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Disappointingly I can not find any photos to answer this

http://www.mitek.co.uk/Products/Posi-Joist/Posi-Joist-Handbook/ States: Posi-Joists™ can be designed to include single sided Posi-Strut™ webbing where appropriate to provide considerable material savings. So single sided seems ok.

Yes, nearest the camera is joists that make up the floor that bounces most annoyingly - you can just see the chimney. I'm going to try measuring the flatness of the floor using a rotating laser level as a reference - though with carpet and underlay down it is going to be tricky to note less than a mm but now that I can see the difference just across the bathroom door gap I think there will be something I can measure

The centre of the joist span is very approx under the door hinge. With the wall being about half a metre to left of this photo. (It's not that simple because of chimney breast etc)

My partner's bathroom is part of the floor I'm at issue with. She just informed me the door gap looks odd. The door does not natural open or shut so I'm taking it as being a true vertical. And assuming the door bottom is 90degree to the vertical then this looks like confirmation the floor joists are not installed correct. Other reasons ?

My Parkside mini tool has been very good, but the chuck is shot now. Anyone know if Dremel chucks are interchangeable? I reckon it is M8 x 0.8mm pitch

Looking closely I can actually see the long LED filament has blown - on this Crompton bulb the brightness increased and then it went out altogether a few seconds later Chasing supplier now

Consider house alarms now. Didn't pre-wire house so all a bit retro. So a radio based solution has some merit. Ideally as well as a few motion sensors and door/window open sensors inside it would be great to have a few outside. While maybe I can rig up a data cable to the gate 25metres from the property it would seem better to make that radio based and then I can extend it to my drive entrance 150m away with the right tech. Thinking beyond that with the right tech I could start to monitor our farm too. LoRaWan interests me a lot for such a task - anyone with LoRaWAN experience? Any dev kit recommendations? Ta Paul - a techy

Got lots of Crompton and Tigra(?) LED bulbs where the LED filament is shown in warm white around 5-7.5W, yet 3 of them blew in 36 hours. Anyone else experiencing LED bulbs blowing? The blown bulbs, flashed on and off for a minute or so at about 2 Hz before giving up. Switching on and off does not 'reboot' them. Leaving the blown bulbs on and the bases remain warm (as if the power converter is still running). Note bulbs all blown at night (so can't blame my solar installation I reckon)

Fish rope?

My aim off starting this post was to truly identify what the cause is and and therefore who was at fault so the issue can be 'discussed' (don't want to say more than that for the moment) Thanks all

3 days now after a few days of prolonged heavy rain and I've still got a damp patch on my SW facing gable/chimney. The 4 chimney pots are blanks filled with various stuff (as supplied by builder) over a lead tray but I fear the pots are collecting water. Before I suggest this to the builder are there likely to be any other reasons? Thanks

Unfortunately I don't know and the various photos I have are not that clear on that detail. The joist hangers used do not seem to have the two round holes shown in PSD05 - should the joists be screwed/nailed through these holes (if they exist)? The drawing does not seem to state if screws should be applied or not through these holes

The power line is one option to remove the data and tonight I could see via a phone app that the wifi just makes it to various parts of the garden fence where the gates, etc are so maybe I can avoid the data. Or as suggested might be the simplest if I route data cable to avoid worse of the traffic. Great suggestion thanks. I also found that NICE do 24Vdc powered gate motors though I can't find what current they need - given 25metres from gate to potential transformer location that could be a hefty cable!

Only the sub layers are down so far so ripping it up and starting again might be best option but I was trying to avoid that. Unfortunately I did not see how the repair was made, but I do know the duct has water in it now - plus the pull cord is broken anyway. I was rather hoping to just push swa down it!

I did do that and got the response 'you expect too much'

Ah, I've tried to measure this using a laser measure from the floor upwards some time back but all it really told me was ether the floor was sloped from one side to the other or the skimmed plasterboard was not put on with even thickness.

They are indeed into joist hangers - I think the builder proposed these to help limit drafts into the thermal envelope No idea if pre-cambered or not, difficult to assert now I fear.

Yep our wardrobe doors do exactly that :-( I'm at a lost who to question builder gave the job to the merchant who used a local posi-joist manufacturer and they used software supplied by MiTek - who I think own the posi-joist design.

Subject to a prior post about whether my duct is safe for mains 240vAC SWA, are there any tips to run SWA and CAT5/6 cabling alongside each other for 20m?

I have a 50mm duct running 20m from my garage to my drive gates where eventually I will have a RPi camera, some LEDs and maybe a auto gate opener. The duct is cira 4-500mm down with marker tape. But it got ripped by a digger so we had to bodge a joint I can't therefore guarantee the water tightness of the duct any longer. Is it viable to run swa through this duct?

So I'm still trying to get to the bottom of why we have to tip-toe across our master bedroom otherwise the floor flexes causing all manner of things to move. Anyone able to tell me what the MiTek software used in designing PosiJoists 'Vibration Checks' section is trying to explain please?

Hows it going with the TheRock64?

Wet or dry towel?

Noise. I can hear mine running around the house. So at night it goes down to just trickle, we have the windows open any way, then at 5am comes back up to normal mode. Which is handy as I know roughly the time of day without needing to open my eyes and look at phone etc. When it is parge mode (ie 100% power, that I use for extracting paint fumes etc) it is more noticeable but not really terrible.