saveasteading

Use what is around you? Stone, peat, reeds, heather, sand, (old barrels ?). Not my choice now we have options.

Can we see the whole cross section from ground to floor surface? Words or pictures You need structural support and insulation within it.

1:20 is quite noticeable i think. From observation, a person who prefers a ramp will like a rail. But as this is not through official channels, @ToughButterCup can decide later.

No. I've met the designer of a housing estate. A technician working to the developer's brief of units / acre. Mock Georgian combined with local styles. 4 modules and 3 sets of finishes to iterate. Having glaring mistakes pointed out didn't seem to break him out of the docile state. Then a more sales type person does some talking about heritage and stuff. Not Architecture.

The builder did you a service then, building a flawed house that wasn't highly desirable. A family member had a more extreme case, where a mid terrace had no front door and access through the neighbours' yard. Quirky, the agents called it. It was even less satisfactory than we had expected. We put a front door in (With PP). Sorted. It was v nice when sold on.

Isn't that based on the coldest day, which is already an extreme case?

They squeezed more houses in. It is normal for mid terraces to have no side passage. You bought it.

I mention most things several times, I'm told. Again: When building a 3 storey timber building i was surprised that the timber contractor insisted on a brick kerb above floor level.. That cost was a loss to us. I could see why they wanted it but thought bricks would displace. So used lintels. The price halves with big quantities and it doesn't need a bricklayer. It worked and the company said it was a great idea. Now we are building a timber building inside a steel building. I had intended to use tanalised timber as sole plate, but pc lintel is going to : Live for ever Be much more accurate Not distort or compress. Rest on continuous mortar, not occasional plastic packers. (Strength, precision, no gaps for air or beasties.) Not get kicked over. Hold the stud robustly during construction. Against? Cost 4 x timber May still need a timber sole plate above it...or can we fix stud panels direct?

Wildfires are unlikely on Islay I'd think. So it seems that the straw is only for wall insulation. What thickness will that be? It will either reduce floor space or require additional footprint. Either might be considered in analysing the cost in money and carbon. Might it be feasible to build a proven structure, and fill the voids with compressed straw instead of commerical insulation. It wouldn't be enough but it would tick that box. Internal walls will be in conventional material presumably. Some thoughts on straw: There used to be a concrete block containing straw. I think it was a cheap bulker rather than for its properties. Straw is about half the height it used to be, through breeding, I once used straw bales under a deeply buried sewer. It was a recognised means of carrying load over soft ground. It works nicely as thatch although reeds seem to be better. But the slope makes that work. From a quick search it seems that straw has a value, ie is not always waste. This needs a farmer to advise.

Either of them would do but 1 is over the top and expensive for lots. 2 is ok but i rather liked the ones i was describing. For this process, i would be buying about 180m of lintel and fixing them down at 1m cc and then timber to them at 1m cc. Hence 20p fixings is the plan. And 8mm dia will ease the drilling. Threaded rod and squeezy epoxy is an unnecessary fiddle. I thought the ones I saw were Timco, but I can't find them.

I bought Lindab products for decades because of the quality. So I'm a good referee but also biased. Cladding, gutters, modular buildings. I was shown round their ducting factory. Stunningly hitech. I didn't know catnic made cladding so no comment. See my previous comments on why I never specified standing seam.

I'll explain later. They are sole plate snot structural.

Maybe it will be neat. It's an option. They could be stepping stones in the flower bed.

How long would it take? X £500/ day How many skips? X £200 for clean concrete. L X w X depth in m3. X 1.5 for bulking. Add £500 sundries. That's just a guide.

You should. You'll find you always use it in preference and it allows for future proofing. It doesn't need to be a compliant wheelchair ramp, but that's up to you. A handrail too.

Is this on a solid floor or over joists?

Don't worry, I know you should never do this as it compromises the strength. No, I'll explain. I'm considering lintels as sole plates. I've specified it before and it was a success. BUT I didn't watch the fixing of the timber stud to it. The joiners didn't complain so it must have been OK. One fixing centrally so won't touch the steel. I'm assuming use of sds, and top quality bits (de Walt?) Has anyone done this? 1. How easily does the bit sail into the top of the very hard concrete lintel? 2.What's a good and easy fixing for a 47mm batten into it? I once saw a joiner using hit-fixings for sole plate to blockwork, that involved a metal cone as the expanding part, and was impressed with it. But I lost the details and can't find it in searches. I'll explain the purpose and benefits if we go ahead this way. It should be the industry norm I believe.

For future reference, and the OP, where do you look for a second hand kiosk?

Now you tell me!

Not you obv @Nickfromwales Never assume that an electrician or plumber knows how to drill through a joist. The hole has to be at mid depth approximately. Holes or notches near the top or bottom reduce the strength dramatically. Plus being more vulnerable to fixings. See photo as another example of what not to do.

I wouldn't think it's that far. Ayrshire will have lots, and there's probably plenty at half that distance. And Islay's incredible whiskies started as barley...from where? But I'm distracted.

If this is a proper house then I'd advise against straw on Islay. I recall a grand designs, I think it was. It was in or near less exposed London yet the outer face was dishevelled, brown and yeuch. The architect/ owner loved that it was reacting with nature....or rotting and a home for creatures as most would describe it. Around that time I knew a few academics who wanted to use straw. 20 years on and it has rightly not become a mainstream process. When most buildings are designed for a 50 year life, we expect 100. With straw, 30? It's fashionable for the rich or a necessity for the poor.

Yes, but can still be claimed back.

Mine was made in Glasgow by Kingspan it says on the label. Searching comes up with hand crafted and very expensive options so just search for kiosk S3. Mine was advertised cheapest but had a £100 delivery added. They (waterwise) agreed to reduce that to £12 and I ordered it. £584.40 total. I looked again and the price had gone much higher. Seems to be that plus VAT now. The local electric merchant wanted much more than that. There are mentions from competitors of inferior qualities and it needing a double door. But I'm happy.

I was taught that standing seam and penetration don't go together. The point of them is to have no screwholes through the surface. For function, not appearance. Maybe reliable details have been found since then.