Redoctober

Our studs went in first and we even glued one set of studs as this was fitted after the screed was poured. You will see from the images, the bottom of the studs are protected and the manifold is already in place. Hope this helps.

An update - thanks to @joe90 I contacted the installer and he has confirmed the flue will be coming out of the stove at the rear, so this will push it forward some mm's which in turn should improve the look beyond it's current situation. I have to say, the service I have received from the installer has been well below expectations - but as we all know, we live and learn!!

Massive thanks @joe90 - I will certainly mention this to the installer ahead of the final set up phase. ?

It is a Wiking Mini 2, 5kw w/b stove. Thanks

It is the appropriate type of render applied by the installation team, so I'm hopeful it won't crack!

Thanks @ProDave @PeterW @joe90 and @Cpd - Here is an image which hopefully will show how far back we have to have the WBS in order to achieve a vertical flue. The chimney is straight so no problems with bends etc with that.

We have a chimney which is to service the WBS when it gets commissioned in early December. Unfortunately the builders positioned the hole for the register plate too far back in the hearth area causing the WBS to sit further back in the "hole" than we would have hoped for. I have spoken with the installers and they say there is nothing we can do to bring it forward. I suggested a double 45 degree bend flue pipe set up but he said because it is a chimney and not a twin flue system, the pipe needs to go vertically from the WBS to the aperture in the register plate. Now, once I have been signed off so to speak is this something I could fit retrospectively or is it a complete no no ? Thoughts welcome.

Likewise. Great looking house but let's hope the door is only a temporary feature. ?

Spooky, just booked ours for the 27th Nov. Should be interesting. The thing he wanted to know beforehand was our SAP Calculation. Pre-built it was 83 - is that good bad or indifferent I wonder?

Plus 1 on this recommendation - we dealt with Luke and he too is a top bloke - they designed, built and erected our oak framed car port and porch.

Yes, on the face of it, the budget does seem a bit tight. A 3 bed house - probably 140sq metres at least I would say - Rough guide - £1k per sq metre build budget - [this will require a lot of work to be undertaken by the client], doesn't leave a great deal for land and services. Perhaps more details of the intended house, location of plot, and it's orientation might help.

What you decide to put upstairs for heating may have an impact of which type of joists you choose. Some structural engineers may insist on web joists if UFH with a biscuit screed is being planned for.

@newhome and @ProDave thanks. I have applied for a temporary habitation certificate so will await the result. We will be looking to move into a completed house. No work left to do, so in not sure if that has any impact upon which route I take with regards to insurance.

With regards to insurance, I decided to do an internet search for House and Contents insurance. Our address is already registered with Royal Mail and the systems allowed me to obtain a quote for a new build property. Is there any reason why I can't go ahead and get insured without a completion certificate? The systems never asked for one.

@Ian Please add me to that list for a PM with details. Thanks.

Cheers @Onoff - exactly that. The block wall was built internally and "popped" out at the roof line, in readiness for the stones. The single storey building is our utility room and the room to which it joins, is the kitchen.

Guys, sorry for the delay in getting back to you but the stone wall you are enquiring about was built on to an internal block wall. That wall was then plaster-boarded and plastered. As you will see from the attached images, the doorway into the utility room from the kitchen, the recess is quite deep. Not a problem for us but thought I would just highlight it.

The dormers have just started to be clad in wood. We had hoped to render them but it proved to be too problematic. Happy with the results nonetheless. We do have a date stone, courtesy of the stone man. and that is already in situ. Photos attached.

Yep it does. The hose coming out of my inlet was simply there to fill the tank up with water in order to assist with weighing it down for installation purposes. Perhaps others more knowledgeable could assist.

Hi @Christine Walker Ours is now safely and securely installed - The electrician, who failed to show all last week is due to site Monday 5th Nov to wire it up amongst other second fix installations. Unfortunately, other than what I have already posted, I haven't any other guidance - sorry.

@TheMitchells thanks very much for your warm comments. Much appreciated. ?

Yes, if that price quoted is the actually price then steer well clear. I hired our loo for £25 per week which includes a weekly service. It has been well used by all and even when it ended up on its back recently due to exceptionally high winds, the hire company had a replacement on site within 90 minutes.

Crimewatch!

Yes, I too was surprised the drainage system didn't go in at the foundation stage but was guided by our builder. Not sure there is a right or wrong way but I was concerned that the weather would not hold up by the time they were put in. Guess he was lucky and got away with it! The surface water runs off to the existing field drain discharging eventually into a nearby water course.

Could you not fit a drainage channel which then runs into the main rainwater system? An example of which is here - https://www.drainage-channel.co.uk/