Mattg4321

Someone better get on the blower to the Chinese. I read that they poured more concrete in 2 years than the US has in its entire history. They burn 30% more coal than the rest of the world combined. And rising. They’re also taking significant control of worldwide raw material supply. Meanwhile we do our best to impoverish ourselves whilst fiddling round the edges, whilst the BBC preach to us that we’re the ones doing all the damage (now and in the past), whilst doing nothing to rein in their extravagances. If you can find a cheaper or better way of doing something, then it will see widespread takeup. At the moment there is little serious alternative to concrete on a global level

Personally I’d have the supplementary electrode connected, and I do in my own house, due to island mode. FYI for an SWA sub main/distribution circuit on TT, then the best way is a switchfuse with BS88-3 fuse and a 100mA S type RCD. Then use switched neutral RCBO’s downstream to maintain selectivity. It’s really not much worse than TN system and having a switchfuse with a main switch isolator rather than the RCD as above. It’s much better than a sub main from an MCB which I see all the time!

Yes, it’s recommended in 411.4.2 that a supplementary electrode is installed. It’s been strongly considered a number of times that this be made mandatory. If you have an inverter which allows island mode, then it is definitely necessary to install one. Table 54.1 shows min earth conductor sizes. It’s 16mm2 for no mechanical protection, but cable has sheath for protection against corrosion. I’d be leaving it connected to the MET assuming it’s installed to a good standard, with a stable Ra.

Octopus either want £250, Electrical Installation Certificate and Electrical Building Control Sign off (Part P notification) OR they want MCS

Yes it can

Didn’t you have any battens supporting the bottom of the GSE trays?

Steel conduit.

Apologies, of course the panels don’t sit directly on the battens! GSE trays. I should know, I fitted them. They don’t add much height though.

Not double battened. The panels sit directly on the battens, as do the tiles, so not sure why the panels would be higher?

That’s not the case with mine. The panels sit a fraction lower than the tiles (which unfortunately are concrete Marley Moderns). I don’t take issue with you saying it’s a problem on some though.

Could you explain ‘elevated surface’. Do you mean panels on rails rather than GSE in roof system?

I installed a Reolink Poe doorbell a customer bought. It seemed ok to be fair. On a par with Ring for build quality and ease of setup

If you mean actually plastered in flush, so they are not proud even by the depth of the plate, don't ever do that! Total nightmare when they need to be removed for whatever reason. EICR/Testing for fault/Replacement when faulty. Also, unswitched sockets look naff in my opinion!

No offence intended, but sounds like the blind leading the blind! No requirement to have RCD protection on a TT system, you just have to ensure the circuit can reliably meet max zs values. In reality, on a domestic job this isn't reliably possible, so you need to provide additional protection. ie an RCD. The only proper way to do it is to fit an S Type RCD on the sub main and double pole/single pole switched neutral RCBO's at the garden room. This means a separate switch fuse at the origin and probably a new consumer unit/RCBO's at the garden room as your RCBO's are probably single pole. Probably not what you wanted to hear. You could fit a 50A RCBO on the sub main and end up with no selectivity, but it would be safe, just not right imo. I doubt you will find a 63A RCBO. 15mm cable? Not a size that exists. Could you post a picture of inside both house and garden room consumer units? Then it can be decided if it can be easily sorted or if I feel like you should be seeking help from a local electrician. Apologies for bluntness.

Agreed that an accumulator is the silver bullet, however, not a snowballs chance am I giving up garage space! As the noise seems to be better since I pumped it up then let it down, going to try living with it for a while and see how it goes.

I’ll have to look into how to do that, but it could work

https://www.plumbnation.co.uk/joule-cyclone-platinum-unvented-250l-indirect-short-cylinder-302-19749?utm_source=organic&utm_medium=shoppingfeed&utm_campaign=googlebase&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAzba9BhBhEiwA7glbagdV4fjHIm0Nbv5QTbyua3ayiSpIs0bGjZWV14UmKhapS2XfvEY_AhoCyLkQAvD_BwE

No, although it could no doubt easily go in the garage as adjacent to where the main is. However, theres more chance of the sun rising in the west than that. Far more important things to be fitted in there!

It's one of these https://www.mrcentralheating.co.uk/water-storage/unvented-cylinders/thermowave-18-litre-unvented-potable-expansion-vessel?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAzba9BhBhEiwA7glbaqbL_VFwijXyCmtOYqZedccRbzUq-NnH4RZxg7MUGEn2gvyofQtMVBoC2ywQAvD_BwE

It tails off, so 28LPM wouldn't be sustained for too long. Will see how things go for a few weeks I think.

60 degrees

The EV provided by Joule isn't actually a (the) Joule product. It's a Global Water Solutions EV. As an update. I pumped the EV back up to 2.5 bar to see what would happen. Noise got much worse. Even just opening basin tap caused fairly loud noises from the EV/cylinder. I let it back down to 1.5 bar and if anything seems slightly better than before. Only opening the bath tap wide open suddenly causes the gurgling/vibrating noises. If opened gently it's just a moderate hiss as the EV empties presumably. Also notably I tried measuring flow at hot bath tap. Got 28 litres per minute. So significantly more than the outside tap directly off the main. I guess this is proof the EV is acting as an accumulator. I can only think it must be the large difference between static pressure and dynamic pressure causing the noise. Maybe the diaphragm bottoming out? For now it's only a minor problem in it's current state to be honest. I think the only way to fix is to get a better flow by upgrading the main.

Sorry for the poor picture. Yes, it’s after the PRV. Between that and the cylinder

Yes

Yes although EV from pipework to cylinder. Which looks fine from my research.