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Correct. As suggested by my chippy. And total cost was just under my £100/metre budget

I went with the full length bench - built just a week before this thread was started!

Ah ha! Found the issue. The boiler clock was 2 hours ahead (and one year behind) so although the thermometers were asking for heat up to 10pm the boiler had already gone to sleep Panic over!

With some form of multi-plexor? The D1 mini only has 11 digital inputs so I'm wondering how you did this.

Both have a towel rail only. Do the job ok unless the mvhr is in boost it seems. I will try and tweak the thermostats positions so they are more sensitive to the cool air bring drawn in. Will also contact @bpc ventilation for other ideas

So its getting colder and my partner likes a warm (21-22degC) ensuite to get ready for bed. But we also both like a cold bedroom to sleep in (so no heating elements and currently 18.5deg). Sometimes I like to have an evening bath or shower in the family bathroom. All fine but for one point: when I have a evening bath it seems the MVHR runs at boost to vent my bathroom (good) but at the same time it is sucking the heat out of the ensuite and dragging the cold bedroom air into the ensuite so my partner complains. Am I at fault for trying not to have the whole house at the same temperature? And does a MVHR inline controllable valve exist (I can easily splice into the ensuite's extract)?

Agree about the bolts! Why are they so dam long?!

Yes but it seemed to compress a bit when putting back in. So helping to make the cross talk gaps bigger. Was pretty clean except for a few flies that had got past filters.

My partner started frying some onions in the kitchen, while I was upstairs, I was amazed that the onion smell came out of the fresh air vent in the room I was in. (my partner had previously commented that when I burn the toast she can smell it from the fresh air vent in her ensuite bathroom with the door closed) Anyone else experience similar? note my own investigations of my MVHR suggests there a sealing issue allowing some 'cross-talk' but before I fix it I was wondering if this smell transfer is normal?

Quite fiddly! Luckily I decided to buy the log burner very early on so we could build the house around it! The Acer Oakdale did not have an option for a bottom air feed so my Hetas engineer got this adapter made up which slips (sealed with rope) a matching metal square tube that goes into the sub floor void. This floor metal tube was chopped into the beam and block floor before the insulation and screed were installed (you can just see it behind the black tube in this photo covered in grey tape )

While not for those with near or true passivhauus, I've been very pleased with the little 5kW room sealed log burner I've installed in our large open planned kitchen/dinner/living room. It's only been installed for 3 weeks and now we can start using it regularly we are doing and it works a treat, especially as we can modulate it down nicely. Sealed air feed from the void under the groundfloor suspended beams fed by numerous external air-bricks. Looking forward to the real cold nights so we can let it roar a bit. An Acer Oakdale in Buttermilk - I didn't choose the colour...

I can't recall where I got this idea from but have been amazed at just how useful it is to have a light with light switch in the airing cupboard.

Ordered this in the end: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B019V6XBTU Ta for heads up @Temp Will report back if any good. Can I claim the VAT back on it?

Landscaping beginning at last. Would like to be able to detect vehicles approaching our property. What is suitable wiring to create a vehicle detection induction loop? Note the road way is not tarmac but a rough farm track made of chalk, stone and mud - how can I make an induction loop strong enough to withstand this installation? Or is a another way more suitable e.g. ir camera, magnetic sensor, etc?

I've been quoted very often that 12mm was acceptable - but after a while I learned that the 12mm refers to the deflection (sag) after 50 years! Can you kindly tell me where in the BS Regs joist deflections are given, ta

I have a 41 page MiTEK Industries pdf relating to the design of my first floor posi-joists. Just wondering if someone is able to help me read the report to find the expected vertical deflection for a 50kg person walking across the floor. Or even if this value is known since only 3 load cases appeared to be considered: Load Cases Considered: : 1 Vibration Check As EC5 NA.2.6 : 2 Long Term Floor Dead+Floor Imposed : 6 ScreedFlo Construction load Dead Anyone a posi-joist 'expert'? Or is there a stated acceptable floor flex anywhere? (Sorrry I won't go into the history of why I would like to know this data) Paul

No idea if any better but this is what I have from John Guest (fyi that really is a hostess trolley - so maybe we are not trend setters!)

Would be curious to know what a view down a bit of ducting looks like if you have a spare moment. If that looks good I'll happily replicate here

Cheers for the idea, just tried it with a short version I already have, going to need to work out what lens I need.

My worse case bends are probably a radii of twice the pipe diameter so around 150mm, so I think should be camera/cable friendly but there are some 2.4metre vertical sections - however it is primarily the first floor vents I'm interesting in which have no vertical sections.

While searching for the microphone cable I realized the 6mm solar semi-flexible cable I already have will probably work

Is it a cable that can be 'pushed'? As I'm assuming for a bore hole you are simply dropping the camera down suspended on the cable so no need to 'push' it? Many thanks

Thanks Jeremy. I think I can do something similar but I'm just curious what radii the steel cable will go round as some of the runs are convoluted. Oh and what cable is it? Or where did you source it please?

Any suggestions how to look at all of the MVHR pipework? (System doesn't 'feel' as effective as did prior to house blower test and have a small fly issue from one vent) Just wondering if I can push a mini wifi camera through the pipework without straining the pipework - most radi not too bad once camera got into pipework from room vents. Would a drainage camera work? Other ideas?

If you are bored now its done, feel free to pop over to Lincolnshire... :-)