Pocster Posted August 21, 2020 Author Share Posted August 21, 2020 5 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Take it to the grave with you. ? All good from what I’ve seen / heard. ? So if I tell you there’s just 3 blobs of ct1 under there it’s ok ? To my grave it will go . I did do one thing Nick . On the Marine ply I scribbled nick from wales was ‘ere Then when it leaks and a proper plumber takes the tray up he’s bound to ask “ which joker installed this ? “ There will be your name ... ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 21, 2020 Share Posted August 21, 2020 16 minutes ago, pocster said: Had a session ( joke for @Onoff there ) with my PT Paper Towel obviously. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 21, 2020 Author Share Posted August 21, 2020 And so my thoughts move to @Onoff ‘s favourite subject - tiling . How do I line these horizontally ? What I mean is do I avoid a grout line over the toilet flush ? Over the shower controls ? Does it matter ? . What tiling ‘rules’ should I follow . Tiles are SWMBO choice ( obviously ) . Though I do like the subtle honey comb effect Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 21, 2020 Author Share Posted August 21, 2020 Quick question . I believe Mastik won’t stick to cured Mastik . Fresh ct1 WILL stick to cured ct1 ? ( just thinking of the 2 rounds of ct1 around the tray ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 21, 2020 Share Posted August 21, 2020 What NOT to do: I should have moved everything up a bit to avoid the silly, time consuming rips at the ceiling. Jury's out for me on putting fittings in one tile. I did for the shower controls. For the flush plate though I didn't. Dead easy to cut 4 squares out (though this 10mm off): 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 21, 2020 Author Share Posted August 21, 2020 2 hours ago, Onoff said: What NOT to do: I should have moved everything up a bit to avoid the silly, time consuming rips at the ceiling. Jury's out for me on putting fittings in one tile. I did for the shower controls. For the flush plate though I didn't. Dead easy to cut 4 squares out (though this 10mm off): Yeah the rips I get . I have a sloping ceiling so if I do get rips i want them at the highest point of the ceiling not lowest where they are visible . Intend to tile first ‘round’ half a tile or so off the floor . I’m guessing though as toilet and shower on same wall I can’t get an arrangement that has a whole tile on both . I might need to ‘play’ and pick a compromise . So ! On the walls do I stick adhesive all over and notch ? - back buttering the tiles ? . Seen videos where they just dot and dab .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 21, 2020 Share Posted August 21, 2020 11 minutes ago, pocster said: On the walls do I stick adhesive all over and notch ? - back buttering the tiles ? Wrong person to ask mate! ? I seem to remember going OTT with adhesive, notching the wall in one direction then the tile in the other. I was squeezing more adhesive out from the joins than eventually held the tile to the wall! The one thing I forgot was to back butter the tiles when I did the wet room corner. I just notched the floor. (Mind I forgot to add fibres to the slab). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 21, 2020 Author Share Posted August 21, 2020 9 minutes ago, Onoff said: Wrong person to ask mate! ? I seem to remember going OTT with adhesive, notching the wall in one direction then the tile in the other. I was squeezing more adhesive out from the joins than eventually held the tile to the wall! The one thing I forgot was to back butter the tiles when I did the wet room corner. I just notched the floor. (Mind I forgot to add fibres to the slab). One thing confuses me . If there’s so much adhesive squeezing out it can knock other tiles . Also you need to clean that all out the gaps where the grout goes . So you are kind of making a f ing mess . See what the welsh boss says .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 21, 2020 Share Posted August 21, 2020 (edited) 19 minutes ago, pocster said: One thing confuses me . If there’s so much adhesive squeezing out it can knock other tiles . Also you need to clean that all out the gaps where the grout goes . So you are kind of making a f ing mess . See what the welsh boss says .... Big mess. I imagine with experience there is a sweet spot that minimises waste. I would, 100%, use a tile levelling / gapping system on the walls and floors next time. If there is a next time. Worst bit of the bathroom both in doing it and how it turned out. I reckon I'd be alright if I was apprenticed to someone for a bit. You can see why bathroom fitters and tilers earn so much! ? Edited August 21, 2020 by Onoff 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 21, 2020 Author Share Posted August 21, 2020 2 minutes ago, Onoff said: Big mess. I imagine with experience there is a sweet spot that minimises waste. I would, 100%, use a tile levelling / gapping system on the walls and floors next time. If there is a next time. Worst bit of the bathroom both in doing it and how it turned out. I reckon I'd be alright if I was apprenticed to someone for a bit. You can see why bathroom fitters and tilers earn so much! ? Will use a wall levelling system don’t worry about that . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 21, 2020 Author Share Posted August 21, 2020 11 minutes ago, Onoff said: Big mess. I imagine with experience there is a sweet spot that minimises waste. I would, 100%, use a tile levelling / gapping system on the walls and floors next time. If there is a next time. Worst bit of the bathroom both in doing it and how it turned out. I reckon I'd be alright if I was apprenticed to someone for a bit. You can see why bathroom fitters and tilers earn so much! ? You can be my apprentice- learn and watch the master in action . ?? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 21, 2020 Share Posted August 21, 2020 6 minutes ago, pocster said: You can be my apprentice- learn and watch the dungeon master in action . ?? Eek! ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 22, 2020 Author Share Posted August 22, 2020 First round of ct1 around tray edges . Took a whole tube . Left each side so it drops . Then go over it again . Leave that now ready for Monday and ct1 with ‘ up stand ‘ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 22, 2020 Share Posted August 22, 2020 53 minutes ago, pocster said: First round of ct1 around tray edges . Took a whole tube . Left each side so it drops . Then go over it again . Leave that now ready for Monday and ct1 with ‘ up stand ‘ Tres bien. As for tike adhesive, just butter the wall, enough for 2 or 3 tiles ( maybe more once you pick it up ) and put x number of £2 coin sized blobs of adhesive on the back of the tile. This will give plenty of adhesion and allow you to use the same principal as used for laying the tray, eg pushing the tile in and squashing the blobs until each tile is minted lamb. Don’t butter too much wall at any one time as the adhesive has a much shorter working aka “open” time when spread thinly on the wall Beware to use a level, vertically, as you go up the wall, as this method will see you slowly coming out away from the wall as the courses rise. Keep that in check. Check course by course. You need a bucket of clean water and a nice soft sponge + small paint brush to clean each grout line out when you get a bit of ‘ooze’ coming through. As you go, you’ll quickly get a gauge of what is too much / not enough and you’ll ooze less ( that sounds so wrong ). Every 10 / 15 tiles laid, prise one back off and check how much % of contact you’re maintaining. 60-70% is ample, and panic yea not about gaps at the edges, just ram the grout in, when you get to that stage, and the corners will be just fine. As far as cuts, where to start / stop etc, work it out so prominent features get the most sympathies cuts. @Onoff says he’d have raised the bottom cut higher to get rid of the rip at the ceiling. I think that would have been worse when you look what that would have done to the cut under the window 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 22, 2020 Share Posted August 22, 2020 Next time... herringbone! 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 22, 2020 Share Posted August 22, 2020 27 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Tres bien. As for tike adhesive, just butter the wall, enough for 2 or 3 tiles ( maybe more once you pick it up ) and put x number of £2 coin sized blobs of adhesive on the back of the tile. This will give plenty of adhesion and allow you to use the same principal as used for laying the tray, eg pushing the tile in and squashing the blobs until each tile is minted lamb. Don’t butter too much wall at any one time as the adhesive has a much shorter working aka “open” time when spread thinly on the wall Beware to use a level, vertically, as you go up the wall, as this method will see you slowly coming out away from the wall as the courses rise. Keep that in check. Check course by course. You need a bucket of clean water and a nice soft sponge + small paint brush to clean each grout line out when you get a bit of ‘ooze’ coming through. As you go, you’ll quickly get a gauge of what is too much / not enough and you’ll ooze less ( that sounds so wrong ). Every 10 / 15 tiles laid, prise one back off and check how much % of contact you’re maintaining. 60-70% is ample, and panic yea not about gaps at the edges, just ram the grout in, when you get to that stage, and the corners will be just fine. As far as cuts, where to start / stop etc, work it out so prominent features get the most sympathies cuts. @Onoff says he’d have raised the bottom cut higher to get rid of the rip at the ceiling. I think that would have been worse when you look what that would have done to the cut under the window Tbh lowering the CEILING 40mm was the option I perhaps should have taken! So many "ifs"..... 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 22, 2020 Share Posted August 22, 2020 Start on the wall you won't see when you first walk into the room maybe, do your "training" on that? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 22, 2020 Author Share Posted August 22, 2020 1 hour ago, Onoff said: Next time... herringbone! You bone who you want ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 22, 2020 Share Posted August 22, 2020 Are you doing the vertical joints in line (like mine) or staggering them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 22, 2020 Author Share Posted August 22, 2020 1 minute ago, Onoff said: Are you doing the vertical joints in line (like mine) or staggering them? Inline . Got to be easier . But not like yours ; mine *will* be inline ? 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 22, 2020 Share Posted August 22, 2020 2 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: @Onoff says he’d have raised the bottom cut higher to get rid of the rip at the ceiling. I think that would have been worse when you look what that would have done to the cut under the window I could have maybe "hidden" a joint behind the towel rail and had a deeper tile below the window? I find a lairy blind can help take the eye off of numerous cock ups... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 22, 2020 Share Posted August 22, 2020 4 minutes ago, pocster said: Inline . Got to be easier . But not like yours ; mine *will* be inline ? Treading on the shoulders of giants, you are! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 22, 2020 Author Share Posted August 22, 2020 2 minutes ago, Onoff said: I could have maybe "hidden" a joint behind the towel rail and had a deeper tile below the window? I find a lairy blind can help take the eye off of numerous cock ups... That blind would distract rnib 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 22, 2020 Author Share Posted August 22, 2020 4 minutes ago, pocster said: That blind would distract rnib I’d miss the pan slashing looking at that . But that’s why you have a wet room . So wee finds a drain , ignoring the yellow stained floor grout 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 22, 2020 Author Share Posted August 22, 2020 5 minutes ago, pocster said: 8 minutes ago, Onoff said: I could have maybe "hidden" a joint behind the towel rail and had a deeper tile below the window? I find a lairy blind can help take the eye off of numerous cock ups... Your rubber ducky bath buddy looking well (expletive deleted)ing miserable ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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