Ferdinand

That is, if there are any of the bits of the Capris left.

And move mount Everest 3 miles to the left whilst you are at it.

Find some interesting people to talk to. Or build something. Make a steel Christmas Tree out of .004% of the junkheap.

Keep talking to the officer and read the comments. You can update docs and designs as consideration proceeds.

Need to select your slabs carefully, and check it. Pressed Council Slabs come in at 120kg per sqm. I wonder about river pebbles rather than gravel, and see if they can be cleaned with a pressure washer. Buy one or two bags for a trial. If they are going to get dust and lichen on, then buy the colour they are going to turn - NOT white.

Welcome.

LiebHerr do a plumbed in one. https://blog.liebherr.com/appliances/au/liebherr-icemaker/ Worth a look. No idea about built in freezers. If you have a LiebHerr, you want Mrs Jones to see it.

LBB th Thread: The detail I used for my existing suspended floors. Note this is wall rads not ufh. For UFH I would want more insulation - probably 75mm not 25mm PIR over the floor. Given that my final restriction was being able to trim internal doors enough (limit was about 60mm), I might be forced to go PIR between the joists if I was not able to do things to doorframes. Calculate the u-values. The other option is to seal the void to moisture and fill it with polystyrene beads. May cause BCO to have kittens. Calculate your u-values against what you need. Further discussion on this Boffin's Corner thread about the build up: Ferdinand

We have LOADS of threads about that ? . One or two, and there are more serious one's elsewhere.

I might also say - think about 2 boilers. Or one boiler and one electric, design so as it can be changed later.

Or get a bigger array. Mine is 10 kWp. You need a different sort of connection if that is still the case, and somewhat different paperwork.. Someone who has done it more recently needs to coment.

Interesting. I thought you could be moved onto the current system. Moving my panels is one thing I have in my plan for them, and the strings are .done to facilitate that. I think you need to make sure it is like-for-like. ie No noticeable increase in power generation.

You could hire a correct van, and even the crew. eg https://www.supertrucks-uk.com/products-services/glass-carrying-hire-vehicles/glass-carrying-hire-vehicles I brought a conservatory 3 hours on a trailer. I have also done conservatory doors in their frames on roofracks across battens. But that was motorway. The 2G units were robust. Done on edge inside the vehicle.. Check where your local replacement--2G-unit maker is in Lewis.

I wasn't aware of that. What do they do if you run out of money, get divorced, just don't finish it etc? The English Planner seem to have the underlying idea that people who try to force an end-date that are King Canute.

And you will be able to move in before doing eg much of the fitout (eg small kitchen in the utility), and outside. Maybe. Do you need full planning before you compete on the plot? If you want to put a porcupine up their posterior, you could start hinting that Rishi might be about to hike CGT. Which IMO has a 50%+ chance of happening.

The rental market in Englandshire is bunged up partly because COVID has extended to eviction process of unwilling or non-paying tenants to well over a year. assume Scotlandshire is similar. I have 3 properties dependant on getting an estate approved which has been with the authorities for many months, and we are now nearly 2 years on from the death. They have been empty for nearly a year and can't be rented out as it could take 12-18 months to remove new tenants and they could need to be sold at little notice. All empty for between just under a year and 2+ years. Proceed as best you can, if you can afford it. But don't gub to yourself that you will have done X by Y date, and leave your housing vulnerable therebby - without Plan B. F

IME personal experience most of them actually don't, and we can disagree on that. But the point is valid.

There's also work to be done on circulation routes. If the hair salon is going to be what you say, then you want a route in for customers that does not wend its way through your family living space. It needs to be an annexe. Suggest drawing up some use-cases as part of your spec, that you can use as a yardstick of your possible future lives to stretch your thnking, and validate your design decisions. eg These are annexe focussed. You need to consider both the peeps in the annexe and in the house. Two places - not "here" and "out the back". Ladies being pampered will not take ""out the back". The "salon"" needs to be a lovely space, not a back room with a hair-dressing chair. Better to perhaps at least swap with the storage. Grandma or both parents move in to be cared for, or semi supported. Family member needs supported living. Soundproof place for rock band to be developed / trombone to be practised. Child needs to boomerang after university. Both of us need to work from home, one with visiting customers. Lodger or holiday rental annexe or place for artist. Want somewhere semi-attached (detached) for elder teenager. Where would we make moonshine? The best place to get the concepts is to learn about "pattern language". https://www.patternlanguage.com/aims/aims.html And now I am going to shut up. F

I won't comment on the detailed layout etc, as others have and if you are going to replace it then you will need to return to the start to avoid being bound so much by the floorplan of the existing bungalow ?. Except to note that you need to make sure that the sun penetrates into all rooms at all times of the day. That kitchen living swathe risks being dark at times. Why do all the windows of your main living space face north with all that space at the sides? My house was laid out by the previous owners, and I have this problem in my kitchen / living area, which can be a little miserable especially in the mornings and at tea time. If you are starting from scratch I think you can expect to be rather more ambitious imo. I like the concept, but I feel that the eye is drawn to the landing window rather than the front door - and I think the garage is getting too much attention in the facade. What to play with? Don't align the horizontal break line on the facade with the garage. Either match it to the floor break in the hall / landing, or break it with the windows, or otherwise break the visual join between the house and garage. Or perhaps make the downstairs windows and particularly the front door more prominent. IMO it needs to read more like a "house with garage attached". The garage needs to be subservient to the main house, not penetrating it visually. Ferdinand

He has 4 spares in the attic and saved £1.

From a Whoopee! comic when I was about nine, from the "Scared-Stiff Sam" strip:

The last time I checked BEVs were doing better far far than that. https://www.nextgreencar.com/electric-cars/statistics/ I think mandating chargers in all new houses is as much a no-brainer as cycle storage.

I would look for ones made from recyled something. And I would look for a 15-20 year lifetime. IME with rentals a very good quality underlay is from perhaps £5 per sqm. That's good enough to avoid trashing your nice carpet in a shorter period than it might last. Just selling one that has been tenanted since 2011 with a decent underlay and reasonable (£6 per sqm) carpet, and it looks fine. I'm also selling one I had designed for 15 years no maintenance after 4 years of renting out, and it looks as new. And don't forget to use carpet protectors on furniture legs.

Tend to disagree. The chap comes across to me as a bit of a twit in a number of respects, looking at his timeline.

Was thinking it was another of those stealth house things.