CalvinHobbes

Apparently an F7 or Merv 13 catches not just cooking oil but covid. I recently had it in the house we are renting and isolated in a bedroom. It did occur to me if I was in our new build my covid would be pumped throughout. Hence the f7 filters will now be going in everywhere.

Sorry for all these questions. Ok so we currently use Virgin and they are fine, I am not a loyal customer though, we normally change every 2 years. In our new build if i get them then what later if I want to use one provided by openreach. Should I use BT or sky first? Thinking of keeping as many opetions open. Thinking of what size of conduit should we leave? Also the 6a cable. what brands to buy which to avoid? I know to get shielded? Thanks

So the plan in writing is this,get cables in the right places before the plasterboarding/ plastering starts and worry about what happens at the ends after (when we see what £ we have) Go easy on me!!!! Heads deeved watching you tube about this lol. Ground Floor Entrance Hall 2 Access Points: Each access point requires 2 cables. Total: 4 cables but only 2 need to go to access points, others can be tucked in behind so will count it as 2 for going into rack. Main Living Room TV Area: 3 cables for the TV Computer: 2 cable Total: 5 cables but only 3 need to go to the full way, others can be tucked in behind so will count it as 3 for going into rack. Utility Room Solar Inverter: 4 cables (two to external electric cabinet and two to server/switch) Total: 4 cables but only 2 need to go to the full way, others can be tucked in behind so will count it as 2 for going into rack. Granny Flat Computer: 2 cables TV Area: 3 cables Total: 5 cables but only 4 need to go to the full way, other can be tucked in behind so will count it as 4 for going into rack. Guest Bedroom TV Area: 2 cables Computer: 2 cables Total: 4 cables but only 2 need to go to the full way, others can be tucked in behind so will count it as 2 for going into rack. Upstairs Access Point Access Point: 2 cable Total: 2 cables but only 1 needs to go to the full way, the other can be tucked in behind so will count it as 1 for going into rack. Bedrooms (3 Bedrooms) TV Area: 2 cables per bedroom Computer: 2 cables per bedroom Total for 3 bedrooms: 6 cables for TVs + 6 cables for computers = 12 cables but only 6 need to go to the full way, others can be tucked in behind so will count it as 6 for going into rack. Den TV Area: 3 cables Computer: 2 cables Total: 5 cables but only need to go to the full way, others can be tucked in behind so will count it as 4 for going into rack. Additional Requirements PoE Camera PoE Camera: 2 cables Total: 2 cables but only 1 need to go to the full way, others can be tucked in behind so will count it as 1 for going into rack. Doorbells 2 Doorbells: 2 cable each Total: 4 cables but only 2 need to go to the full way, others can be tucked in behind so will count it as 2 for going into rack. Summary of Cable Requirements Ground Floor: total cable lengths/cable attached to rack + string to pull through Entrance Hall: 4/2 cables Main Living Room: 5/3 cables Utility Room: 4/2 cables Granny Flat: 5/4 cables Guest Bedroom: 4/2 cables Additional: PoE Camera: 2/1 cables (thinking of using reolink) Doorbells: 4/2 cables #Total28/16 Upstairs: Access Point: 2/1 cable Bedrooms: 12/6 cables Den: 5/4 cables Total 19/11 Total Number of Cables Ground Floor Total: 28 cable runs but only 16 cables attached both ends Upstairs Total: 19 cable runs but only 11 cables attached both ends So presuming we need a 48-port switch and patch panels but no clue what to get and need to keep the price super keen. The network switch will be located in is in the hallway between the 2 front doors. Lots of steel in the building, block walls downstairs, wood stud upstairs and posijoists. Was thinking of using zigbee since its low cost, lidl, ikea, aldi all offer products at a fraction of the price of ubiquiti although I know its better. Any thoughts?

Thanks, I have gone to great lengths to get over this. I have parascended, been on gliders, a microlight, up the Alps to the peaks, I go on a Cessna including banking on it, all fine..but a ladder or landing I can get really dizzy. It makes no sense. For example I can't go to the front of upstairs in tk max with it's glass railing. I also once fell backwards on an escalator on Debenhams, a poor man caught me. Good idea about mock up.

I thought I could feel different but if anything it's getting worse, I hate heights. So we have a staircase that returns but bottom floor height is 10ft and our ceiling upstairs goes double that. I am thinking I will struggle to walk along landing. I think there was an episode of the house 100k build where they used polycarbonate to make a colourful wall. Still would have bannister but what if we framed a colourful wall behind?

So I am paranoid about holes in the external walls,especially now the cavity has been pumped. So am I allowed to hang pictures onto the skimmed block? What about curtain poles? I guess that 3m tape might work for a canvas...

So wondering is there a way we could do a fold up bed on a pully from the supporting stud wall? Just to make it more loft/studi is with maybe even room for a mini kitchen (daughter 21) She has a door to terrace and a tiny ensuite. The fuzzier phot is looking at her end, her ensuite is just behind wondow on left in clearer pic

We are in the deep end and it's still nuts. At first fix and bills are atrocious. I just can't see it getting any better, does it ever?

I am in bed with covid since sitting is too much, planning our network (will run it by you shortly for your wise advice) but he said if he was doing his own again he would use cat 6a and run minimum 4 cables to tv's. By away my covid started on Thursday with just a sniffle, I felt well. Went to asthma clinic on Friday (haven't used inhalers in a year but knew i felt tight) and doc said 'you might have covid, test if you want but I don't know if there is much point, it's everywhere'. I tested thinking nah, but it was positive. Now going upstairs is too much. Problem is it does vascular damage, it does matter - spreading it is crazy. Anyway, rant over, deffo going to look into hepa filtration now for the house. I wonder can I add it?

Any update? I hope you got good news.

Which recirculating extractor do you have, what is the noise level and do you cook many frys?

Popped into site, what is this thingybobber? Jeekers, builder told me we would be hard pushed to be in by christmas but we will be and plastering would be 17k, 3 men 4 or 5 weeks and that is just for labour. He said screed takes 5-6 weeks to dry. Gazooks

Hello, which refrigerant would you opt for and are there any brands/models of ASHP that you would stay clear of?

So we managed to buy quite a bit of amtico from auctions through ibidder and it's arrived and looks good. OK still have to get it laid but got a lot off. First experience of using an auction but apart from the note to self - picking up from Sheffield is the pits because access was so bad, overall a good experience.

I was put off installing an alarm since if you tell your insurance company you have one and it wasn't set when you were burgled they can decline to pay out.

I think maximum 5 although thee is an option for it to be sited at 10m. Would these lengths be suited please?

Would a 5* 10 square cable give us 22kw?

That's an internal photo and the other side of that lintel is external onto the porch. The builder is saying he will effectively make another wall outside.

Iceverge what are you thinking, should the door move? How hard would that be to do? I know the frame is hardwood. So bring it in a bit? I am looking at that plan and am unsure.

The Building control officer also pointed out we were not using approved plans which was 'not great'. Like yikes!The ones we have from the architect were blessed by a structural engineer so I hoped would suffice and as the bc said, they are allowed (didn't sound ecstatic). Anyway I found some older pics and here is the part of the plan too. TBF I do appreciate the bc flagging up things, the builder assured me he had a plan to deal with it anyway and was sorry he missed the BC officer.

Hello, sheesh thought I would come on and ask advice yet again. Building control was out and said we appear to have a massive cold bridge at door. So the metal beam goes over the door and connects to another that meets a post going up (was that a wind post) so forming a sideways L shape shape. The cavity is behind it. Bit scunnered tbh. There was a change of builders and the second ones are having to fix things . Bah. Feel free to tell me something good.

Quick question. Cladding sides of house with corrugated, down to first floor level. Below will be rendered. Should the blocks under the cladding have a coat of anything? Obviously doing air tightness from inside anyway. If so what?

Tremendously appreciated! I have sent him your comments and will report back.

I keep thinking that too. Anyone recommend a mechanical services engineer?