Jenki

UPDATE: ITS ALIVE😅😁 I purchased a different USB drive, because when I read some of the reviews on the first one they made me think it was possibly the USB drive, as I looked under a microscope at all the capacitors etc. and tested them and none looked blown etc. anyway. Great result - the newer USB drive works like a dream, all files are there, I have a replacement motherboard coming so hoping that I can just plug in the SSD and it will boots as a PC.🤞 but for now the files are safe, and I have ensured that Google Drive is backing them up....

Does anyone know anybody that might be able to recover data from an M20. NVME Type M key SSD main drive? My pc went pop and took the drive with it, I've tried a USB adaptor and the drive shows in Disk Manager, but without any capacity so assuming a hardware fault due to the spike. Data recovery companies seem to be way too expensive route. starting £400. any suggestions? Any budding electronic guys able to float the NAND chips of, resolder and extract the data?

👍This.

Bigger machines tend to be cheaper, i.e a 5 ton or over, 3ton and less tend to have a premium as you can tow these with a car / truck. you'll only have to transport it once to site. Don't forget Big machines are way more fun😄 https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/862980039433580/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3Ac613b793-7289-40dd-b38f-23a385b4addc&__tn__=!%3AD 7.5K https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1322188182925413/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3Ac613b793-7289-40dd-b38f-23a385b4addc&__tn__=!%3AD

Silicone 100%

I had never power floated, but budget said I had to try. and it was a fail. a few factors that didn't help: 1, It was really warm, yes highlands and it was 26deg. 2, not enough people. I had help from a neighbour and son, but they just helped get the concrete in, once in they left, leaving me and the wife. There just wasn't enough time to get the edges hand floated and the floors power floated. It wasn't terrible, just not good enough, ended up having to level compound some of the edges and grind a few high spots. so we opted for LVT. I one day might revisit and look at DIY epoxy.

Does anyone no of a model of split air conditioning that is ceiling mounted and can fit between 600mm spaced trusses. I.e. 570mm max width? Ideally a pre charged external unit. Never thought I'd have to think about this in the Highlands, but sat here now, no heating has been introduced to the house since April and it's 27deg inside🥵. I don't want to go down the route of cooling the slab as the days change so rapidly weather wise by the time it gets cool might want it warmer.

The more frugal tradesman, I know a few, have been laughed at having one of these in a van, but keep the receipt, abuse it, and return it 11 months later for a replacement. My Titan breaker has been going strong for around 6 years now, its changed shape slightly over the years but every year I put some effort in and it comes out looking like new 🤫

I built to a very tight 'budget' around (25% less). We had just over 50k on the bank when we started. However at that point I had been planning the build to the details @JohnMo describes, i.e. designing out all the features that cost more, (no hips, valleys, large structural openings). We also had all our services in, (treatment plant, water, electricity and most importantly planning, building warrant and certificate of design) . Timber frame airtightness costs a lot of money, and even if this is part of the kit follow on trades will do their best to ruin that good work due lack of understanding or CBA. We did all the work ourselves, hunted around for bargains and made choices based on cost and needs not like to haves. We switched to ICF, a big learning curve,.but I'm convinced we would not have been able to build to the levels we achieved (EPC A 103) with the same costs. Realistically we spent circa 70k internals all but finished decorated etc.for 89SqM. So be realistic,.how much are you doing..

This looks like a future problem in the making.. debris WILL collect here and no way of rodding, can you install a silt trap or inspection chamber where the tee is? find one with different invert levels.

That's probably the best thing they did for you, you wouldn't modify a rafter for a vent. The Timber work is poor, GRP messy. not great

You can get single and double Adjustable bends that might help, also you can get tight 90 Deg bends if space becomes tight

Possibly Yorkshire board cladding

I found a "Eco" treatment, that is water based, basically a sachet of crystal substance that you mix with 5 gallons of water. It must chemically react with the Larch, as you can see it change colour when the sun hits it as your treating it. It was a little more Brown than silver initially but 12month in the cladding even on the North is uniform and silver, and does look like its been here years (A look we were after, didn't want the Orange fading to silver in patches look ). I think it only cost £60 for the whole house.

I love the silvered effect of Larch, and you can even buy very expensive treatments to speed up the process. MY tatty old house will never need a coat of anything in my lifetime and no offence taken. Sarking 6" and Wall plate 4" boards in 4.8 m lengths treated are the most cost effective solution I think the 6" boards are £6 a length. I've clad an external shower / WC block and painted with shed paint to good effect.