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Posted

 Hiya, 

 

We (well,  I!) am planning a curved section on an opening in the house. I remember on ebuild a member did this but I can't see the pics. It was his/her type of curved wall I want to do. Iirc the sole plate and wall plates were cut from osb and layered,  with 4x2 all the way round. I can't remember how the plaster was moulded - was it cut on one side various times?

I've been online and want to avoid wet plasterboard if possible! 

 

Thanks,  J

  

Posted

V-Cut make 12.5mm flexible plasterboard, no idea how much it costs, though.  The 6mm stuff you fit as two layers, from what I remember.  I can't remember who it was did this, but do recall that it looked pretty good when it was finished.

Posted

An office I used to work in had this done, a curve around a half landing.

 

A studwork frame was put up, in this case with steel studwork.  Sheets of standard plasterboard were left outside leaning against a wall for a few days and watered regularly, and over the course of a few days took on a curve. It was then fitted to the wall while still damp and pliable enough to take the curve they wanted, then left to dry out and skimmed.
 

Posted
2 minutes ago, ProDave said:

An office I used to work in had this done, a curve around a half landing.

 

A studwork frame was put up, in this case with steel studwork.  Sheets of standard plasterboard were left outside leaning against a wall for a few days and watered regularly, and over the course of a few days took on a curve. It was then fitted to the wall while still damp and pliable enough to take the curve they wanted, then left to dry out and skimmed.
 

 

 

That sounds like a very pragmatic way to tackle this!

 

If you could leave the curved wall frames outside you might be able to use them as a mould to get the right curve, but I suspect you don't need to be super accurate, as there will always be a degree of flexibility to play with.

Posted

I also recall they didn't just screw them in place immediately, that would just have burst the screws through wet PB if it was not a tight fit. Rather they wedged it in place with battens and props to let it mould to the shape of the curve before finally screwing  it once they were happy it had formed.

 

Yes if you could replicate the curve outside and perhaps leave it lying flat on said curved former it might just curl itself into a perfect fit and be easier.
 

Posted
4 minutes ago, ProDave said:

I also recall they didn't just screw them in place immediately, that would just have burst the screws through wet PB if it was not a tight fit. Rather they wedged it in place with battens and props to let it mould to the shape of the curve before finally screwing  it once they were happy it had formed.

 

 

That's just what I was about to ask! 

Posted (edited)

I would only need two boards (or three in case of error). 

 

Hmm,  do I try get hold of three sheets or try the wetting method... Maybe the latter and see how it goes. 

Edited by jamiehamy
Posted (edited)

3mm (or 5mm) plywood would also be suitable, depending on your radius.


And there would perhaps be less time spent about bending it etc.

Edited by Ferdinand
Posted

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Did this to get a BFO extractor in below pozi-joists. 9mm PB wetted both sides 5 mins before fitting. Internal radius done in 4 pieces. 

 

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IMG_1316.thumb.JPG.94a0aab76d4d2a5d9bc49aa3ccd5d80d.JPG

 

This was in the ensuite upstairs. Formed with 4x2" and double boarded with 4mm ply. I soaked the ply ( dripping wet ) for a couple of hours and then rolled the 2 sheets up then ratchet strapped them overnight to dry. Straps came off and they retained about 50% of the curve so happy days. 

The PB was special order 6mm and that was wetted both sides and left to stand up against the wall, getting further wetted by brush where I wanted the radius, throughout the day. Just wet it and push against it, leave for an hour and repeat. The weight of the board pushes down and helps. Prop the top of the PB with a dead man ( timber T piece ) so it can't fall over ;)

Easier to do than most think. ?

  • Like 5
Posted

Only gripe I had with flexi MDF was getting a fixing in it as screws just blast through it and you get very little purchase. I ended up using my air stapler in the end but it was a curved bath for a display in a bathroom showroom so didn't really have to 'work'. I wouldn't use 'bendy' MDF in a customers house TBH. 

Posted
21 hours ago, ProDave said:

 Sheets of standard plasterboard were left outside leaning against a wall for a few days and watered regularly

 

21 hours ago, JSHarris said:

That sounds like a very pragmatic way to tackle this!

Could try a wall paper steamer to get some moisture in.

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