Not really ready for gates just yet but need to sort this out soon as possible, we’re  about to back fill the service trench but I need to sort my gate pillar foundations.

As you can see from the pictures it’s directly on top of the services, will we be ok going over the top of these ? If so can you recommend best way to back fill over ducting when its in. 

There is a drain on the other side which will run under the pillar I think it’s about 3” down, will we be ok to go over this too?

Gate pillars will be 2/3 bricks wide and 6” or so in height with electric  wooden gates , the span between pillars will be approximately 3m.

Regards.  James

When you say "foundations"...if swinging gate leaves then you must surely be having a post into the ground?

 

My (sliding) gate pillar foundations are 1m deep rounds dug with a PTO driven auger on the back of a tractor. The running base and base for the piers I then cast on top. There's a 4x4 steel up the centre of each column. All my gate side loads transmit to the steel post not the brick column.

 

 

 

 

 

Should look nice if ever I finish it!

Mine is a sliding gate had a trench about 300 square 1.8 long with 2 further holes. The steel was like an rsj goal post buried in concrete. If op is having swinging gates I think you'd need steel post buried in foundation quite deep to take the weight. Bricks built around this. 

Your founds want to be as deep as possible and it doesn’t look like on the right side over the services you will have that opportunity. Other option is to frame the opening either with steel as per @Oz07 suggestion or create a solid “U” from rebar and framed concrete that runs up the inside of the pillar. 
 

2 bricks is about the minimum you can make a pillar - that being 2 on each side - 2 1/2 or 3 is better and also would allow you more reinforcing. Don’t underestimate the weight of gates pulling downward and twisting a post !

I have seen a 450x450 brick pillar snap clean off at ground level when the gate swung in a gust of wind,

I think you need to re think this and look at gate type and location 

steel post in the centre of the pillars concreted into the foundation at least 600 into the ground, and if ground is loose through excavation for services then a lot further. 

Metal gates will be better for having far less wind resistance.  Not good for privacy though.

Also options such as hit and miss to give wind permeability. 

 

(And it doesn't necessarily have to be a huge construction like @Onoff's - that is to keep him in.)

Be very aware as to the legal safety requirements for powered opening gates that came from some fatal accidents over the last few years. Even more reason to comply you could argue with "open" style gates but applicable to all. Even huge constructions like mine! ?

 

https://www.easygatesdirect.co.uk/store/gate-safety-guide/gate-safety-legislation

I did mull planting a living hedge on my sliding gate...

This single sliding gate is 16ft long. I an going to have to redesign the catch due to the wind. Do not underestimate the power of mother nature. 

Mine is 4.5m and open with vertical bars, the wind still moves it!

I'm lucky in that if the wind comes up the valley it hits the gate edge on. Pretty impossible for the wind to hit the gate face on from either side due to the valley walls.

Thanks for all your replies, looks like we’ll have to rethink the wooden gates and go for metal. We have quite a long drive so privacy isn’t to much of an issue.If we are to concrete over the services and drain for the pillars is there anything we should do above the ducting and drain, maybe some sort of bridging to transfer weight?

Regards.  James

Hi

Hoping to get trench hug very soon for the services from boundary boxes to house. I will require cables to power electric gates at some point, would it be ok to power gates direct from boundary box or will I have to run a cable in trench from consumer unit in house?

Regards. James

 

What’s inside the boundary box?

And best make sure the metal gates aren’t fed from a PME supply

 

 

 

@TonyT 

At the moment its just the mains feed from the road capped of, wasn't going to get a meter until ready which could be some time don't want to start paying a standing charge or have council banging on door for cash.Do you think it would be ok maybe some sort of small consumer unit and short cable feed to gates other than that its 70m from house , not sure what PME supply is.

Regards  James

 

Your not meant to put your own equipment in the same meter box enclosure where the DNO have their meter, however you will be having a switchfuse like a Wylex KMF unit to protect your sub main back to the house.

 

so you could just install a small consumer unit and split the rails.

 

PME is a type of earthing arrangement that’s not great for hot tubs, EV’s and chunks of metal with electrical supplies that you can touch the general mass of earth at the same time.

@TonyT

I'll price up for 70m swa 3 core as an option but when I get the electrician round I'll see if he's prepared to install a small consumer unit and split the rails like suggested.

This PME earthing arrangement is it something there likely to give me or can I request a different arrangement, if so which should I go for.

Regards  James

Just get 2core as you will be exporting the PME earth (take a picture of the electricity cut out for us to see to confirm )

 

bash in a local earth rod next to the gates and connect a 10mm earth from the rod to the gate electrics, isolator etc.

 

 

Edited June 11, 20215 yr by TonyT

@TonyT here’s the electric meter box as requested. Sorry I didn’t reply sooner been busy getting married.

 

Congratulations @James94

@patp Thank you

18 hours ago, James94 said:

Sorry I didn’t reply sooner been busy getting married.

 

Congratulations!

18 hours ago, James94 said:

Sorry I didn’t reply sooner been busy getting married.

 

Congrats!

 

If you think you were busy getting married just wait until you are married.

 

Have you got your 'to do' list yet