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Basic garden room insulated slab


daiking

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21 minutes ago, daiking said:


Of course that’s the geometric proof but I just couldn’t get them equal. 

If you want a handy way to square up a corner use the very simple 3-4-5 rule. So simple.

You pull your first line, go to the corner point measure 3 ft back from the corner on the line. Pull your line for the next wall and mark 4 ft on it and rotate the line until the distance between the 2 marks are 5 ft and then you know it will be perfectly square. You can use feet , inches meters, centimets any unit of measurement once you use increments of  3-4-5 

 

P.s if I made a hash of explaining it try googling it but it's very simple and I've set pout corners of very large apartment blocks using it whilst waiting for my engineers to get their fancy GPS machines to work.

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3 hours ago, Ronan 1 said:

If you want a handy way to square up a corner use the very simple 3-4-5 rule. So simple.

You pull your first line, go to the corner point measure 3 ft back from the corner on the line. Pull your line for the next wall and mark 4 ft on it and rotate the line until the distance between the 2 marks are 5 ft and then you know it will be perfectly square. You can use feet , inches meters, centimets any unit of measurement once you use increments of  3-4-5 

 

P.s if I made a hash of explaining it try googling it but it's very simple and I've set pout corners of very large apartment blocks using it whilst waiting for my engineers to get their fancy GPS machines to work.

 

3 hours ago, joe90 said:

When doing work like that I make a large set square from 3 lengths of roofing batten (that are straight!!!!) using the 3,4,5 rule.


I know but I’ve only got a framing square lying around and one pair of hands at the moment so it’s tricky. 5355 vs 5310 was the best I got it but I’m going to move it once I can get rid of the holly stump.

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14 hours ago, Russell griffiths said:

For future reference 

never cut a tree that close to the ground, cut it off at 6 feet high so you would’ve had some leverage. 


It wasn’t me...

 

It’s absolutely rock solid and At least 6 inches below ground level will need to go as this is the future access route past the cabin.

 

I’ll have to poison it as well as I expect it to continue to send out shoots in the future .

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On 19/01/2021 at 10:35, daiking said:


Cheers Storm Christoph, do your worst.


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It’s been snowing for 2 hours as well, wtf.

 

cabin position is not yet under water but it is dark out there. I think we’re getting to the stage where the upstream culvert is limiting the flow past us.

 

 

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4 minutes ago, Dave Jones said:


 

I watched that when you posted it yesterday. 
 

I’m probably going to go for simple footing and a slab on the basis of showing people how wrong they are who say laying 30 blocks level is quite simple.

 

 

Edited by daiking
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Floodwatch peaked at about a sphincter clapping 1.28m.

which meant it wasn’t quite lapping at the base of the fence. I have a few cm to play with height wise so will prob have my base a little bit above ground level.

 

(log cabin is a flat roof variant 2240mm high)

 

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Going with the following plan to have a go at something new. 
 

I’d be lying if I said I thought going to this much trouble would make a significant difference. But there we are. 
 

Intending to float the floor with no bearers on the concrete. The extra little bit of PIR to help.

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48 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

What is stopping the timber bearer getting wet and transferring moisture into the inner structure 

Nothing.

 

This is the standard detail for this type of build. I’m intending it to be a little above ground level, there is a slight overhang on the roof. 
 

the detail is that the bearer should be flush with the wall but until I’ve got my bits of wood I don’t know exactly what I’ve got.

 

the intention is that the base blocks are exactly sized for the perimeter of the cabin

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5 minutes ago, daiking said:

the detail is that the bearer should be flush with the wall but until I’ve got my bits of wood I don’t know exactly what I’ve got.

 

I would expect the bearer to be slightly inboard of the outside face of the wall. The bottom of the wall wants some sort of lip down over the edge of the bearer.

 

Any timber you don't want to get wet needs to be at least 150mm above the surrounding ground level. 

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3 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

I would expect the bearer to be slightly inboard of the outside face of the wall. The bottom of the wall wants some sort of lip down over the edge of the bearer.

 

Any timber you don't want to get wet needs to be at least 150mm above the surrounding ground level. 

It’s a wooden cabin ? it will get wet. 

 

alright I’ve drawn it mirrored wrong there, more interested in the slab build up at the moment. 

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4 minutes ago, joe90 said:

What about turning the bearer timber into a cill (sloping front edge and drip channel under the front edge?).


That's a cost+ option I’ve not gone with. 
 

this is what I will be following 

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