"Caber+" floor to fit/ Q's.

[zoothorn]

17 minutes ago, ProDave said:

You only need the long edge of make A to mate with make B

 

You would then use the two rogue boards just for one row of floor, and in that case their end tongue and grooves would mate.

 

And you would use the pair or rogue boards as either the very first row or the very last row, NOT a row in the middle.

 

If you can't get make A tongue to push unto make B groove, try the other way, make B tongue pushing into make A groove.  If one way fits but not the other, that determines if the two rogue boards will become your first or your last row.

 

Actually this is a brilliant idea. Ok if I start with the rogues forming my 1st row, their tongues being -less- (by 5mm) than the cabers.. the cabers will push onto them. Why I didn't figure this out Ive no idea, just assumed both ways round wouldn't work.

 

So I can butt the 2nd row cabers up.. but for the profiles having a 5mm gap. So will the glue aid me here maybe expanding & filling the gap?

 

And I can't of course use the offcut to start the 2nd row (bc its edge profile opposite). So Ive got to work out how to orientate the two caber boards for 2nd row to get me to the end of the room. I think.

[PeterW]

1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

 

Actually this is a brilliant idea. Ok if I start with the rogues forming my 1st row, their tongues being -less- (by 5mm) than the cabers.. the cabers will push onto them. Why I didn't figure this out Ive no idea, just assumed both ways round wouldn't work.

 

So I can butt the 2nd row cabers up.. but for the profiles having a 5mm gap. So will the glue aid me here maybe expanding & filling the gap?

 

And I can't of course use the offcut to start the 2nd row (bc its edge profile opposite). So Ive got to work out how to orientate the two caber boards for 2nd row to get me to the end of the room. I think.

 

Just use the first two and "hide" them under where any bench would be and there will be no problems. 

[Onoff]

Fill any gap between the different type of boards with No Nails or similar once the floor is down. If you mask up with tape you'll get it dead neat when you take it down level with a paint scraper or whatever.

[zoothorn]

3 minutes ago, PeterW said:

 

Just use the first two and "hide" them under where any bench would be and there will be no problems. 

 

 

1 hour ago, PeterW said:

 

Just use the first two and "hide" them under where any bench would be and there will be no problems. 

 

Yes I'm lucky having benches along this far wall.. but its going fine after ProDave's idea. Perfect eg of waiting, however long in my case/ days, until the right idea comes to the fore. I might have got into router fettling or lord knows what pickle by now instead of..

 

 

 

 

[zoothorn]

I am gonna run out of boards tho. He's left me half a board short. And right where you don't want it too.. around doorway.

 

Apart from that its going fine. 3 boards left only now.

 

Any problem with using as small as 11" wide offcut? I really am forced into using every scrap now: it will be under benches tho adjacent to wall.

[ProDave]

Small offcut like that will be fine.  Bit of a bugger being half a board short, post a pic when you get there.

 

 

[zoothorn]

14 minutes ago, ProDave said:

Small offcut like that will be fine.  Bit of a bugger being half a board short, post a pic when you get there.

 

 

 

Well I think so: you see the last row, is only half-width @ ~30cm.. & i guess I can't use the long scraps: I can't work it out at the mo tbh. I am terribly thick tho.

Edited April 27, 2020 by zoothorn

[Big Jimbo]

Zoot the Hoot. That is a mighty fine looking job fella. Are you left handed ? So far you should have no scrap. Ie. start in far right hand corner. Work to the left, and whatever you cut off the last board becomes the start of your next row.

[PeterW]

3 hours ago, zoothorn said:

 

 

 

Yes I'm lucky having benches along this far wall.. but its going fine after ProDave's idea. Perfect eg of waiting, however long in my case/ days, until the right idea comes to the fore. I might have got into router fettling or lord knows what pickle by now instead of..

 

 

 

 

are those boards loose laid ..? Or upside down ..?

 

I can see gaps - that looks like the bottom of the board and the “bottom joint” is flush tight ..??

[zoothorn]

2 hours ago, PeterW said:

are those boards loose laid ..? Or upside down ..?

 

I can see gaps - that looks like the bottom of the board and the “bottom joint” is flush tight ..??

 

Hi Peter.. sorry not following you. Loose laid- if that means placed on the PIR, then yes. Upside down- no it says this side up, shiny smooth brown underside. You don't see gaps in the pic, they're filled with oozing gubbins.

 

I'm not understanding "bottom joint", or bottom of the board (there no designated top or btm) either!

 

So I don't understand every single thing in your post!! haha.. not the 1st I admit.

 

I can only ascertain from this, that you have been drinking heavily all afternoon.

[zoothorn]

2 hours ago, Big Jimbo said:

Zoot the Hoot. That is a mighty fine looking job fella. Are you left handed ? So far you should have no scrap. Ie. start in far right hand corner. Work to the left, and whatever you cut off the last board becomes the start of your next row.

 

Hi Jimbo- thanks, no I'm right handed. Yup done as you suggest, but for the door area two rows, where I switched to start rows from here to get a solid square edge adjacent to door.. I assumed more fallible if a groove edge at this threshold area.

 

Taken all day but job complete. I had only 1/4 board absent/ last bit in far RHS corner opposite door.. so had to wangle a rogue offcut & jam the sod in. Hope scary BO man won't see.

 

Will try for a pic tmrw. Many thanks to all again, what could I do without yous all?

Edited April 27, 2020 by zoothorn

[PeterW]

OK can now see that it’s glue...!

[Big Jimbo]

1 hour ago, PeterW said:

OK can now see that it’s glue...!

Peter can now see the glue Zoot, because the drink has worn off?

[Onoff]

2 hours ago, zoothorn said:

 

Hi Jimbo- thanks, no I'm right handed. Yup done as you suggest, but for the door area two rows, where I switched to start rows from here to get a solid square edge adjacent to door.. I assumed more fallible if a groove edge at this threshold area.

 

Taken all day but job complete. I had only 1/4 board absent/ last bit in far RHS corner opposite door.. so had to wangle a rogue offcut & jam the sod in. Hope scary BO man won't see.

 

Will try for a pic tmrw. Many thanks to all again, what could I do without yous all?

 

Just think how soon you might have got thd "right" answer with a few more pictures rather than trying to convey things with words!

[zoothorn]

4 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Just think how soon you might have got thd "right" answer with a few more pictures rather than trying to convey things with words!

 

Onoff.. my dear fellow, I only own a nr dead olympus  e10 (AA's @ full charge, rarely let me take a pic.. they get power issues). I dont do mob phones/ they don't work here anyway. Hence my having to spiel more than I might.

[Onoff]

8 hours ago, zoothorn said:

 

Onoff.. my dear fellow, I only own a nr dead olympus  e10 (AA's @ full charge, rarely let me take a pic.. they get power issues). I dont do mob phones/ they don't work here anyway. Hence my having to spiel more than I might.

 

@zoothorn.. my dear fellow. Hence my reading most of your posts less than I would.

[zoothorn]

56 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

@zoothorn.. my dear fellow. Hence my reading most of your posts less than I would.

 

Point taken. but as I'm out of work a new cam isn't top of my list right now.

 

Will try for one pic of finished floor tho later.. if the sodding thing lets me.

[Onoff]

20 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

 

Point taken. but as I'm out of work a new cam isn't top of my list right now.

 

Will try for one pic of finished floor tho later.. if the sodding thing lets me.

 

I'll have a look and see if I've a spare digital camera you can have for nothing. 

[zoothorn]

32 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

I'll have a look and see if I've a spare digital camera you can have for nothing. 

 

Now that is very kind Onoff.

[zoothorn]

One final pic & I can almost sign the thread off.

 

In meantime a Q on plasterboard: can those cheaper pB lifters, lift 15mm Fireboard ok? (i think is it? my BO recommend me to use re. sound)..

 

..& a very special musical interlude while I wait for cam batts to charge:

 

 

Thanks zoot.

 

 

[joe90]

4 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

can those cheaper pB lifters, lift 15mm Fireboard ok?

it’s sound block you need but I prefer to double board with 12.5mm board, even more sound absorbency (and easier to do). I only used a Pb lifter recently (after years of struggling) bought it second hand and the job was a doddle on my own and sold it again afterwards fir what I paid for it.

[zoothorn]

2 hours ago, joe90 said:

it’s sound block you need but I prefer to double board with 12.5mm board, even more sound absorbency (and easier to do). I only used a Pb lifter recently (after years of struggling) bought it second hand and the job was a doddle on my own and sold it again afterwards fir what I paid for it.

 

Hi joe90.. thing is my BCO has effectively told me to use 15mm pB (& I think he said it was called fireboard? or similar). He's very insistant with materials he's specifying in this room, after I squeezed him to let me go 50mm PIR / 22mm floor.  I don't want to double the cost of 12.5mm pB really, and, double the work of me doing it not having used a lift before. Its a fine idea tho, & ideally I'd take your advice.

[Onoff]

That blue Soundbloc board weighs just over 40kg per board.

 

This sort of cheapo lift has only a 40kg capacity:

 

 

The "better"  types have around a 68kg capacity:

 

 

You also want a plasterboard carrier to save your back amongst other things!

 

 

[Bitpipe]

Ask him what colour it should be. Blue is the heavy soundblock, pink the fire retardent, green moisture resistant and grey standard. From memory they were all 12.5 mm thick so you could mix and match easily.

[Russell griffiths]

If this is a workshop he will probably want the fire board wouldn’t he.