flanagaj

Surely a SE will not tell you what nails to use.

Do you know whether they require a specialist foundation underneath the concrete slab?

Unfortunately, they are not my thing. I don't like the central spine. I am now contemplating cast concrete stairs, but if that comes with it's own requirement regarding having to have a special concrete floor as opposed to sitting on the 150mm slab we have proposed, then it might be back to the drawing board.

Anyone able to tell me whether there is much difference between the two above nail guns? The 360Xi has higher Joules, but the IM350+ appears to be more expensive. Just want a nailer that will good for all of the first fix that I need to do. Thanks

Unfortunately, I just would not feel comfortable doing that job myself.

Has anyone investigated pre-cast concrete stairs and if so, do they too require a lot of structural engineer input in relation to the walls / floor makeup of the house? I originally was thinking about a floating staircase, but this requires the mounting wall to be significantly beefed up. So now, I am wondering whether a pre cast staircase could be a better option. In fact, given we want an industrial look to the entrance hall, it might actually be a better option.

My original plan was to save time and simply install a 125mm slab with UFH attached to the rebar mesh and then get a company to pour and power float the concrete. That would be the floor finish across the whole ground floor of the house. But now I am wondering whether a) Will I find a company who are good enough to create a power floated finish that will be acceptable as a finished floor, without having to have it polished? b) How do you protect the floor as the brickies will be throwing down block and brick remnants as they build up the internal walls? So I was wondering whether it might be easier and work out similar in cost, to pour the slab without power floating and then apply a 10mm (not sure if that is the depth) micro cement finish. Keen to hear if anyone has done this.

Our pole was moved on Wednesday and now sits nicely on the boundary. Next step is to get a connection, but I'm unsure as to the best option for the meter housing, as there is currently no house and we will need a supply so we can live in a static caravan. Is it a case of installing a temporary housing near the pole so a meter can be fitted and a consumer unit added and then accepting that I'll have to pay again to have the meter moved or should I just get someone to build a brick housing for an external meter unit. There is currently no walls or anything that I could use.

I was thinking about this again, and am simply going to ask the architect to design a cold roof. I think I can fit the MVHR in the plant room and as long as the ducting is underneath the 400mm blanket of insulation I think it will be ok. Unless I am mistaken, this approach will also mitigate the associated air tightness complexities that I would have had with PIR?

Yes?

@Gus Potter I have no issue with paying for your time and would not expect otherwise. I am currently just trying to deduce whether taking the currently planned 4" ground floor block wall that is proposed and laying the blocks flat will suffice. By doing that, I have already tripled the block bill for the wall. If said wall then needs to run up through the fist floor as well, then that is going to add quite a bit of extra cost. There is this company (Oak floating staircase treads including steelwork STAINED BLACK £3950 PLUS VAT | eBay UK) selling the kits. Which for the treads and steelwork is actually not that bad. But it's the structural aspect of the supporting wall that for me could be the deal breaker. A cast concrete wall using forms and steel, could be done diy, but it's a big job and the risk of not getting formwork correct, will be an expensive mistake. If for example, it was simply a case of laying blocks flat up to the first floor, then I know upfront what the additional costs will be.

I am thinking of paying these for a design (Contact & Services - Home Design Tutorials Ltd). I am struggling to find an SE who can do the calcs and their design service will be useful when sending out the quotes to local fabricators. TBH there is no reason for a floating stair case to cost a lot of money. It's a joke what some of these companies are charging. Take for example, the oak treads. They can be manufactured using a mitre lock bit and a router table and oak. If you have access to a router table, saw bench and a planer thicknesser, you could save a fair chunk making them yourself.

Can I ask whether your block wall was just single height or did you also have to carry it up through the second floor to provide some serious weight to the wall. I’ve just engaged with an SE and she says she cannot help with the structural calcs for a floating staircase.

That was my thinking after I was sort of steered in the direction of private building control. Private by the very name, indicates a business aimed at profit. Where as LABC is not a charity, but is operated on a different model.

I have used LABC before on a renovation and I did find them very helpful. They were always willing to provide advice and guidance. I am concerned that by going down the private route, I won't get that luxury.

I have just taken out the Protek Structural Warranty policy and opted to use private building control. They use a company called Stroma and their introduction was basically an email with absolutely no pleasantries, which went along the line of "supply these documents" Now I am thinking or binning them before the 14 day period is up and switching to LABC. At least with LABC, I know they answer emails and get back to you. Has anyone had any experience of Stroma BC?

Not without increasing the ridge height and I am reluctant to put in a change for that at this late stage.

Thanks for explaining the build up detail. as I am most likely going to go with trusses, I don't think I can use the same build up as you have. Point taken regarding the solar, but sadly, we have either a north facing roof or a south facing roof, so I think the decision is made on that one. I am sure it will grow on us using the clamps. I was hoping that we won't require a steel ridge beam. The technical architect hasn't made mention of it and I am still trying to find an SE who responds to my request for a quote.

That's not possible. I only have 2350mm of ceiling height as it is.

Fair point regarding the amount of time I actually have. Trusses will be much quicker and make it easier to install the insulation. It's the air tightness part I am struggling with. If you use wool, then that is obviously not going to perform as well as PIR which is taped along the rafters.

It's all turned into a bit of a farce. Roof has always been planned as a standing seam, but now we want to add solar. I was hoping to fit the solar panels using the GSE mounting panels, so this sit nicely into the roof, but getting the flashing detail correct, does not look easy. The cut roof was to simply save money as I was going to cut it myself. My time is free as I get a good amount of annual leave. But that said, if cutting the roof adds complexities elsewhere, then I may have to just go with trusses. Only reason I opted to insulate between the rafters was so that we could have MVHR in the loft and I could board some of the ceiling floor for storage. It's too low for anything of use.

MVHR pipes and I don't like vaulted ceilings. What is the U Value difference between mineral wool and PIR?

My mistake. 150mm celotex between the rafters and then 150mm below the rafters. eg

Can anyone advise here. Our architect has specified 150mm celotex between the rafters and then 50mm between the rafters, finished off with VPL and a plasterboard skim finish. The interesting thing is that the roof space has a maximum height of 1.2m to the underside of the ridge and it's not a vaulted ceiling. So not sure why there is plasterboard and a skim finish. Any ideas as to what I can say to this. Yes, I am getting a U value of 0.12 W/m2K, but that is not actually achievable.

I need to submit a variation of condition for the following items. 1) fenestration style change 2) driveway entrance width reduction 3) single garage parapet height increase 4) front door / garage door change from oak to aluminium I also want to discharge the schedule of materials condition. My concern here though, is that the 'schedule of materials' condition relates to the original planning grant and as a result I cannot start showing the windows that we are planning on using, or the front door and garage door as they won't match the style shown on the original drawings. My concern, is that if I need to wait until they have (hopefully) approved the variation of condition before submitting the schedule of materials condition, I could be waiting 4 months. Any pointers?