Russell griffiths Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 I was going to comment @AnonymousBosch But since you insulated me the other day with your over thinking it comment I think I will refrain and keep my obviously correct answer to my self. Oh sod it, it must be my good nature. I have found with most most things if you make a cock up you end up chasing this cock up on and on, far better to look at replacing something to get back on the right track. I would look at that roof flashing and get one re,made with a larger projection so you can continue your cladding up and finish it under the roof like it’s meant to. Strip iy off and put it right, don’t chase this bodge all the way around as it will haunt you somewhere else. What happens at the corners. Have you got your details correct at ground level. Can you do one of your Picasso style renditions of the bottom. Cheers russ. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted October 2, 2019 Author Share Posted October 2, 2019 34 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said: [...] Strip it off and put it right, don’t chase this bodge all the way around as it will haunt you somewhere else. What happens at the corners. Have you got your details correct at ground level. Can you do one of your Picasso style renditions of the bottom. [...] Dont chase this bodge ... What you cant see (because I haven't shown you) is the context. The photograph shows the flat roof area in front of the house - effectively a flat roof extension in front of a 'normal' house with a 'normal' roof. What is abnormal - is the quality of the block work (vertical misalignment mainly) - almost everywhere. So, as usual you are bang on correct, I need to think about the effect of any remedial work on the cladding for the whole house. At the moment, I'm thinking of continuing the 'window cill' remediation around the rest of the house. What happens at the corners? Exactly. The thinking (and thats as far as its got) we are planning to 'frame' the cladding with a bit of vertical 2 by 2 (chestnut maybe?) such that the chestnut protects the end grain of the cladding boards. The window cill will need to cap the vertical off too. (Diagram of the corner detail to follow) details correct at ground level ? Thats what keeps me awake (a bit - getting used to the stress levels now). As @Ferdinand says in his signature line, Cod is in the Details . Doing a quick sketch is my way of getting my head round the issue. Thanks very much for your support. Much appreciated. Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 1 hour ago, AnonymousBosch said: Doing a quick sketch is my way of getting my head round the issue. I always do that, give us a sketch of the roof/trim detail (preferably with dimensions). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epsilonGreedy Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 What was the original designed projection of the roof relative to the blockwork face before the pro bodgers introduced a 35mm vertical inwards lean? I assume the flat roof has a slight gradient that is not towards the wonky wall hence rainwater drips off the roof lip depicted are minimal? p.s. Do you know this thread has condemned me to frostbite this evening. I will now have to remove my blake brickie profiles from the garage this evening at sunset, click the vertical button on my line laser and measure how plumb my walls are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sue B Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 The other possibility I can see for the really “proud” areas is a bit of heavy duty sanding down. The strength is in the concrete not in the woodcrete so bits of sanding in strategic places could possible reduce the extent of battening out. Glad to see that Russel agrees that replacing the roofie bit is a good idea. Maybe one day I will become a “hands dirty” self builder ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 23 hours ago, AnonymousBosch said: Early in the build, before I became a nasty, snarling cynical bastard of a self-builder, I allowed the people who worked for us to get away with very unprofessional work. This episode (the first of a good few, I suspect) is about how to cope with a wall whose vertical and lateral profiles bear more than a passing resemblance to a banana. Everyone winces when I point it out. Everyone. Even that polite Mr @Stones when he dropped in (for a laugh) Can't take a joke? Shouldn'a started then should I. Here's the picture: Its our front wall; capped off with some Evalon V and a capping strip. Here's a diagram - a vertical profile. As you see from the picture, we have yet to clad our front wall. The drawing is a first stab at what to do. The problem is simple. The wall is so 'bent' that any cladding fitted closely to the wall at the bottom would end up 'overshooting' the capping strip at the top of the wall. So I propose to fit a window cill (- like) piece of wood at the top of the wall but under the bottom of the capping, and to protect that 'cill' with some form of metal or plastic profile. The end in mind is to create some wriggle room in which to compensate for the sloppy wall construction. The red line in the drawing is the intended metal or plastic profile. Is my design proposal sensible? If so, what type of profile should I use? Those details look sound to me, I have been looking at cladding manufacturers websites and note there are a plethora of sill strips and base finishing strips and all sorts - all of which do the same thing - step out and create a drip edge further out than the cladding. I quite like the folded metal ones with the plastikote stuff on them. Lead would look good if done well, if a little expensive as a detail - I had to buy lead a couple of weeks ago for the roof and I must admit I do enjoy working with it but it and you can get some nice finishes with the right tools and nipping edges over and what not. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 4 hours ago, AnonymousBosch said: I was thinking that a Tupperware flashing would be cheaper, lighter and less hassle. Thanks @SteamyTea Wait, what about a bit of a rethink - go for a secret gutter detail type affair - even if you don't actually need a gutter in it (is that roof pitched?). Frame it out, gutter to take the drips then just clad your wall as you would making it square and worry not about the banana. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted October 2, 2019 Author Share Posted October 2, 2019 Thanks for the replies folks. Too tired / tipsy to reply sensibly. Wife is away and I'm in the pub. ? Tomorrow / Morgen / Domani / Crastino/ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 10 hours ago, epsilonGreedy said: p.s. Do you know this thread has condemned me to frostbite this evening. I will now have to remove my blake brickie profiles from the garage this evening at sunset, click the vertical button on my line laser and measure how plumb my walls are Better hope it’s more accurate than the Manufacturers tolerance of 0.25 degrees on vertical ... or 10mm in 2.3m.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epsilonGreedy Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 56 minutes ago, PeterW said: Better hope it’s more accurate than the Manufacturers tolerance of 0.25 degrees on vertical ... or 10mm in 2.3m.... The DeWalt Web site claims 3mm in 10m. A 10mm error in 2.3m would render the whole product category useless. So far I have mainly used it to check wall height consistency. I can always go low-tech and use a plumb plus gravity, just need to buy one First. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 9 hours ago, Carrerahill said: Wait, what about a bit of a rethink - go for a secret gutter detail type affair - even if you don't actually need a gutter in it (is that roof pitched?). Frame it out, gutter to take the drips then just clad your wall as you would making it square and worry not about the banana. This sounds like a really neat solution, that wouldn't look like a bodge, and would give plenty of space to level the cladding. The other big advantage would be that increasing the roof overhang would make any remaining small discrepancies far less noticeable. When things are close together any minor misalignment seems far more prominent than when they are further apart. I'm really glad I opted for big overhangs with our roof, as they hide the natural waviness of the wide board waney edge larch cladding very well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 1 hour ago, PeterW said: Better hope it’s more accurate than the Manufacturers tolerance of 0.25 degrees on vertical ... or 10mm in 2.3m.... Lovely typo in the Bosch website .... should be 0.025 degrees ..!! So more acceptable ..! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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