Ferdinand

Reading those threads, we have permission from about 80% of the people to copy posts across, so I will have a look at doing that later. F

Don't underestimate salami-slicing-pricing either. Eg with a Trade Account and Gift Cards bought via many people's work Employee Benefit Programmes it is possible to get a routine 20% off at Wickes, plus whatever discounts and sales they are doing at the time. We have a couple of threads in the General Discussion area. A couple of weeks ago a new member appeared quoting a price for insulation for a new self-build that could be halved without difficulty. Ferdinand

That all sounds encouraging (for a successful build process) - you have some scars of experience . When you have been round the block enough that you have worn a groove in the ground to create your own block, then you become an official HOG (= Hoary Old Git).

8>< Snip.

A father-in-law who visits for the winter? *Gets coat* What is one of those, then? Is that when Clarkson talks about feeling things through the seat of your pants?

I think you *may* be underestimating the numbers of rocks and ruts normally encountered on the smooth road of self-build, and the time required to circumvent them or prove they are mirages. Trying to do things too quickly *can be* (sometimes) a very good way of spending more money than you may actually need to do. Ferdinand

(Revised) I think it is a good thing to start throwing ideas around, as long as you do not get *too* attached to specifics. At this early stage I suggest exposing yourself to as many ideas as you can, and try to focus on the generalities as well as the details. It is the broad knowledge and background you are missing my not using an architect - and you need to compensate by creating your own broader perspective. That is important, because the joy of self-build is that you design something that works for you and suits the site, rather than taking a preconceived idea of your house and plonking it down wherever. That is in some ways no different from taking a developer's pre-conceived idea of what you house should be. What are your key requirements? (ie your postcard-length summary of what you want from your house) Do you know which area (approx) are you in, and what the vernacular style is for that area? I recommend: 1 - Reading this design e-book written by one of our former architect members: http://www.ebuild.co.uk/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=4333 2 - Visiting as many different interesting houses as you can on Open Days, via Estate Agents, for weekends away on AirBNB and so on, with a notebook and an eye on what you like. And I mean 20 or 30 not 2 or 3, 3 - Starting to look for details of the things that make houses work. Where is the light coming from at different times of day, as well as what sort of finishes has it got. I find it helps to start from all three of "what is the site like", "what do we need" and "what will our house look like", and meet somewhere in the middle. Ferdinand

Welcome.

An attack on the most vulnerable by party or parties currently unknown. Not good, and I am thinking about people who have still not found their families, friends and relatives. And for those whose role it is to help. My hope is that - since to me this seems to be an attempt to cause disruption to our life during an Election - our response will be what it usually is. That is, a pause for respect and acknowledgement of the victims, and then a continuing of normal, daily life. And of course a hunt for the perpetrators, whoever they are. Ferdinand

Perhaps use the woodfibre boards to line raised beds? And yes, they should chip, subject to any poisonous addiditives they contain. It may be a surprise just how quickly they will be chipped by a large chipper. They should compost too, but may be better chipped where they will eventually be needed. Cedar

Checking on Wickes and Todd Doors product, I am not sure they are the same. Looking at 1981x762mm Cottage Oak / Geneva doors (ie oak veneer with detailing like vertical planks): Wickes - weight 27.5 kg, bottom trimming margin 20mm. http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Geneva-Internal-Cottage-Oak-Veneer-Door-5-Panel-1981-x-762mm/p/214699 Todd Doors - weight 31.7kg (via Web Chat), bottom trimming margin 50mm https://www.todd-doors.co.uk/cottage-oak-door That suggests a different internal construction. In this case I need the extra margin, and want heavy doors, so I will fork out the extra £15 or so per door. Ferdinand.

Missed this. The problem is that my feet are very ticklish, so I would not last long.

One problem then is that the humidity changes as a new house takes 12-36 months to dry out, Argues for engineered or mdf.

Welcome. It is good to see part-rebuilders and renovators as well as greenfield or total replacement projects :-o) . Ferdinand

Haven't got around to thinking about skirtings yet :-).

Is an "engineered" (= fingerjointed) door lining significantly more stable? Example, For me it is worth an extra say £30-35 to get something that will not have to be repaired later. Ferdinand

Oooer typo. The maths was good otherwise. I allege.

I would defend using the shower cubicle technique on Ikea, No moving parts ==> open shelves, so there is nothing that can break too easily.

It is a new section of stud wall, so I can size the opening as I wish, which should be: 1981 x 762 mm for the door = 1991 x 772 with a 5mm margin. = 2051 x 1002 with 30mm for the door set. (Minus the bit I trim off the door to allow for my floating floor, which is not pertinent) Thanks for the replies - not yet confident in this area. @PeterW Thanks .. will take a second look at Wickes. Ferdinand

It's a way of keeping the budget under control, so all self-builders hate it .

I am planning to use these doors on the Little Brown Bungalow x6, (Oak Veneer known as Cottage Oak or Geneva): https://www.todd-doors.co.uk/cottage-oak-door They tell me that this doorset would be appropriate: https://www.todd-doors.co.uk/oak-door-lining-kit at about £72 As I am not that experienced with doors and frames, can anyone confirm that that a good choice, and whether there is a more reasonable alternative. In this case I would be able to paint the doorframe as the existing ones in the house are already painted. Cheers Ferdinand

My grandma and me went to IKEA and we bought: 12 Panel LEDs. Two Lamb Shank Lunches. And 2 HYBY hall lights http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/products/lighting/ceiling-lights/hyby-ceiling-lamp-white-art-90347389/ who's next?

@Lucy Murray Scottish ower wayleave info, including contacts: https://www.spenergynetworks.co.uk/pages/wayleaves.aspx Ferdinand

+1 This is Laurel and Hardy with the ladder territory, but we need to be serious when it is serious.

Hi Daniel While costs can be squeezed, Quick and Affordable are often at opposite ends of a compromise scale, and to an extent you choose your place along that scale by the decisions you make. It would be interesting to compare numbers with the current costs for Walter Segal style builds. Ferdinand