joe90 Posted October 14, 2020 Posted October 14, 2020 Ah, misunderstood, yes as @PeterW says, standard stuff fir “normal” builders (as apposed to us “self builders”).
Moonshine Posted March 5, 2021 Author Posted March 5, 2021 O.k i think that i am going to go away from a ledger board, and use a metal inbuilt hanger as the brickie i have talked indicates that he can work the coursing to my split level house. https://www.strongtie.co.uk/products/detail/joist-hanger-for-masonry/356#tab-technical-data
Rishard Posted March 21 Posted March 21 In relation to this topic. I’ve installed ledger boards in the past with resin bolts and had good success. I haven’t ever wet plastered behind the ledger boards. Would you just wet plastered the area behind the board before installing it or the whole room? Obviously difficult if there is no floor in yet. I plan on using ledgers with my design and eco joists on 400mm centres. I remember once spacing the ledger off by 25mm behind the each resin bolts and had so the electrician had an easy route down for his cables. Do we think this is advisable or should be avoided? I have a concrete ground floor so imagine most of the socket ring main and lighting coming down from the first floor void.
Iceverge Posted March 21 Posted March 21 8 minutes ago, Rishard said: I remember once spacing the ledger off by 25mm behind the each resin bolts and had so the electrician had an easy route down for his cables. Do we think this is advisable or should be avoided? Excellent plan for your sparky but I'd worry about the cantilever effect of having the ledger off the wall. Some calcs might be prudent I think. You could always pre chase the routes for cables behind the ledger and drill an angled hole through the ledger to take the cables. 11 minutes ago, Rishard said: I haven’t ever wet plastered behind the ledger boards. Would you just wet plastered the area behind the board before installing it or the whole room? The area just behind the ledger should be fine. You could always carefully not bother and just slop some airtight paint above and below it afterwards.
Rishard Posted March 22 Posted March 22 9 hours ago, Iceverge said: Excellent plan for your sparky but I'd worry about the cantilever effect of having the ledger off the wall. Some calcs might be prudent I think. You could always pre chase the routes for cables behind the ledger and drill an angled hole through the ledger to take the cables. The area just behind the ledger should be fine. You could always carefully not bother and just slop some airtight paint above and below it afterwards. I hear what you mean regarding the cantilever. I will have a word with the sparky and see if a pre planned conduit run or chase could work behind the ledger. In regards to airtight paint. Do you mean seal the top and bottom edge of the ledger to the blockwork? Would an airtight silicone type mastic be good for this if the timber shrinks? Never used airtight paint direct to blockwork/timber. Am I right in thinking you’re talking about applying it at this junction, prior to plastering?
Iceverge Posted March 22 Posted March 22 (edited) 4 hours ago, Rishard said: Do you mean seal the top and bottom edge of the ledger to the blockwork? Would an airtight silicone type mastic be good for this if the timber shrinks? Never used airtight paint direct to blockwork/timber. Am I right in thinking you’re talking about applying it at this junction, prior to plastering Yup, airtight paint would give you the option of bringing the airtight layer up and well clear of the floor construction to meet the wet plaster later on. Airtight sealant would work but you might find it tricky to plaster right to the line of the sealant. Dilute the airtight paint 5:1 with water as a primer before applying the top layer . You could always use airtight paint entirely behind the ledger before you attached it to the wall. Don't forget to put some mastic or sealant in the holes the bolts go into the wall too and to airtight paint the chase behind the ledger. Edited March 22 by Iceverge
Rishard Posted March 22 Posted March 22 That all sounds pretty sensible and practical. A much easier approach then trying to get the plaster in to skim a meter strip around the whole joist band area. Will look into airtightness paints next. My eco joist supplier is able to provide my joists with an amount of ‘trimmable’ ends in order to get the best fit. In reality it is much more difficult building up all the masonry 2 storeys without the first floor to work off. We’re about done now so looking forward to putting a roof on and installing a floor.
Iceverge Posted March 23 Posted March 23 13 hours ago, Rishard said: reality it is much more difficult building up all the masonry 2 storeys without the first floor to work off No need to do this is have thought. Just build the walls say 1-2 courses above the first floor height, partially chase them for your services. Paint on airtight paint , fix ledger, fit first floor. Carry on as normal. Thinking about it, drilling concrete, cleaning the hols and inserting resin fixings is a ball ache. Would it be easier to build in m10x180mm bolts to a mortar bed with 50mm washers in the cavity side. And leave 80mm protruding inside Drill 20mm holes in the ledger for some shuffle room and bolt in place.
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