Zoot EXTention- now.

[zoothorn]

Render last 2 days:  my idea was countoured 'stone effect' to blend in with cottage: done (reluctantly!) with skill & care, & results better than expected.

 

Today 2x windows, french double-doors, lower door (inc slate sill [pic below] to match adjacent new window).

 

Racing on: scaffold down in a few days.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 28, 2019 by zoothorn

[nod]

Looking good Zoot

should match in nicely when painted 

[zoothorn]

Thanks nod.. its all coming together nicely. The render has lots of plastic white vent things in, won't these be visible once painted white-? I've not seen these things before.

 

 

[Declan52]

46 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Thanks nod.. its all coming together nicely. The render has lots of plastic white vent things in, won't these be visible once painted white-? I've not seen these things before.

 

 

They are vents. You have to have them in so they ventilate the cavity.

[zoothorn]

3 hours ago, Declan52 said:

They are vents. You have to have them in so they ventilate the cavity.

 

Shame. the vent holes will be black against the white/ stand out surely.. I can understand the odd 1 or 2, but the 3 walls are peppered with em.

[Hobbiniho]

looks great i always think that a wooden box or die straight render on the side of an old house looks horrible, good on you for sticking to getting it to match

[zoothorn]

I was surprised 1st the builder, & his plasterer agreed tbh.. 1st one he's ever done not flat in 40 yrs so he had to wing it he said: & below the 2x doors its quite 'pacific ocean' OTT & the back wall too, but covered by balcony below 2x doors, & a fence (most of back wall).

 

I might sand down some bumps tbh/ all rather too even & too big in-out. he did it best starting off (front wall 1 door, 2 windows side) thankfully tho. Is it feasable to sand down render to flatten the humps?

 

 

[zoothorn]

Anyone know how far down render usually goes on the 'plinth', down to the dpc layer, or below it a few inches?

[Mr Punter]

2 hours ago, zoothorn said:

Anyone know how far down render usually goes on the 'plinth', down to the dpc layer, or below it a few inches?

 

It is not a good plan to render over and bridge the DPC as water can track via the render.

[zoothorn]

2 hours ago, Mr Punter said:

 

It is not a good plan to render over and bridge the DPC as water can track via the render.

 

Sorry does that mean 'down to the dpc but not below it'? (what is the bridge?)

[Onoff]

2 hours ago, zoothorn said:

 

Sorry does that mean 'down to the dpc but not below it'? (what is the bridge?)

 

What does a bridge do? It crosses something, in this case he means don't cross the dpc with render or damp can track up the render where it can freeze and blow the render:

 

http://www.guardianpreservation.co.uk/news/32-damp-proofing.html

 

Ignore that the wall constructions in the link might be different to yours.

[zoothorn]

Well it was a good idea I asked, bc that link is flippin marvellous info Onoff thanks: actually I have a few damp problems & terrible condensation..  but another day/ now I was rather upset by the man's beard though: refusal of mustache-within-beard-parameters = I dont trust a word he says!

[zoothorn]

Windows, french doors now in. I seem to have little width of the frames to play with inside.. so cannot line reveals with insulation, just pB onto timbers (& even so I'm only 25mm away from glass). Is this a problem-?

 

Solid pine t&g ledged/ braced door: is it normal to tell the client to 'paint it & the frame before we hang it'? I can't imagine mrs. miggins at no73 being asked to do this.

 

 

Edited December 2, 2019 by zoothorn

[zoothorn]

Can anyone lend me a hand- I don't have enough window frame inside the room, to do as I did in kitchen: line the reveal sides with insulation + plasterboard ontop. If I do I'm 1cm away from the glass/ too close & looks wrong.

 

Why windows fitted like this I don't know: if as meant to be, or too much whittled off sides to fit the opening (I suspect as much but if I ask my builder why I just get a lie/ no point asking).

 

If I call the BCO & ask 'if needed?' & he says YES then I'm forced to = awful window reveals.. so I'm inclined to just do whatever I can before checked over by him.. but the question is will it be a cold ingress area? will it negate the wall insulation? is it a total no-no to just pB onto the timbers?

 

thanks zoot.

[Declan52]

Any chance of a picture.

[PeterW]

On 02/12/2019 at 13:39, zoothorn said:

Solid pine t&g ledged/ braced door: is it normal to tell the client to 'paint it & the frame before we hang it'? I can't imagine mrs. miggins at no73 being asked to do this.

yes as decoration isn’t included in your price ..??

[PeterW]

52 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Can anyone lend me a hand- I don't have enough window frame inside the room, to do as I did in kitchen: line the reveal sides with insulation + plasterboard ontop

not needed - kitchen was solid brick/ block so that was to stop condensation. With the TF there isn’t this issue and the cavity just wants closing off with some insulation and then a DPC. Easy enough to staple this to the frame then board over the top. 
 

Is this being plaster skimmed or board and tape ..?

[zoothorn]

3 minutes ago, PeterW said:

not needed - kitchen was solid brick/ block so that was to stop condensation. With the TF there isn’t this issue and the cavity just wants closing off with some insulation and then a DPC. Easy enough to staple this to the frame then board over the top. 
 

Is this being plaster skimmed or board and tape ..?

 

Hi Peter- but when you say 'not needed.. just wants closing off with some insulation' I'm a bit confused as this is what my Q is about (IE I find I don't have room to add any, with the 12mm pB thickness too).

 

Taper-edges board & taped. No funds left to plaster.

 

Condensation is a huge problem on kitchen windows.. but I don't blame anything I did or didn't do re. the reveals.. because like the general house cold battle my heaters cannot possibly win (eg I often see my breath with -2- electric htrs on in a room!!) the condensation is so huge I nevered expect lining my kitchen would make any inroads (pools of water on sill each morning at the mo: the norm now = worse than before dare I say it).

[zoothorn]

53 minutes ago, Declan52 said:

Any chance of a picture.

 Sorry no- my cam is not working when i need it to.

 

I have 5cm to the glass from timber reveal side. So 37mm (going 25mm + 12mm pB) which is on the join of the glass inner section (remove area).. so too far.

 

Surely any builder should give enough room here so there's no constrain when it comes to the interior stuff around it?

 

 

[PeterW]

You need to close the cavity - there will be a small 50mm cavity between the block and the timber frame. That needs closing with insulation and then a DPC over the top. 
 

Then just attach the board direct to the timber frame. It will be fine as the TF will not create anywhere near as much condensation risk as blockwork. 

[Roundtuit]

1 hour ago, PeterW said:

You need to close the cavity - there will be a small 50mm cavity between the block and the timber frame. That needs closing with insulation and then a DPC over the top.

 

 

Worth agreeing a cavity closure method with BCO;  I think the cavity may need to be closed with a fire-stop.  A typical method would be to use 50mm batons around the window fixed to the timber frame before the outer skin goes up, set back to allow some insualtion to be fitted in the cavity.  You may need to find another method of acheiving the same.

[PeterW]

Agree with @Roundtuit - you can also use glass fibre “sausages” that push into the gap too as a fire break and insulation combined. Think @TerryE used something similar. 

[TerryE]

49 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Think @TerryE used something similar. 

 

Yup these comply with current English BRegs. I've got some pics on my blog.

[zoothorn]

On 04/12/2019 at 13:39, PeterW said:

You need to close the cavity - there will be a small 50mm cavity between the block and the timber frame. That needs closing with insulation and then a DPC over the top. 
 

Then just attach the board direct to the timber frame. It will be fine as the TF will not create anywhere near as much condensation risk as blockwork. 

 

[Sorry I only just seen the replies 4/12 onwards.. no notifications (this is a constant issue, & leads to complications if X replies/ I do not see/ & quick assumptions made that I just ignore advice given). Mods: is there a solution to this? I do get notifications, but only I'd say 50%. I have the 'notify' box correctly checked.]

 

Hi PeterW- first you sday I need to put insulation, then you say just attatch pB to the timber frame.

 

So I'm left just as confused as to what -I have to do- from a B.regs point of view (my BCO is ill or I'd call). I have to do my stuff to B. Regs, presumably, unless you are suggesting I do s'thing that is not/ & not seen/ BCO don't need to know basis-?

 

If I have to put insulation, I can't, so I have to tell builder to take out all windows.. this I cannot do without massive repercussions (probably £1k to 2k's worth of retalliation against me/ to balance cost of him doing it). If I don't have to: great (but won't it be cold tho)?

 

 

 

 

[zoothorn]

On 04/12/2019 at 15:30, Roundtuit said:

 

Worth agreeing a cavity closure method with BCO;  I think the cavity may need to be closed with a fire-stop.  A typical method would be to use 50mm batons around the window fixed to the timber frame before the outer skin goes up, set back to allow some insualtion to be fitted in the cavity.  You may need to find another method of acheiving the same.

 

 

So is it normal I have only 50m to glass? or should a builder be making it say min 80mm or whatever? surely there HAS to be a minimum figure here or he'd not be able to put insulation > he'd be in same boat as me if he were to be doing inside work.

Edited December 11, 2019 by zoothorn