Ferdinand

You need to get taken seriously. Talk to them about giving notice to move it off your land. Perhaps ask them on a query what the procedure would be, and how much notice you need to give. And ask for alternatives suggestions that they would propose to meet both your requirements. That should start it moving and get you noticed in their system. if you haven't. you also need to get to grips with Necessary Wayleaves and the rules around them.

Mine - working *with* the wayleave, was 12 months notice of intention to give notice, then 3 months notice for them to do it. But I had poles. Without the notice? No idea - but perhaps allow 1 to 2 years. Though mine was about 100m of our and back cable highish voltage routes that fed most of town, and they had to dig up about a mile of alternative routes half and half under farm tracks and the former A38 for the new route. F

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Thanks all.

Have to admit that I really object to paying for click and collect, so I normally get it via the showroom. When they are open.

Also options such as hit and miss to give wind permeability. (And it doesn't necessarily have to be a huge construction like @Onoff's - that is to keep him in.)

You need to consider whether it will count as a "Backlands" development (single property built behind the line of all the rest along the street), what the policy is on that, and how you will address it if so. F

Why don't they deliver? My local Ikea says it does deliver. What is it about your bit of Lancashire that has scared them off? Shoulda called it "Hampster Cottage".

You need to consider what happens re: refusal, Appeals and so on - if you do one you would probably need his continued advice. Also how you will handle the supply of drawings and models to other professionals.

Cheers.

Quick one. If a Private Building Controller chappie does a 1st Stage Inspection (Foundation?), is that accepted as evidence for the piece of paper (Lawful Development Certificate?) that a Planning Permission is locked in? Cheers F

Welcome. You eat something scarlet and take a pee.

Is that not in theory what BRE is supposed to have done? Perhaps what we actually need is for LABC to commission the testing. The "construction research" setup has been very ingrown for decades - eg the Partners in Innovation programme where the DTI used to require research proposals from consortia covering research organisations and industrial partners. Which means that everyone knows each other and has to wear multiple hats in different settings. That may be too integrated. Some orgs even overlapped into regulatory or semi-regulatory roles - writing standards etc.

I think there's a further big question here, as the NHBC seems to have possibly caved in to the legal threats (by my interpretation). Also from the piece: BTW Inside Housing allows regstration of free accounts that lets you see the whole article. https://www.insidehousing.co.uk/home/home/kingspan-threatened-legal-action-against-nhbc-for-raising-concerns-over-non-compliant-insulation-68732 F

Fire Sprinklers reqd in blocks of flats over 11m. Into force today. Hmmm.

I have Surestops (water offswitch like a blue light switch) in my house.

I am not sure on that. They cover all sorts of unforeseen circumstances as long as it is an insurable risk. So don't get your hopes up but investigate. eg Chancel Tax Insurance is like an indemnity policy, and lack of a FENSA cert of 2G windows can be covered. I have one where someone made a drive from a footpath without having a known right to drive over it, and it covers me against loss of value on the house if for some reason it gets blocked up in the future. OTOH I didn't go for Chancel Tax insurance as I know the church building is relatively modern and am reasonably familiar with the policies of the Diocese. OTOH it may be better to have the possibility there as an ace in the hole in case it gets mentions and you need a sticky plaster to solve the concern in case they are worried about it. F

You now have lots of multiple-choice advice, and need to decide what to do ? . Best of luck with it all. The centipede was happy quite Until the frog in fun asked "Pray, which leg goes after which?" She worked her mind to such a pitch she lay distracted in a ditch considering how to run.

You ask your solicitor.

Would an indemnity policy cover this? Did you try offering one to the previous potential purchaser. I think it would work as the risk is insurable imo.

Yep. All fine. The doors thing is nice if you can do it, but quite liveable without.

If you are going to move washing from one to the other (obv they will be capacity matched for a full wash?), then you want both doors to open to the sides not the middle. ie LH hinge on the LH machine, RH hinge on the RH machine. Otherwise you have to lean back with an armful of washing to get round the door of the one that opens to the middle. On the other point you could gain space by stacking the washer and dryer. In that case you put the washer above so you are moving wet washing downwards. The corollary would be a loss of worktop. Pros and cons.

And put something to help it move under your washer ?

Shiny side of hardboard (either way up - lack of friction may be best against the floor). Or a bit of chequer-plate. Make it deeper than the washer, and perhaps cut a "handle" in it. Or perhaps something with a "spring up lever" at the back? Problem there is if it sticks you won't get it back out ! Once it is out you may have the space to fit a 600 x 600 x 8mm floor tile in the space to make it slippery. eg in white https://www.tiletown.co.uk/en/alaska-white-floor-tile Can be expensive per sqm but you only need one tile, which I get for about £12 from the tile shop. Also under fridges.

Make sure that your tap is high enough to fill the biggest thing you may want to fill. Do you need a tall cupboard for brooms and things? (Could do that by moving sink slightly to right and having a shorter worktop on the left). Think about lighting under worktop if you will be doing close work there (eg topping and tailing gooseberries or gutting fish etc). Make sure that the washer and dryer doors open to the outside so you don't have to troll your items round the end of a door to dry them. Are you having a wash-pulley in it, or drying washing? If so you need an MVHR outlet. F