Marvin

Hi @damspt It's usually on the bit that says this: (an example) How this affects your energy bills An average household would need to spend £836 per year on heating, hot water and lighting in this property. These costs usually make up the majority of your energy bills. You could save £224 per year if you complete the suggested steps for improving this property’s energy rating. This is based on average costs in 2025 when this EPC was created. People living at the property may use different amounts of energy for heating, hot water and lighting. Heating this property Estimated energy needed in this property is: 7,062 kWh per year for heating 2,688 kWh per year for hot water

Hi @damspt What was the expected kWh year requirement?

Hi @damspt There are so many considerations when discussing ASHPs. Although I am not a fan of EPC's I would be interested to know what rating your house is. If you look up your home on the EPC register it will tell you lots of things which are questions you would be asked here. For example: Is your home rated A B or C. The Floor area and the calculated kWh use per year for heating: If you divide the kWh by the floor area this will give you the amount of heating in kWhs per square metre floor area per year. From my own experience with our ASHP over the last few years we are satisfied with the results. Our ASHP uses masses during cold weather but almost nothing during the rest of the time. We run at about 22 - 23 degrees C during the winter. We also have a MVHR system and PV. So when you compare our little bungalow to @Nickfromwales's home we would use kWh per year per square metre of floor. (don't do it Nick you would only be depressed😆). Good luck M

A rather poor drawing of what has happened so far and what could happen.. Note the gap at the top wider than at the bottom. Extreme drawing I know but you see how it falls and why the crack is bigger at the top and at this stage not visable at the bottom because it has not gone that far yet.

Hi @kyran It looks like the wall on the right hand side of the crack is dropping going away from the left hand side. Yes the RSJ on the pad stone is pushing down, but the foundations holding up the RSJ wall appear not to be capable of holding up the load. Also it looks like the crack is where 2 different walls have met, presumably the foundations below each part of the wall are different. You may also want to clarify how much this house insurance would cost. Also what caused the previous subsidence. Was it a drain or roots or quality of the foundations or the soil. You can pay a high insurance premium for a building that has had subsidence for 20 years!

Hi @JohnMo Yes, need good insulation in narrow space so using PIR. Studs existing. breather on outside. True still thinking about 25mm PIR on inside.

Hi @Redbeard thanks for this Yes on the inside I am adding 25mm over the joists, then the VCL then the Fireboard. Forgot to say this is for a garden room walls. Hi @Mr Punter Thanks for the info.

Thanks @JohnMo I was also thinking about the dew point. I didn't know which way was best to instal them PIR to the outside and glass wool inside or vice versa.

I have a timber frame that I want insulate which varies in thickness from about 118mm to 155mm I was thinking of using 100mm PIR and loft insulation to fill the gap. Which is best: Outside surface, 100 PIR loft insulation Inside surface. or Outside surface loft insulation, 100 PIR inside surface.

Hi @MorganP This is a classic: Never have the cable going in at the top of the pump! The 4 Allan key bolts allow the motor housing to be rotated to any of the 4 sides and best if the cable inlet is at the bottom, BUT ONLY with the system drained or the pump isolated. I haven't read all the info here... Have you bled the pump?

I have never seen a green roof that falls towards a higher side of a building. I would try to find another way. At least falling away from the building and altering the drainage. It's even more of a concern when you consider that all the rain from the house roof in that area will also be draining there.

You couldn't think of anything simpler to explain then? 😂

This how my system is set and yes it heats up until the tank thermostat reaches the temperature set.

Hi @evekell A quick check to see if the bottom door seal is working is to pour a small amount of cold water on the outside of the door when it is closed and see if it goes into the house. I have done this with ours before now by using a COLD kettle and pouring a trickle about a foot from the bottom of the door, onto the door and frame, across the entire width of the door from the frame one side to the other. If the bottom seal is damaged it will leak If the door has been raised in the frame too high it will leave a gap between the bottom of the door and the seal and leak. This is a simple and easy thing to cross off the list of potential problems before doing any serious work. Good luck M

Hi @SteamyTea No smart meter. Energy used by ASHP goes through a separate meter first which only logs amount used. PV is already monitored to turn things on and off with CT clamps measuring the power to the grid. Extremely rare to supply power to the grid in winter even if PV working at full capacity. The Watt/hour level only peaks when doing serious cooking. Home background level is about 600w ASHP is in weather compensated mode and I wanted to see if the hot water is still adequate in lower temperatures.

Hi @SteamyTea Hope your well... This is the start of a test I am trying to do during the winter as this is the high use period. The heating is programmed to be on permanently and will be on until the spring (a few degrees lower in the night but still on) The hot water is programmed to come on when the tank temperature is below the 'on' until above the 'off' levels. the spread being 5.5°C, However I will stop that happening on occasions (when the outside temperature is lower than today, with no sunlight) to see what happens. You have made me think about it and I will record where the hot water temperature starts from in case it is below the level of 'demand' when it starts. Other poster had been discussing what happened to the house temperature when the heat is diverted to heating up the hot tank. I realised this would be affected by the outside and inside environment and decided to record the result when possible.

19/10/2025 8.30 am test: House temperature when heating hot water: During this test no major actions in the home were happening that would effect the results. Outside Temperature 11°C Weather no sun/raining/25mph wind - gusts to 30mph. Home temp 22.7. Hot water tank 205 litres Buffer tank 36°C Hot water starts calling The difference between hot water demand turn on and turn off is a rise of 5.5°C Hot water reaches temperature in 35 mins Home temp after hot water demand is 22.7°C Buffer tank 35.3°C Home temperature during 30 minutes after hot water heating finished stayed at 22.7°C In my opinion the time taken to bring the hot water tank up to temperature is suitable in duration (we are using low fan speed) and does not materially effect the home temperature when the outside temperature is 11°C.

Hi @JohnMo and @HughF Thanks for your thoughts. Yes I have lifted the sensor temperature to 42 degrees. However this is not the temperature of the water in the majority of the tank because of the sensor positioning. Reasonable hot water temperature and consumption in this bungalow. Thanks for your concern. Definitely over 45 degrees in majority of the tank when set at 42 and over 60 once a month.

This is the sort of thing that is my aim. I just need to adjust the ASHP controller to the right settings.

I cannot find the hot water set points so have adjusted the temperatures in the weather compensation section. M

My problem has been that the hot water temperature has been set at 40 but it doesn't actually kick in until about 36 which is too low. So on the odd occasions when the temperature is below 40 and there is shower demand the water is not hot enough. However because I have the system running on low speed mode it takes a while to reach 40 so rather than enter the weather compensation part I will alter the hot water temp diff to 2 and the stop to 2 and see how that works out. Unless anyone has a better idea.... Thanks Marvin

Hi @dpmiller I think I have worked it out. I use weather compensation so the hot water temperature is defined there.

Hi @dpmiller Yes I can bring it to user mask but then what? I have previously entered the engineers code but I cannot access U01

We have no app connection....

Hi @dpmiller Hi Its the CE-iVT9 and it's the set point? (to be clear - the point at which the water in the hot water tank rises so much that the ASHP stops heating the water in said tank)