saveasteading

Spirit levels work, and remain useful thereafter. If you go that direction, ask more more advice.

Keep testing us and the norms.

I like b and b and have used it a lot. For buildings. This doesn't need it. In fact it's a bad idea i think, in practice and cost. As above. Fill and pave with a slope away from the house. Or gravel, or a mixture.

About 12°C?

Their sheds are good as sheds. This is a shed with some insulation, fixed in and out for their convenience. The void is a flaw, with some words to try to explain it away. I don't even see it as a basis for any proper building use. " helps maintain room temperature, unlike rockwool". What garbage. They might get a solicitor's letter on that.

It's a fridge in a cupboard. The fridge expels heat, so warms up the cubboard. Otoh, how often does it have to work hard? Buy bottle of wine af 18°. Cool it to 16°. A bigger issue is your room heat warming the cupboard. So 3g and an insulated , sealed door. It's good to dicuss trivia sometimes to test logic. More importantly 22° is far too warm for a room. Can't be healthy for you or the planet. You would get used to 18° very quickly.

OK. Just to close then my opinion is that Suds is vital in reducing floods , and fairly straight forward to achieve.

Want to start it as a new thread? I've got a long answer stewing.

I know. I meant what you suggest, but I'd want to be confident it will really work properly when completed. Otherwise it could wash out and threaten the building and/or rush off and add to flooding. I've noticed over the years that many builders are contemptuous of suds. Perhaps some of them just don't understand drainage. Also that many designers see it as a tick box and don't understand water. I've discussed in detail with planners in a seminar. They were happy to agree that Suds is technical and not their skillset. Thus the tickbox is what they want. BCO likewise might not be expert.

@Andehh Thanks for the closure summary. Would you have any advice for anyone considering a similar project? OR what might you do differently another time?

Money mostly. The Mohr the merrier (CE joke). Much better to control the water. Not just write some stuff that satisfies the planners, but that respects reality, works and has a safety factor. That's probably a pond or swale in effect, with added green roof / water butts/ drainage field that the planners have been taught is good.

It isn't terribly expensive and removes a a real danger. But outside the building?

Emptied yes. And ask them to hose it down. But I'd stop there because jet washing will be messy but incomplete. It's never going to be clean, and bacteria along with new rainwater will sort it enough for garden watering.

Single or 3 phase? An electrician can calculate your need based on house size m2, then advise the cable to suit. Ditto water by plumber. We put the cable and pipe in to the agreed meter position (and the kiosk) with no ducts, to avoid digging holes twice. But you should be getting a proposal from SSE and your water company , and it will state some requirements.

If using a contractor, do not assume best practice. They may choose to chuck the mesh in without spacers, without laps or even to have gaps. So the slab can end up with mesh on the bottom where it has little effect.

Where does rain go now? Can you reuse that proven facility? If you put lots of water into the ground, it will soak downwards and sideways. This can create a flow, stream, slip. The solution may be to distribute the drainage over a large area, such as a drainage field. However there is still a strong chance of water finding an easy route and the same issue arise. Land slips go way back into the hillside following a remarkably geometric circle, thus can affect foundations a fair way from the slope. Ponds are good. You get evaporation as well as infiltration plus it works as a brake / holding tank when not full. If I was the planner /bco I'd want a detailed scheme before construction. It's in your interest too.

Yes please. Where to source, what to avoid? Running costs? Regrets?

? What is the purpose of the radon barrier outside the building?

We don't though. Not on ground bearing slabs where crack control suffices.

I'm resisting. I'd like a cherry picker too. I wonder if people who regret buying the toy keep quiet about it. I've seen so many 5t diggers sitting idle on site waiting for a very expensive repair. Can you buy at good value and with some guarantee? Where do they go for the last owner before scrapping? I know: my groundworkers and self builders.

I beg your pardon. I and many others on here have been in the industry for decades. I don't sell drugs or arms, or ever cheat people. There are cheats in all industries. What is yours? A joke is OK but not that.

Ask away.

Good point. Could be singular. Seems grass could convert summer sun more efficiently. Winter recovery from mud to grass might be an issue.

Any info on how the shade affects the grass growth and quality?

Why do you need to break it up? We are keeping ours. Pir on top then screed. £25k saved and a hard surface throughout. What we have broken out was crushed to hardcore, which a 5T digger couldn't do.