in order to get the gates level. The gap underneath is no concern at this juncture.

 

What is troubling me is therefore, the depth of this post.. bc it'll have to be set into the ground 8" less. Now, I assume if these 6 x6" width shallow- pointy- topped posts, at 7ft long, will need to go into the ground 3ft. So my higher gate post, will therefore be 8" less.

 

From my pov, I can see at least that this higher gate is the smaller one/ less weight upon this post. But even so, will it being set only 2ft 4" into the ground.

 

Does anyone have any idea what Im talking about? Thanks, zh

[zoothorn]

Diagram. Its the RHS post looking at it here, I need to start from.. because this gate is the most critical to position right up flat to the perpendicular hedge behind it.

 

Thanks, zh

 

 

[zoothorn]

@joe90 or @markc Hi chaps, I wonder if you could voice an opinion.

 

I was just about to fly into town to get my posts, crack on start digging... but this connundrum occured to me, so I'm stuck not knowing how to proceed. IE do I need completely different posts? Or is my RHS one ok set in so 'shallow'?

 

thanks zoot.

[markc]

2 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

@joe90 or @markc Hi chaps, I wonder if you could voice an opinion.

 

I was just about to fly into town to get my posts, crack on start digging... but this connundrum occured to me, so I'm stuck not knowing how to proceed. IE do I need completely different posts? Or is my RHS one ok set in so 'shallow'?

 

thanks zoot.

Hi ya mate, how shallow is shallow?

as it’s the small gate you don’t need a lot of depth as long as the ground I’d hard which I believe you mentioned digging through slate which would be good

[joe90]

As the shorter gate is fixed to the shallower post I do not think it’s a problem, just make sure you back fill with postcrete or something very solid. ?

[zoothorn]

11 minutes ago, joe90 said:

As the shorter gate is fixed to the shallower post I do not think it’s a problem, just make sure you back fill with postcrete or something very solid. ?

Great, was hoping you'd say this or so.. panic over. Maybe I can set both post tip tops a few inches lower than usual, equal to each other I assume is 'correct', pinching every inch depth possible as it were.

 

11 minutes ago, markc said:

Hi ya mate, how shallow is shallow?

as it’s the small gate you don’t need a lot of depth as long as the ground I’d hard which I believe you mentioned digging through slate which would be good

Hi markc, shallow.. well I guess 8" less set into ground than my ok LHS post. Just done a diagram before / above.

 

I hope to fk I dont hit slate!! Ill have to get a pro in to help if so. It is clay tho.. so possibly helps solidity on this post, if not my dreaded dig me 'ole jobs.

 

Thanks chaps, zh

[zoothorn]

Another Q before I start chaps. @Onoff perhaps as its woodwork. Ok my supplier will take 2 weeks to get the 4 ft gate/ not in stock. But has the posts. So can I crack on is the Q..?

 

Ive watched clips of the basics, & the consensus seems to be drill the hardware onto gates and posts.. before.. setting the posts in. I can see the logic, negating pressure drilling into post once set in. Me, I'll likely need to really lean in as I dont have optimum bits.
 

Another clip showed an school chap hand drilling the holes once post was in, but little pressure pushing in bc of his auger (hand held drill whatever its called). Which I dont have. 
 

So is it imperative to have the post drilled before setting in the ground considering I only have a 'leccy hand drill? Thx zh

Edited August 3, 2021 by zoothorn

[joe90]

7 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

So is it imperative to have the post drilled before setting in the ground considering I only have a 'leccy hand drill? Thx zh

I think not, just makes it harder to get the post in the right place, just buy a new flat bit to drill the holes, only a fiver https://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-flat-wood-drill-bit-25-x-150mm/6788v

 

or a longer one https://www.screwfix.com/p/flat-wood-drill-bit-25-x-300mm/3152v

[zoothorn]

1 minute ago, joe90 said:

I think not, just makes it harder to get the post in the right place, just buy a new flat bit to drill the holes, only a fiver https://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-flat-wood-drill-bit-25-x-150mm/6788v

 

or a longer one https://www.screwfix.com/p/flat-wood-drill-bit-25-x-300mm/3152v

Ok good. Actually Id have thought it would be alot harder to get the holes accurately placed heightwise, if done before posts set in. I mean fine if youve one gate.. but if a pair of gates I mean.

 

Ok so I got to now find clips of how to dig me holes! Would you have an idea of how much postcrete I need per hole? I guess that depends on what size I dig, but assuming I dig only what is required as a minimum, as Its gonna be a ball ache of a job.

 

Cheers Joe.

[joe90]

17 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

as Its gonna be a ball ache of a job.

You got that right, I have a post spade (narrow long spade fir digging post holes),https://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck-drainage-shovel/4405k

 

also a “bar” (long metal bar with flattened end) which is good fir prising  out stones etc. Remember the bigger the hole the more postcrete you will need. You can always put gravel in the postcrete to make it go further.

 

[zoothorn]

2 hours ago, joe90 said:

You got that right, I have a post spade (narrow long spade fir digging post holes),https://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck-drainage-shovel/4405k

 

also a “bar” (long metal bar with flattened end) which is good fir prising  out stones etc. Remember the bigger the hole the more postcrete you will need. You can always put gravel in the postcrete to make it go further.

 

Yup I have seen these Joe, but have a narrow'ish gardening spade which will have to do, Im seriously up against it £wise nowadays. I do have a bar pointy one end small flat t'other end: invaluable for planting stuff.

 

Ok so got me posts, 2x 20kg postcrete/ can get another if. So is the idea dig whatever D the 1st RHS (diagram) post is to go, 2ft 4" in my case, & for a 6x6" post..  what 12" W?

 

1st I have to determine how much the gate sits away from the posts, in order to position the 1st post (as well as the 2nd). As I haven't got my gates yet, likely dropped off together in 2 weeks or so when the 4ft one's in. I mean an average gap, not having the fixings yet. If that's possible.
 

Also got to factor in a bit of leeway for adjustment: we get huge timber swelling here jamming doors galore: maybe a good 1cm additional room to the posts each side. I will be buying adjustable fixings, for both gates, knowing this swell issue here.

 

thanks, zoot.

[Onoff]

I'd get the gates before fitting the posts.

[zoothorn]

1 minute ago, Onoff said:

I'd get the gates before fitting the posts.

Hi Onoff,

 

I know this is the ideal way, but I dont have the luxury/ I just cant wait 3 weeks, maybe 6 weeks in current fiasco for the small gate. I have to crack on, ( & I can in meantime measure the 8ft one at the place so this is as good as having it here). 
 

My idea was to just get the 1st post in.. this will take me 2 days min. Then figure out, if possible, if I can get post 2 in too this week:

 

As gates are only opening inwards, Ive got to determine where the hinges go/ which side of post. If sat like my diagram, it means the posts are further apart, than if the hinges are on the 'inside face' of the posts. Im not sure which idea is 'correct'.

 

thanks. Zoot