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Water flying past gutters


AliG

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I thought in today's heavy rain I would check how the guttering is coping.

 

We have two areas where water runs from guttering onto the roof and then down to another gutter.

 

In heavy rain so much water is coming down that it just flies past the gutter.

 

There are also areas where the water is not running away fast enough, can I just get the builder make the holes bigger to the downpipes, they look quite small at the moment.

 

To stop the water flying past, could we cut back the edge of the tiles slightly, or do we need some way of slowing the water down?

 

Should I also worry about such a large amount of water running down the roof, other than that area sometimes getting dirty, I don't see any ill effects so far.

 

Or should I not worry about it as it rarely rains this hard?

 

Edited by AliG
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See this a lot. Is there a shoe on the other downpipe or gutter that is causing the overflow ..?? Turn it at about 60 degrees to the roof so it casts the water sideways. Should slow the flow down. 

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At the front we have a flat roof with a box gutter that doesn't have downpipes it just exits onto the roof. At the back it is a gutter that exits onto the roof and I think we could add  a small downpipe.

 

I would have to replace around £1500 pounds worth of guttering so was hoping for a cheaper fix.

Edited by AliG
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2 minutes ago, AliG said:

At the front we have a flat roof with a box gutter that doesn't have downpipes it just exits onto the roof. At the back it is a gutter that exits onto the roof and I think we could add  a small downpipe.

 

I would have to replace around £1500 pounds worth of guttering so was hoping for a cheaper fix.

 

Got a photo of the outlet from the box gutter ..?? Could possibly do some diversion on it. 

 

How many downpipes on the main run of gutter that is overflowing ..?? And what’s it made of ..? 

 

No need to replace everything just yet - always ways of making this work ..!!

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In both cases the run is around 10m of 125mm linden guttering with a downpipe at each end.

 

Cant add new downpipes but I think the box gutter could be directed onto the cashing and not the roof.

 

Is that hole a standard size running into the down pipe or can it be made bigger?

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That hole is tiny ..!! Should be 65mm or wider to match the downpipe. 

 

Can recut it fairly easily using the original hole cutter mounted inside the new one on the same mandrel. 5 minute job with the right tools. 

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1 hour ago, AliG said:

I thought in today's heavy rain I would check how the guttering is coping.

 

We have two areas where water runs from guttering onto the roof and then down to another gutter.

 

In heavy rain so much water is coming down that it just flies past the gutter.

 

There are also areas where the water is not running away fast enough, can I just get the builder make the holes bigger to the downpipes, they look quite small at the moment.

 

To stop the water flying past, could we cut back the edge of the tiles slightly, or do we need some way of slowing the water down?

 

Should I also worry about such a large amount of water running down the roof, other than that area sometimes getting dirty, I don't see any ill effects so far.

 

Or should I not worry about it as it rarely rains this hard?

 

 

He should have put a kick on the roof 

Dorry doesn’t help you now

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Only just saw the video.

 

Right at the start, what is that mass of water running down the roof about 4 tiles in from the end?  Is there some form of valley further up putting a lot of water onto one point?

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You could move the brackets up slightly to try to catch the main flow rushing off the roof. 

Can you get to the outlet of the box gutter to reduce its opening so there isn't as much rushing down the roof but still letting enough through do it doesn't back up.

A pic of where that comes onto the roof would help.

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At the pub. Will get a picture of the box gutter later. I suspect certainly that a box gutter is easier to alter.

 

We have around 70sq metres of zinc roof above the hall with a wide deep box gutter around it that drains into the roof at each end.

 

That’s where the mass of water is coming from.

 

The gutter is enormous so I reckon you could easily slow down the exit of water with much risk. 

Edited by AliG
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10 hours ago, PeterW said:

That hole is tiny ..!! Should be 65mm or wider to match the downpipe. 

 

Can recut it fairly easily using the original hole cutter mounted inside the new one on the same mandrel. 5 minute job with the right tools. 

 

That is a really good tip, @PeterW. Thanks.

 

My experience with hole saws has sometime not been a happy one. :$

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12 hours ago, AliG said:

In both cases the run is around 10m of 125mm linden guttering with a downpipe at each end.

 

Cant add new downpipes but I think the box gutter could be directed onto the cashing and not the roof.

 

Is that hole a standard size running into the down pipe or can it be made bigger?

Is that Linden or Lindab guttering. If it's Lindab it can't be cut with power tools only with hand tools. I cut the holes in mine with tin snips the same size as the downpipe diameter.

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Box gutter pics, I cannot get a good pic of the end where the water is running off onto the roof so I also took a pic of the other  side.

 

The first video is the front of the house above the garage, the second video is the back above the pool.

 

I had a look at the holes in the gutter. The hole at the front is way larger than the hole at the back. Despite having to cope with more water that gutter was not overflowing. So that is easily fixed, the builder can cut larger holes. Indeed one reason I checked was the gutters had just been cleaned and the guy who did it said that he thought the holes were too small.

 

I do think that something to slow the exit of water at the end of the box gutter would help. The box gutter is so large that it never appears to have that much water in it so you can allow it to back up. I am thinking some kind of plate across the gutter with a small gap below it so that water runs out with a maximum rate but if it backs up too much it would go over the top of the plate.

 

At the back of the house the water coming down the roof is from the end of the gutter above. One end of the gutter has a downpipe and the other end is open onto the roof. It might be necessary to put a downpipe onto the end or something to direct the water across the roof and not straight down.

 

I think we can maybe slightly pull the end of the gutters out to catch more water also. I notice at the back the grout between the paving slabs has gone in the area below the gutter where the water hits the ground so it has been happening before yesterday.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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1 minute ago, PeterStarck said:

Is that Linden or Lindab guttering. If it's Lindab it can't be cut with power tools only with hand tools. I cut the holes in mine with tin snips the same size as the downpipe diameter.

It is Lindab, it was powder coated to match the windows. That makes sense as the larger hole at the front is not round, it looks like it has been hacked out of the guttering

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I asked Lindab about this and it referred more to using jigsaws and recip saws that tend to pull and bend the steel. The one I saw done they cut with a hole saw and then also bent a couple of “ears” into the hole to promote the water dripping into the down pipe. I think they also used some cold galv paint on the cut edges too. 

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There are two, one with the garage doors under the guttering and one with a window below. They both pretty much show the same thing with water coming down the roof so fast it flies straight over the guttering.

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7 hours ago, PeterW said:

I asked Lindab about this and it referred more to using jigsaws and recip saws that tend to pull and bend the steel. The one I saw done they cut with a hole saw and then also bent a couple of “ears” into the hole to promote the water dripping into the down pipe. I think they also used some cold galv paint on the cut edges too. 

In Lindab's instructions it states that cutting with power tools will prevent the natural creep of the galvanising back over the cut edge which I think is due to the metal heating up when cut with power tools.

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