Kelvin

They are just cut flush with the floor. 10mm is a big difference to try and resolve. I agree with @JohnMoget them back to sort this.

Normal to add them at all door thresholds reduces cracking at the narrowest points in the screed. We had one room where the level was higher on one side than the other by a few mm. Was easily lost in the tiling. Did they use wee spider levels all over the place to get the levels right as an extra 15mm is quite a lot. That would have buggered up my ffl if ours had been out by that much.

How else does the BCO want you to do it? Our standing seam roof is on 50mm battens too. It’s open at the eaves with insect mesh wrapped around it. We cut a slot in the ply either side of the ridge so that it can circulate out. You sometimes see an open ridge cap to serve the same purpose but our roofers said that’s an older way to do it.

I assume you mean CO. The burn process, in theory, produces just CO2. I wouldn’t have one in the house frankly. https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2014/09/140903091728.htm

Have you tried any of the talking therapies to try and deal with it? It’s almost impossible for any of us to answer if something as you describe will help to be honest. Could you have something mocked up say in a colourful wallpaper temporarily stuck to the wall to see if it helps before committing to something. It could make it worse by drawing your attention to it for example.

You can’t be accounting for 25% of a substation that has 33 houses on it. It’s not difficult to understand it’s impossible and the DNO should be able to see that. You only get any sense out the DNO when you make a formal application because they then have to do the correct survey/design work rather the desktop stuff that produces a load of nonsense.

He’s not trying to be representative. I know many farmers. All of them have said that he’s done more to highlight some of the challenges farmers face than just about anyone else.

Plenty big enough. Mine is < 5m2 plus about the same again space in the garage.

As noisy as a Dyson hoover ? Our Q350 has a gentle white noise hum.

The units themselves are generally quiet. It’s the correct attenuation on both supply and extract that needs careful thinking about.

I spent ages pondering this simply because if it falls apart down the line it’s not that straightforward to replace! The GRP cabinet will see me out unless it got mullered somehow which is why I built it right on the edge of the boundary out of the way. There was a better place for it nearer the house but was convinced it would get driven over.

Yes belts and braces with the tanking as paranoid about water damage and timber kit.

Ah I see. I just used moisture resistant plasterboard that was fully sealed at the joints and tanked. Saved any messing about with different boards.

Apart from the seal I mentioned my GRP is solid.

Personally I think they look a little cheap. A fully tiled bathroom just looks better to me.

I have something like this. Nice and simple. https://www.screwfix.com/p/hilka-pro-craft-fuel-transfer-siphon-tool-10mm/219PG?tc=UC4&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw-O6zBhASEiwAOHeGxfNemsw8U96sWkdqCMAYqGm9g0vvOgiI-btJeX1JyQxj6SifdxWWLxoCF_IQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Use a syphon pump.

You can point the ducting any direction you like obviously. I used 3 x 38mm diameter hockey sticks. One in one out and one spare just in case. However that was a mistake as it made getting the thick unwieldy cables in chuffing hard. I should have used corrugated smooth wall stuff so don’t do what I did. I also just used 3 bags of readymix concrete. It’s perfectly fine and made a really nice base. They never followed the instructions as you say.

Your property is sold as a whole though. House, land, outbuildings therefore the issue still stands. To remedy this will cost money therefore it will affect the value of your property. Anyone buying your house will estimate how much it will cost to make this good and reduce their offer by that much. Normally you can take out an insurance indemnity for such things but because you’ve notified (or been notified by the council) you now won’t be able to. As far as what the council will do like @JohnMosays they could issue an enforcement order I guess telling you to either make good or remove the work done. They might do nothing of course but unlikely. If that’s the case the other option is to leave it until you come to sell. Declare it then and factor the cost to remedy into the value of the sale. Your cheapest option is very likely to ask someone locally to come and do the minimum required to take the building back to the state it was in before you started the work. It is a waste but you changed a building without seeking planning approval and a building warrant first. These are the rules we all have to play by. Speak to building standards, explain your health situation and ask them what is the minimum you need to do to unwind the building back to its previous state. You might find them more reasonable than you expect. The people I’ve dealt with in my ward have been nothing but helpful. Sorry to hear all of this though. Can’t be easy to deal with.

If normal means automatic summer bypass then yes. Designing in cross ventilation is important. It’s proving very effective in our house.

Clarify with builder what he expects you to do. That will determine what you do next

It would have to be declared. If you didn’t and sold it and then it was discovered after the fact the new owner could sue you for any costs. However, it’s more likely to be discovered during the conveyancing process and could make your house unsellable.

It’s an interesting debate. We had it too. How accessible to make the downstairs loo. We’re in our late 50s and relatively fit (just completed the Cateran Yomp a few weeks which is 54 miles in under 24 hours) This is likely our last house so we will be old (hopefully) at some point. I also have a joint pain/soft tissue pain problem that I’ve had since my 20s. By and large it’s not been too much of a problem but will likely disable me as I get older. In the end built the downstairs loo for now rather than later but the walls are all framed with OSB for attaching grab handles and loo could be adapted or changed. The shower we made big enough to get in if you had some difficulty with movement but easy to adapt. Same with all the kitchen units. Everything low down is drawers not cupboards.

Yes full fill. With the full build up it was 0.11 as I recall (calculated using Changeplan)

I did. 280mm Knauf Frametherm 32