Extension- Last Stuff.

[Gav_P]

24 minutes ago, joe90 said:

Right mate, photo of how I finish end skirtings, 45’ cut through top moulding and plant on end piece. Also need to plant on (glue) additional wood to make depth required. Hope this makes sense?

Is no-one going to question the gun in the photo??

?

[Roundtuit]

1 minute ago, Gav_P said:

Is no-one going to question the gun in the photo??

?

BSA I reckon.?

[Gav_P]

Just now, Roundtuit said:

BSA I reckon.?

Hatsan 900x .22?

[joe90]

Just now, Roundtuit said:

BSA I reckon.?

Nah, Chech made air rifle.

[joe90]

Just now, Gav_P said:

Hatsan 900x .22?

 

yep, go to the top of the class.

[zoothorn]

10 minutes ago, Roundtuit said:

Get your steps sorted first, and worry about the skirting later.  You could always put some architrave around the doorway and run the skirting straight up to that, independent of the steps.  You've done some great quality work; have confidence and make it up as you go along like the rest of us! ?

 

I don't know what architrave is- I find it only confuses me.

 

If I could just work out how these side bits are made I can progress, but until then I can't visualise anything.

 

If I could just fathom -how- carrerahill made one of his side angled skirtings for eg. From what were these made??

 

Or is the whole idea to rout/ profile the edges --yourself-- maybe?? (starting with a blank 12" high mdf or something?? which Ive never seen tho) is this the only way these sides can be made I wonder?? total & utter confusion & headache approaching as usual trying to get my head round this.

[joe90]

As I said before, complete the steps then make a template of both sides. Additional width of timber made by “planting on” (glue on additional piece) I will spell it out when you have the template.

[zoothorn]

1 minute ago, joe90 said:

As I said before, complete the steps then make a template of both sides. Additional width of timber made by “planting on” (glue on additional piece) I will spell it out when you have the template.

 

Ok I can get a rough idea of 'planting' on, if this means I can actually fabricate this side angle skirting area (bh how on earth else it could be done??).

 

The problem I have, as I see it (& the last sting in the ass of this vomit inducing HATEFUL extra 1 F*****NG FOOT DOWN my wretched builder's built the whole sodding thing) is these 2 damned steps are so huge, even adding two more they're still big, meaning the bigger the steps = the higher the skirting needed.

 

If I kept as is (2x 10" high huge steps), I'd need approx 14" high skirting, or in my case almost four skirtings 'planted upon each' as Id need to rip the profile section off 1st. This simply cannot be feasable: it cannot be even a last option. As usual.. Im utterly bewildered.

[Gav_P]

I really think you are worrying about this far too much, which is stopping you from seeing the wood for the trees. 
 

As soon as it makes sense to you, you will realise how simple the solution will be. 
 

The other option is to raise the lower floor height.... voila, no steps to worry about. ?

[joe90]

@zoothorn as @Gav_P says above your over thinking  it. If the height difference is 20” then three steps is 6.6” each is a much more comfortable and acceptable way to go. Build the steps and we will talk you through the skirting, I am off to bed, night night ?

[Roundtuit]

29 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

 

I don't know what architrave is- I find it only confuses me

Have you tried Googling 'architrave' for photos? It's just a posh name for the fancy trim around a doorway.  Stop procrastinating and start offering bits of wood up to the job! ?

[zoothorn]

2 minutes ago, Gav_P said:

I really think you are worrying about this far too much, which is stopping you from seeing the wood for the trees. 
 

As soon as it makes sense to you, you will realise how simple the solution will be. 
 

The other option is to raise the lower floor height.... voila, no steps to worry about. ?

 

Its only going to make sense if someone can explain it. I'm 100% sure the answer is simple, its just that I can't see it, bc I'm not used to it.

 

I can only think of making the steps (how- I've yet to ask) if I can 'see' it all 1st inc skirts (which I'm bang in middle of/ both rooms). mo-fo skirting.. I have to listen to gore-grind (like this musical interlude) & summon thors courage to start. As for 45* mitres.. jesus wept. skirting make zoot very angry, highly unstable & insane.

 

The man here is like me contemplating a length of skirtingboard to fit..

 

 

 

[Ferdinand]

I think you need some lighter relief. Come back tomorrow.

 

 

 

Edited September 23, 2020 by Ferdinand

[Onoff]

9 hours ago, joe90 said:

Feck off, watching tv (actually I can do isometric projection or oblique projection, which would you require ?).

 

Maybe a nice abstract vanishing point sketch in charcoal?

[zoothorn]

@Ferdinand enjoyed that zoot clip! yes I was skirted-out y'day. I think maybe I need PIR in middle step: concrete ontop of old wall as it is = a big area of cold into the room/ IE anything to reduce this.

 

So just a Q next of making these 2 steps then. The RHS will be visible, so I wonder how to make them? any ideas welcome.

 

 

[joe90]

Work out how much higher you need middle step. Baton either end and PIR in the middle, floorboard (off cut of chipboard flooring) rounded front edge, screw down to concrete. Make nosing (round edge ) a good inch out from front of concrete.  Do this then  Report Back and we will talk you through the bottom step.

Edited September 24, 2020 by joe90

[zoothorn]

@joe90 thanks for that joe.. Id honestly have bodged it if I hadn't asked. Is your idea with the rounded front edge to facilitate carpetting it?

 

What would you suggest.. carpet these steps, or, make the top bit the final step surface (in which case any chip board offcut or mdf I can find will need to be covered in something).

 

cheers zoot

[joe90]

22 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Is your idea with the rounded front edge to facilitate carpetting it?

No it’s just “normal “ for stairs, looks a lot better IMO.

 

23 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

What would you suggest.. carpet these steps, or, make the top bit the final step surface (in which case any chip board offcut or mdf I can find will need to be covered in something).

whatever takes your fancy. Unless your going to re carpet that top room in which case extend the new carpet down the stairs. Are you going to carpet the lower room? In this case extend that carpet up the stairs. Or you could just paint it until one of them get carpeted! Whatever you do the top step needs to be flush with the wood floor in that top room,

[zoothorn]

23 minutes ago, joe90 said:

No it’s just “normal “ for stairs, looks a lot better IMO.

 

whatever takes your fancy. Unless your going to re carpet that top room in which case extend the new carpet down the stairs. Are you going to carpet the lower room? In this case extend that carpet up the stairs. Or you could just paint it until one of them get carpeted! Whatever you do the top step needs to be flush with the wood floor in that top room,

 

The idea of doing this step-adding job next, is bc skirting in this top room done I'm moving twds quotes for carpetting. Just top room to carpet. As I hadn't even considered these steps finished off like carrerahill's in hardwood tops, Id just assumed the carpet job would extend to the steps.

 

But could the steps effectively be carpetted as they are? not bc I'm changing my mind & leaving 2 huge steps as is.. but bc if I fettle 2 more steps, I 1) need to make them all similar, IE the front edges.. & 2) I need to establish if a carpetter can lay carpet up a sheer concrete face between the steps.

 

I cannot believe how complicated this is just to add two steps!! for eg your suggestion is to have a 'lip' overhanging the front edges. But how do I make this if I'm constrained to 9mm ply as my top (bc 2x CLS + 9mm top = correct step addition to middle)-? I can't have a thin 9mm ply rounded off protrusion/ lip. The top step (the continuation of old masterbedroom floor) needs a 12mm ply addition before the carpet to make it flush with the masterbedroom floor:  I can't fashion a rounded off 12mm 'lip' protrusion, different from the next steps thinner 9mm one.

 

All I can think to do, is make each step similar to existing ones, IE a slight rounding off/ blunting the sharp front edge, but no 'lip' just a 90* situation like they are now. Is this a workable idea? Or am I missing something here?

 

 

 

Edited September 24, 2020 by zoothorn

[joe90]

this would work fir your top step , with middle step use 18mm flooring and round it over and pack beneath to suite. Yes you can stick carpet to concrete but would you be satisfied with that? (I would not!). 

 

 

Edited September 24, 2020 by joe90

[zoothorn]

@joe90 ok that's an idea to add s'thing under the 12mm sticky outy bit, thanks for the sketch joe. I do have some old marine ply 18mm for top of the middle step, if I can lower the 2x CLS 6mm. How long the sticky outy bit would you say is normal?

 

Is it normal for carpet to go over the sticky outys, in, & down the vertical step bit? Id assume on stairs etc this is typical no? I don't want to make step shapes, out of all sorts of woody tat knocking about (IE must be covered), that can't be carpetted over tho.

[Onoff]

Just route a bullnose on the front of the ply etc if you're carpeting over it.

 

And or route your own bullnose using a bit of softwood and glue and pin to the edge of a chipboard floorboard.

[joe90]

13 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Is it normal for carpet to go over the sticky outys, in, & down the vertical step bit?

yes, does not look right with just a square edge (IMO).

 

15 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

How long the sticky outy bit would you say is normal?

I would make it 20mm. Build those two then we will talk you through the bottom step.

[Roundtuit]

Personally, I'd go straight edge with no overhang, probably in a nice bit of oak, and not carpeted.   But then I prefer a more contemporary style,  and I haven't got a router...

[joe90]

1 minute ago, Roundtuit said:

Personally, I'd go straight edge with no overhang, probably in a nice bit of oak, and not carpeted.   But then I prefer a more contemporary style,  and I haven't got a router...

I probably would go with oak as well (But with a bull nose, and I do have a router!!!) but fir ease using ply etc and carpeting would make it easier fir zoot.