saveasteading

Manage it well so that there are no accidents and you won't get in trouble. Assuming that contractors are doing it safely is not enough. You must stay in touch and stop silly things. Fortunately you don't have to buy Cadbury's and thefore....no I can't continue the analogy.

A good point. Very little heat disappears down through the floor of a big shed, as the outdoor effect diminishes away from the perimeter. This is understated by the insulation manufacturers. Thus you are even getting some warming from the ground if the internal temperature happens to plummet. Just a thought....I was told that B and Q warm their stores with gas or oil heating , but with the exhaust also sent indoors. This is on the basis that they are only taking the edge off the cold, and the volume is huge. I'd be interested if someone more expert can confirm or refute this principle. If you have work stations within the warehouse it is simple to install local radiant heating. This will then spread around the space and may provide the extra degree that helps through the February night. And I haven't mentioned airtightness. You have the benefit of these trees against the wind, but draughts will suck out your nice tempered air. The worst leaks are often at the interfaces of the walls to the roof and slab.

Much the same usually, after deducting the space taken by stairs. But if the land is expensive that dictates not building on a single storey. I suggest you employ a professional estimating service. Their costs are also rules of thumb, but by element, so more project specific. But if you don't know what you want yet, then the $5k /m2 may apply. Remember that experts are dong this commercially all the time, so you are competing with them.

I am assuming GB conditions. You heat the office with ashp, and remember to insulate the walls to the warehouse, and the ceiling. A lobby at the outside door will keep the heat in. The warehouse doesn't need heating. It would be hideously expensive to do so, and it would end up hot in the roof and cooler at the floor. Heat loses through open loading doors are extreme, of course. Through a closed loading door there are still draughts especially at the spring unless you go for top of the range. If your concern is for the product , then install a primitive gas or oil heater linked to a thermostat. It may only fire a couple of times a year. More importantly, keep the door shut. You say it is a barn. I hope you know that an agricultural barn is designed without factors of safety and needs reinforcing for other uses. You have come to the right place.

I can't recall ever having an issue with joists selected from the span tables. Remember that in a domestic situation a lot of the load is furniture so part of the deflection is permanent... and any bounce in walking is quickly dampened by the sofa. But in a dance studio or gym it could be very unpleasant.

Success! Had that with a skip full of carefully stacked roof cladding. The driver said he shouldn't take it if it is that heavy, but did. The skips of mixed waste that are taken to a sorting depot turn the value of the air gaps into money.

All done. took just an hour to change the inlet ballcock and overflow, to which add nearly a week to get the bits together. I next have a messy job of bagging up the wet insulation, and replacing, and checking all the pipes where I've displaced the foam insulation. Then regluing the damaged area of the parquet floor once it has shrunk back to size. Then the ceiling damage. For the want of a nail...etc. In this case, a bodge by the plumber 25 years ago. Should I add inhibitor as @Gus Potter suggests? I don't expect the circuit is much diluted, as the water in it doesn't run through the header tank.

What is the ceiling height? Can you put a thin insulation down and screed over that. Put the bulk of insulation elsewhere. check door heights too.

We have an old house with concrete floors without any insulation. The electric blanket in the bathroom floor is a very nice luxury. Mentioning this discussion to my wife she reminded me of how pleased we are with our electric towel rail. It is plumbed in to the CH but also has an electric heating rod in it. A cheap and simple control from Toolstation allows us to press a single button for 2 hours heat, and dry towels.

It is a very good point. I had one building (of 200+ with clad roofs) that had corrosion problems. It got legal. It was near the sea. The findings were that it was the architect's liability. I think standing seam would have been worse. Others near the sea were fine. Lashing rain is your friend. I don't want to hijack this thread so no more detail here.

Is that just for the looks? I have always persuaded clients to use profiled, screwed cladding. Why? 1/3 cheaper, and much less specialised. You should avoid any penetration through cladding but esp with ss. If there is damage through wind or branches, ss is horrible to repair of replace. In an urban situation, ss is mimicking zinc or lead roofing. In a rural situation that doesn't apply. Can suffer from 'oil canning'. FOR ss....no exposed screws. I reckon 1 per thousand has needed remedial work.

No. It would have been a waste of money, so 95% there isn't. Probably easiest to do a full dig out and pour.

If you are staggering overlaps these don't make much difference as they become air pockets. And consider the proportion of area....negligible.

You don't need to complicate it.

Oops. Sorry. 100mm will do it. Total 460 so still safer and cheaper than your 650. You don't add the 20 for ufh. It is in the screed , so 630. It may be possible to skimp more, but I'd need to know the circumstances.

is what I said. I've had hundreds of projects experience with them so appreciate that the standard of inspectors' knowledge varies. But I've also heard so many tales from them about appalling standards and attitude of some builders, and householders...I and you haven't seen how bad it can be apparently.

As above. Digging deep is to be avoided so minimise it. Eps is half as effective as pir, for half the price. V approximately. So I suggest : reduce the sand to the minimum to get a smooth surface.* Use quality stone rather than hardcore then add 10mm sand. 140 + 10. 150 dpm 150mm pir Membrane 60mm screed. Total 360mm. that is saving money all round and reducing risk. Way more than the energy cost saving you are losing long term. OR even 100mm Pir and add more insulation elsewhere. *50mm is only necessary to overcome rough work in texture or levelling. Plus you get footprints.

Beware sliding gates. Maybe it only applies in commercial circumstances, but there are regulations to protect someone poking their arm through and breaking it against the post. If requires a pressure stop.

Does it need to be so wide? I simplified mine by using a small fixed gate and an automated field gate. The fixed is opened very occasionally for a bigger vehicle. I have a slope which I thought was a problem but we juggled the height and it swings just past. If it is to keep in toddlers and dogs then that would be different. My gate people relished the challenges: they've seen most before, so speak so them.

They are not designers. But if you present a half decent proposal they will discuss any problems with it....but it isn't for them to sort problems...the fee is too small. Their job is to keep standards to a reasonably high level for you and society. We may not always agree with the bco ( I've had big arguments too) but I think your comment is unfair.

Not the planners' role. The designer's. I'm thinking the design isn't by a building expert. Later, building control would refuse approval

And a legal requirement. I'm rather shocked that the architect (A?) doesn't know this.

How exciting. It is an office block Or hotel. Few builders can do this so you need big, commercial builders. Add 50% to any general guidelines. A 2 storey retaining wall is remarkable. Huge costs. Also concrete is unforgiving. Where do insulation and services go? My hunch is that steel, or hybrid, might be better value, but I would be costing it in several ways. Presumably you don't have much external space, hence the 6 cars in the basement. So lots of excavation and retaining walls, and high muck away costs? You need a lift. My hunch is to agree with the £4M plus VAT. Plus allow risk. I can't see anybody with £5M available living in a caravan for 2 years.

Leaks have all stopped for now. floor and ceiling drying, and dining table safe So today I went to do the simple task of removing the overflow and perhaps adding a sealing ring and re-fixing it. Not so easy. I couldn't unwind the plastic nut because it is damaged with what looks like a hacksaw cut. It appears that the original fitter was at the preschool stage of his apprenticeship. The thread is damaged under the nut...that's why he hadn't tightened it. Had to saw it off. Also the washer is on the outside.. it should be inside? Yes. Or both? so... pop up to screwfix for a new one? next day delivery and only in packs of five. cheap though. so,,,to Travis Perkins. None in stock and didn't really know what I meant. Now ordered from SF. Yet gain SF stocks annoyingly low, with half of what I want being next day. Replacement inlet valves don't seem to have washer seals included, but do have reduced diameter facing plates that will go through the tank hole. I suppose it doesn't need sealing because it is above the overflow. I think I will still apply Fernox everywhere though against splashing.

I've noticed that all timber kit people, sips or stick, exclude steel and scaffolding. As if they have no idea what will be needed. Thus the prices are falsely low.