Walk on glazing leak

[Pocster]

45 minutes ago, joe90 said:

My vote is the gutter roofing sealant as it’s made fir “outdoor wet stuff” that deals with rainwater.

Ordered! ?

[Gone West]

I would try a temporary solution first rather than gunging up the gap and then not being able to remove it. I would use a round EPDM foam strip that will squash into an uneven gap and then try the hose on it.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223789673562

[joe90]

8 minutes ago, PeterStarck said:

I would try a temporary solution first rather than gunging up the gap and then not being able to remove it. I would use a round EPDM foam strip that will squash into an uneven gap and then try the hose on it.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223789673562

yes, good idea as your (hopefully) only stopping “splashing”. If it works you could always use the sealer over the top afterwards (if you want).

[Onoff]

How wide is this gap? Compriband?

[Oz07]

If it is deffo getting in under there because of a gap in silicone could you 're seal from underneath with a 90 nozzle or whatever then get some metal skirts made to introduce a wider drip. These could overlay the glass by 20mm and cover that black edge. I hope that black isn't the glazing compound uv light breaks it down

[Pocster]

19 minutes ago, PeterStarck said:

I would try a temporary solution first rather than gunging up the gap and then not being able to remove it. I would use a round EPDM foam strip that will squash into an uneven gap and then try the hose on it.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223789673562

What a bloody good idea ? ordered !

[Onoff]

I don't like that mitred joint in the felt where the little plant is growing by the corner. Is that the corner where the leak is?

 

Nothing lost going over those joints with some clear CT1 and rubbing it in well. 

 

 

I'd be saying f*** it and doing this then taking the excess off with a Fugi tool.

 

[Pocster]

9 minutes ago, Onoff said:

How wide is this gap? Compriband?

3mm maybe 5mm 

[Pocster]

9 minutes ago, Oz07 said:

If it is deffo getting in under there because of a gap in silicone could you 're seal from underneath with a 90 nozzle or whatever then get some metal skirts made to introduce a wider drip. These could overlay the glass by 20mm and cover that black edge. I hope that black isn't the glazing compound uv light breaks it down

Another good plan . The black is structural silicone as recommended by the glazing firm .

[Pocster]

2 minutes ago, Onoff said:

I don't like that mitred joint in the felt where the little plant is growing by the corner. Is that the corner where the leak is?

 

Nothing lost going over those joints with some clear CT1 and rubbing it in well. 

 

 

I'd be saying f*** it and doing this then taking the excess off with a Fugi tool.

 

Yeah - it’s also a good plan 

Remember the felt is just a protective layer . The firm who did the roof properly said I didn’t need it . It’s just to protect the bituminous layer . But is ct1 really that good outdoors in all weathers forever ??

[Pocster]

Thanks to everyone for really good input !

 

So first will try simply the foam strip jammed up under the lip .

 

I’ll then stick the hose facing at it and blast it . Be nice if it worked .

 

Underground houses are (expletive deleted)ing dogs when your architect doesn’t know and the ‘professional roofers’ do the worst job you’ve ever seen . ?

[Onoff]

12 minutes ago, pocster said:

Yeah - it’s also a good plan 

Remember the felt is just a protective layer . The firm who did the roof properly said I didn’t need it . It’s just to protect the bituminous layer . But is ct1 really that good outdoors in all weathers forever ??

 

Dow Corning 791 & 795 are the weapons of choice on most commercial curtain walling I see. 

[Gav_P]

Can you get a camera or mirror under the lip and see if you can spot the offending area? If you know for sure how the water is getting through then you can decide the best way how to tackle it. 
 

or even a cheap endoscope off Amazon?

Edited November 20, 2020 by Gav_P

[Pocster]

11 minutes ago, Gav_P said:

Can you get a camera or mirror under the lip and see if you can spot the offending area? If you know for sure how the water is getting through then you can decide the best way how to tackle it. 
 

or even a cheap endoscope off Amazon?

It’s tight - maybe only 3mm 

[Pocster]

1 hour ago, pocster said:

Yeah - it’s also a good plan 

Remember the felt is just a protective layer . The firm who did the roof properly said I didn’t need it . It’s just to protect the bituminous layer . But is ct1 really that good outdoors in all weathers forever ??

Actually it’s the other corner - typically!!

[Gav_P]

2 minutes ago, pocster said:

It’s tight - maybe only 3mm 

Bugger. 

[Onoff]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Expanding-foam-tape-dark-weathertightness/dp/B01CGBF5WS

[Onoff]

Tbh Compriband and Illbruck are the names to conjure with for expanding tape. 

Edited November 20, 2020 by Onoff

[Cpd]

a possible foam option. 
 

https://www.dortechdirect.co.uk/tremco-compriband-tp600-3mm-7mm-gap-size.html
 

[joe90]

I used this around my windows when fitting them but it expands fast, even if kept cool (fridge) but it’s difficult to get in a small gap.

[Cpd]

That’s a non starter then on that product, well done @joe90 fir spotting my dodgy internet grab..... 

[joe90]

3 minutes ago, Cpd said:

dodgy

No mate, not dodgy just not suitable fir this problem. IMO.

[Big Jimbo]

I think that one of the things that this sort of problem tells us is the importance of how high upstands, and things like lead flashing need to be done right. When extending existing properties etc. I can't count how many rear extensions i have done over the years at the back of my houses. I have never taken out the back wall in order to put in a cavity tray, yet when building we would always stick them in above windows etc. That's why when say, cutting in a flashing to dress down on to a single story flat roof extension, it so important to not skimp of the height. (ie mininum 150mm above roof surface) upstands for roof windows etc need similar consideration, damp proof courses to ground level etc. It is surprising how high water can bounce, or track upwards. Just my morning thoughts while i have a cup of tea. Hope you get it bodge sorted Pocster mate.

[scottishjohn]

read some -but not all of above 

this reminds me of fixing leaks on cars --water leaks can be a real pain to find exactly where its getting in ,cos where it shows can be a long  way from actual leak from outside 

Ok 

your T shaped frame 

do you know for certain if its coming from the top lip or the bottom lip

 can you  remove the actual glass bit ?

 

if you can then get some sikaflex --same stuff as they stick car windscreens in with 

clean and dry glass and frame -bead of sikaflexex --drop it in #

there will be no need for fixing of nay type once its set 

 

the down side maybe is you will never be able to remove it once its set 

 

 

 

you could same with the bottom lip 

all depends how easy it is to remove --but doing this will be a 100%  fix for ever 

its basically same stuff as they make glass fish tanks with --but black 

 If you don,t mind the colour I would then tip a tin of aquaseal (silver stuff) that reflects the sun  and just a new cheap floor brush and push it around the roof to spread it out  and fill the fbad  felt joints -- --good dry day and its done 

 or go old school and a tar boiler and pour it on when its liquid--its what they did  with my petrol station concrete roof(bison beams -to make it burgular proof ) -to make it water tight --its flat --never leaks and melts in summer and self heals any cracks -

I have done that every 5 years on my flat felt garage roof --still perfect 25 years on

 

[Declan52]

1 hour ago, scottishjohn said:

read some -but not all of above 

this reminds me of fixing leaks on cars --water leaks can be a real pain to find exactly where its getting in ,cos where it shows can be a long  way from actual leak from outside 

Ok 

your T shaped frame 

do you know for certain if its coming from the top lip or the bottom lip

 can you  remove the actual glass bit ?

 

if you can then get some sikaflex --same stuff as they stick car windscreens in with 

clean and dry glass and frame -bead of sikaflexex --drop it in #

there will be no need for fixing of nay type once its set 

 

the down side maybe is you will never be able to remove it once its set 

 

 

 

you could same with the bottom lip 

all depends how easy it is to remove --but doing this will be a 100%  fix for ever 

its basically same stuff as they make glass fish tanks with --but black 

 If you don,t mind the colour I would then tip a tin of aquaseal (silver stuff) that reflects the sun  and just a new cheap floor brush and push it around the roof to spread it out  and fill the fbad  felt joints -- --good dry day and its done 

 or go old school and a tar boiler and pour it on when its liquid--its what they did  with my petrol station concrete roof(bison beams -to make it burgular proof ) -to make it water tight --its flat --never leaks and melts in summer and self heals any cracks -

I have done that every 5 years on my flat felt garage roof --still perfect 25 years on

 

My bro in law bought a brand new Peugeot 308 with the full sun roof that leaked from day 1. They had it back numerous times trying to find the leak with the full glass roof removed and resealed 3 times. Eventually managed to get it sorted.