Pocster Posted November 20, 2020 Author Posted November 20, 2020 On 20/11/2020 at 15:55, joe90 said: My vote is the gutter roofing sealant as it’s made fir “outdoor wet stuff” that deals with rainwater. Expand Ordered! ? 1
Gone West Posted November 20, 2020 Posted November 20, 2020 I would try a temporary solution first rather than gunging up the gap and then not being able to remove it. I would use a round EPDM foam strip that will squash into an uneven gap and then try the hose on it. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223789673562 2 1
joe90 Posted November 20, 2020 Posted November 20, 2020 On 20/11/2020 at 16:51, PeterStarck said: I would try a temporary solution first rather than gunging up the gap and then not being able to remove it. I would use a round EPDM foam strip that will squash into an uneven gap and then try the hose on it. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223789673562 Expand yes, good idea as your (hopefully) only stopping “splashing”. If it works you could always use the sealer over the top afterwards (if you want). 2
Oz07 Posted November 20, 2020 Posted November 20, 2020 If it is deffo getting in under there because of a gap in silicone could you 're seal from underneath with a 90 nozzle or whatever then get some metal skirts made to introduce a wider drip. These could overlay the glass by 20mm and cover that black edge. I hope that black isn't the glazing compound uv light breaks it down 1
Pocster Posted November 20, 2020 Author Posted November 20, 2020 On 20/11/2020 at 16:51, PeterStarck said: I would try a temporary solution first rather than gunging up the gap and then not being able to remove it. I would use a round EPDM foam strip that will squash into an uneven gap and then try the hose on it. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223789673562 Expand What a bloody good idea ? ordered ! 1
Onoff Posted November 20, 2020 Posted November 20, 2020 I don't like that mitred joint in the felt where the little plant is growing by the corner. Is that the corner where the leak is? Nothing lost going over those joints with some clear CT1 and rubbing it in well. I'd be saying f*** it and doing this then taking the excess off with a Fugi tool. 1
Pocster Posted November 20, 2020 Author Posted November 20, 2020 On 20/11/2020 at 17:03, Onoff said: How wide is this gap? Compriband? Expand 3mm maybe 5mm
Pocster Posted November 20, 2020 Author Posted November 20, 2020 On 20/11/2020 at 17:03, Oz07 said: If it is deffo getting in under there because of a gap in silicone could you 're seal from underneath with a 90 nozzle or whatever then get some metal skirts made to introduce a wider drip. These could overlay the glass by 20mm and cover that black edge. I hope that black isn't the glazing compound uv light breaks it down Expand Another good plan . The black is structural silicone as recommended by the glazing firm .
Pocster Posted November 20, 2020 Author Posted November 20, 2020 On 20/11/2020 at 17:11, Onoff said: I don't like that mitred joint in the felt where the little plant is growing by the corner. Is that the corner where the leak is? Nothing lost going over those joints with some clear CT1 and rubbing it in well. I'd be saying f*** it and doing this then taking the excess off with a Fugi tool. Expand Yeah - it’s also a good plan Remember the felt is just a protective layer . The firm who did the roof properly said I didn’t need it . It’s just to protect the bituminous layer . But is ct1 really that good outdoors in all weathers forever ??
Pocster Posted November 20, 2020 Author Posted November 20, 2020 Thanks to everyone for really good input ! So first will try simply the foam strip jammed up under the lip . I’ll then stick the hose facing at it and blast it . Be nice if it worked . Underground houses are (expletive deleted)ing dogs when your architect doesn’t know and the ‘professional roofers’ do the worst job you’ve ever seen . ? 1
Onoff Posted November 20, 2020 Posted November 20, 2020 On 20/11/2020 at 17:15, pocster said: Yeah - it’s also a good plan Remember the felt is just a protective layer . The firm who did the roof properly said I didn’t need it . It’s just to protect the bituminous layer . But is ct1 really that good outdoors in all weathers forever ?? Expand Dow Corning 791 & 795 are the weapons of choice on most commercial curtain walling I see. 1
Gav_P Posted November 20, 2020 Posted November 20, 2020 (edited) Can you get a camera or mirror under the lip and see if you can spot the offending area? If you know for sure how the water is getting through then you can decide the best way how to tackle it. or even a cheap endoscope off Amazon? Edited November 20, 2020 by Gav_P
Pocster Posted November 20, 2020 Author Posted November 20, 2020 On 20/11/2020 at 18:17, Gav_P said: Can you get a camera or mirror under the lip and see if you can spot the offending area? If you know for sure how the water is getting through then you can decide the best way how to tackle it. or even a cheap endoscope off Amazon? Expand It’s tight - maybe only 3mm
Pocster Posted November 20, 2020 Author Posted November 20, 2020 On 20/11/2020 at 17:15, pocster said: Yeah - it’s also a good plan Remember the felt is just a protective layer . The firm who did the roof properly said I didn’t need it . It’s just to protect the bituminous layer . But is ct1 really that good outdoors in all weathers forever ?? Expand Actually it’s the other corner - typically!!
Gav_P Posted November 20, 2020 Posted November 20, 2020 On 20/11/2020 at 18:29, pocster said: It’s tight - maybe only 3mm Expand Bugger. 1
Onoff Posted November 20, 2020 Posted November 20, 2020 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Expanding-foam-tape-dark-weathertightness/dp/B01CGBF5WS 1
Onoff Posted November 20, 2020 Posted November 20, 2020 (edited) Tbh Compriband and Illbruck are the names to conjure with for expanding tape. Edited November 20, 2020 by Onoff
Cpd Posted November 20, 2020 Posted November 20, 2020 a possible foam option. https://www.dortechdirect.co.uk/tremco-compriband-tp600-3mm-7mm-gap-size.html 1
joe90 Posted November 20, 2020 Posted November 20, 2020 I used this around my windows when fitting them but it expands fast, even if kept cool (fridge) but it’s difficult to get in a small gap.
Cpd Posted November 20, 2020 Posted November 20, 2020 That’s a non starter then on that product, well done @joe90 fir spotting my dodgy internet grab.....
joe90 Posted November 20, 2020 Posted November 20, 2020 On 20/11/2020 at 20:11, Cpd said: dodgy Expand No mate, not dodgy just not suitable fir this problem. IMO.
Big Jimbo Posted November 21, 2020 Posted November 21, 2020 I think that one of the things that this sort of problem tells us is the importance of how high upstands, and things like lead flashing need to be done right. When extending existing properties etc. I can't count how many rear extensions i have done over the years at the back of my houses. I have never taken out the back wall in order to put in a cavity tray, yet when building we would always stick them in above windows etc. That's why when say, cutting in a flashing to dress down on to a single story flat roof extension, it so important to not skimp of the height. (ie mininum 150mm above roof surface) upstands for roof windows etc need similar consideration, damp proof courses to ground level etc. It is surprising how high water can bounce, or track upwards. Just my morning thoughts while i have a cup of tea. Hope you get it bodge sorted Pocster mate. 1
scottishjohn Posted November 21, 2020 Posted November 21, 2020 read some -but not all of above this reminds me of fixing leaks on cars --water leaks can be a real pain to find exactly where its getting in ,cos where it shows can be a long way from actual leak from outside Ok your T shaped frame do you know for certain if its coming from the top lip or the bottom lip can you remove the actual glass bit ? if you can then get some sikaflex --same stuff as they stick car windscreens in with clean and dry glass and frame -bead of sikaflexex --drop it in # there will be no need for fixing of nay type once its set the down side maybe is you will never be able to remove it once its set you could same with the bottom lip all depends how easy it is to remove --but doing this will be a 100% fix for ever its basically same stuff as they make glass fish tanks with --but black If you don,t mind the colour I would then tip a tin of aquaseal (silver stuff) that reflects the sun and just a new cheap floor brush and push it around the roof to spread it out and fill the fbad felt joints -- --good dry day and its done or go old school and a tar boiler and pour it on when its liquid--its what they did with my petrol station concrete roof(bison beams -to make it burgular proof ) -to make it water tight --its flat --never leaks and melts in summer and self heals any cracks - I have done that every 5 years on my flat felt garage roof --still perfect 25 years on 2
Declan52 Posted November 21, 2020 Posted November 21, 2020 On 21/11/2020 at 09:20, scottishjohn said: read some -but not all of above this reminds me of fixing leaks on cars --water leaks can be a real pain to find exactly where its getting in ,cos where it shows can be a long way from actual leak from outside Ok your T shaped frame do you know for certain if its coming from the top lip or the bottom lip can you remove the actual glass bit ? if you can then get some sikaflex --same stuff as they stick car windscreens in with clean and dry glass and frame -bead of sikaflexex --drop it in # there will be no need for fixing of nay type once its set the down side maybe is you will never be able to remove it once its set you could same with the bottom lip all depends how easy it is to remove --but doing this will be a 100% fix for ever its basically same stuff as they make glass fish tanks with --but black If you don,t mind the colour I would then tip a tin of aquaseal (silver stuff) that reflects the sun and just a new cheap floor brush and push it around the roof to spread it out and fill the fbad felt joints -- --good dry day and its done or go old school and a tar boiler and pour it on when its liquid--its what they did with my petrol station concrete roof(bison beams -to make it burgular proof ) -to make it water tight --its flat --never leaks and melts in summer and self heals any cracks - I have done that every 5 years on my flat felt garage roof --still perfect 25 years on Expand My bro in law bought a brand new Peugeot 308 with the full sun roof that leaked from day 1. They had it back numerous times trying to find the leak with the full glass roof removed and resealed 3 times. Eventually managed to get it sorted.
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