Extension- Last Stuff.

[Onoff]

4 hours ago, joe90 said:

Right, if you want the header to help keep the uprights against the walls rebate them slightly and screw. Fix the header to that stud work.

 

Think you're onto something there! Someone needs to market it. You could have it all bundled together and shrink wrapped. Just needs a catchy name. 

[joe90]

2 minutes ago, Onoff said:

Just needs a catchy name. 

how about.    “Lining kit”. ?

[Onoff]

1 minute ago, joe90 said:

how about.    “Lining kit”. ?

 

Nah, it'll never catch on. Pity. 

[zoothorn]

@Onoff ok look are you suggesting that I just buy a lining kit? If so could you please just say? Im really struggling to find suitable wood here. And to do this by making it. IE If I do find it, then I have to fashion these rebates -perfectly- 90* which isnt easy at all.

 

Afaik, I have to measure the narrowest part of the opening, which is by 8mm, the middle, measure up/ mark a point.. & pack out all the area above & below. Is this right? Ive no idea. Or am I meant to hack away at the wall until I have a perfectly upright side? the clip assumes a perfect opening/ surely most aren't so.

[Onoff]

3 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

then I have to fashion these rebates -perfectly- 90* which isnt easy at all.

 

Buying a kit was my first thought yes. I've used the kits that allow for 2 door widths depending what way up the header is and just lopped off the excess. Zoom in above the sapele door.

 

 

Doesn't matter a carrot if the walls are rough. Chip off the high spots and pack.

 

 

 

Zoom in where the tiles meet the lining and you'll see the packs:

 

 

It's pi$$ easy. If making them yourself just clamp a bit of timber square and route against that. Old school would be a tenon saw to depth then chisel.

 

[zoothorn]

@Onoff very neatly done. I do get the rout idea too, & like your router doodle! But one difference yours to mine: you've fashioned the opening to accomodate a frame lining kit, with specific rebated positions, to accomodate a regular 2'6 or 2'9 door. Plus a regular door H too. I assume.

 

Me here I'm designated by my 800mm opening (actually 790mm cos its got a midrift hump). This will equate to a 2'4 door more or less. And the H likely different too (but here I guess its just a Q of nipping off two ends of the jams, even in your case there).

 

So as it seems better quality, & has the slightly bigger D @ 33mm, & has one side rebated already.. could I not buy a kit & just rout either header rebate 'inwards' 2"? then I know I have correct wood guages for a casing/ lining, one side rebated I could 'copy' (and also hasn't it got the planty bits inc too?)

 

Or am I missing something?

 

thanks.

[zoothorn]

Actually this is the only thing in town, in stock.. 27mm (x130mm) whitewood, is that too thin?

 

https://www.jewson.co.uk/p/pefc-whitewood-lining-set-bwf-cert-32-x-138-act-size-27-x-132mm-PPL93214

[Onoff]

2 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Actually this is the only thing in town, in stock.. 27mm (x130mm) whitewood, is that too thin?

 

https://www.jewson.co.uk/p/pefc-whitewood-lining-set-bwf-cert-32-x-138-act-size-27-x-132mm-PPL93214

 

That's what my linings are, 27mm thick. 

[zoothorn]

3 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

That's what my linings are, 27mm thick. 

 

 

Ok so is my plan to push the rebate inwards/ re-rout it, any good.. I'm not missing a trick?

 

Also it says 'inc stops'.. pic suggests stops are fixed in place: can that be, or unlikely?

 

thanks zoot

[Onoff]

1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

 

 

Ok so is my plan to push the rebate inwards/ re-rout it, any good.. I'm not missing a trick?

 

Also it says 'inc stops'.. pic suggests stops are fixed in place: can that be, or unlikely?

 

thanks zoot

 

Sorry, I'm lost...the plan is to buy the Jewson lining kit you linked then further rebate it? I wouldn't, what'll you gain, an inch wider door and the 27mm will be down to half an inch!

[joe90]

@Onoff I  think he means the rebate at the top to take the uprights so it fits the Space tightly.

[Onoff]

1 minute ago, joe90 said:

@Onoff I  think he means the rebate at the top to take the uprights so it fits the Space tightly.

 

Ah I see! Yep, route another through housing to your heart's content Zoot! If the new housing overlaps with the old you can infill with a bit of any old scrap wood, glued and pinned to keep it tight.

 

A through housing joint:

 

 

 

[zoothorn]

5 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Ah I see! Yep, route another through housing to your heart's content Zoot! If the new housing overlaps with the old you can infill with a bit of any old scrap wood, glued and pinned to keep it tight.

 

A through housing joint:

 

 

 

 

Now -I'm- lost. Afaik, & looking at the b&q clip, I fix the jam into the rebated trench, screw/ fix.. then saw off the excess. So I don't understand why the trench bit if I sawing the excess bit off (just to keep it nice & perp b4 you screw it together-?).

 

Yes I think joe explained my plan. Just shift one rebate inwards, I think 2" or so, once Ive determined my header W.

 

I can only think I find the header width, or rather the perfect width of the jams, by extending the narrowest opening width I find, upwards to the opening overhead area bit, marking a point.. then doing the same opposite side, & measuring distance between.

 

Is that right?

 

 

[Onoff]

1 minute ago, zoothorn said:

 

Now -I'm- lost. Afaik, & looking at the b&q clip, I fix the jam into the rebated trench, screw/ fix.. then saw off the excess. So I don't understand why the trench bit if I sawing the excess bit off (just to keep it nice & perp b4 you screw it together-?).

 

Yes I think joe explained my plan. Just shift one rebate inwards, I think 2" or so, once Ive determined my header W.

 

I can only think I find the header width, or rather the perfect width of the jams, by extending the narrowest opening width I find, upwards to the opening overhead area bit, marking a point.. then doing the same opposite side, & measuring distance between.

 

Is that right?

 

 

 

My mistake. Just cut the new trench and cut the excess off.

[zoothorn]

52 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

My mistake. Just cut the new trench and cut the excess off.

 

Yup- good that's a plan then. Ok I think the only other thing I need is placcy packers with my pesky 1cm midrift difference to the top & btm opening width.. is that the right idea too?

 

 

[Onoff]

Just now, zoothorn said:

 

Yup- good that's a plan then. Ok I think the only other thing I need is placcy packers with my pesky 1cm midrift difference to the top & btm opening width.. is that the right idea too?

 

 

 

Yep. Buy the big kit of trouser shims from SF. Invaluable.

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/broadfix-assorted-plastic-shims-medium-200-pcs/80408?

[Onoff]

That Jewson link shows the stops are separate. One tip is fix the sides with screws so that the stops you then pin on go over the screw holes. 

[zoothorn]

14 hours ago, Onoff said:

That Jewson link shows the stops are separate. One tip is fix the sides with screws so that the stops you then pin on go over the screw holes. 

 

Got a door lining kit. it measures, actually, 132 x 27mm

 

is this too long fo this job? there's another exact the same, but checks out at 122mm or so. Would this be better/ easier?

[Onoff]

48 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

 

Got a door lining kit. it measures, actually, 132 x 27mm

 

is this too long fo this job? there's another exact the same, but checks out at 122mm or so. Would this be better/ easier?

 

You mean too wide? 132-122=10mm. Wouldn't worry about it being 10mm wider.

 

Get on and fit it! ?

[zoothorn]

7 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

You mean too wide? 132-122=10mm. Wouldn't worry about it being 10mm wider.

 

Get on and fit it! ?

 

No I guess not.. its my over-prep sorry!

 

Ok I'm diving in tmrw (carpet man booked monday coming so 4 days to to.. 4 minutes for you).

[zoothorn]

18 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

 

@Onoff ok made a start/ routed my new rebate slot. But Ive come up against a big prob immediately.

 

The two sides for the jams, where they fix to, are not bad/ just a few shims top & btm each side.

 

But I just put level on the upright, just around the corner (so where the facing arch will attatch to the side of the jam).. & to achieve it plumb, I have a 1" discrepency/ gap at the LHS top.. & a 1/2" gap at the RHS top.

 

So the frame will either stick out at the top (protruding into the bedroom the door opens 'backwards' into).. or if I put it in flush @ the top the arch will protrude at the btm/ huge gaps: I assume this way is n/a.

[zoothorn]

Can anyone help me out here? time is really pressing now.

[Onoff]

34 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Can anyone help me out here? time is really pressing now.

 

I think I understand what you mean. So basically your walls are pi$$ed? 

 

As ever, photos would help. 

 

Whatever you do your frame needs to be installed square and plumb. I'm thinking architrave might mask the issue and you'll fill behind it.

 

The joys of an old house with wonky walls. Welcome to my world.

 

Edit: Is "arch" your shorthand for architrave? I've just spent minutes trying to figure where your "arch" is. Use proper English like wot we do.

Edited November 5, 2020 by Onoff

[Onoff]

What side are the hinges going on in this photo?

 

[zoothorn]

@Onoff hi there. Right hand side hinges, door opening twds camera. Yes arch = architrave (apologies).

 

My pi$$ed walls: ok so as we look at the pic, the wall facing us (as in where the new shut door will be) its TOP is tilting -away- from camera.

 

So when my lining goes in & I make it flush with the btm and PLUMB.. I'll have the lining 'jutting out' twds camera at the top.

 

I assume this is the correct way to put the sod in plumb -IE- not having the top flush to the wall up here.. because lining will be 'inside' the opening at the btm if I do it this way, & the arch won't be able to fix onto it.