saveasteading

Yes it is that simple. a hole in a block is to difficult, so either shunt it up to touch, or cut a alice off. then you have a gap remaining but can pop a piece of ply over it and infill with hand mixed concrete or some leftover. The ply is left in place for ever. For clarity. Grey water is the kitchen and laundry drainage and it goes in with the sewage to the treatment tank. Rainwater should not go there for several reasons. It dilutes the sewage and pushes it through too quickly, overloads the soakaway, and is wasted whereas it could go elsewhere useful in the grounds. Plus you can catch the rainwater for gardening.

They don't know they are paviors. They will work fine as masonry blocks. Will the width work, or be laid sideways?

One told me the client's budget when I asked. I said it couldn't be done, by a long way. . He responded ' the client always finds more money'. I then saw the client privately and withdrew, on the basis that I wouldn't be involved in a deception. They got it done at about twice the budget, then kindly showed me round too.

Mostly in the ease of jointing. The best ease together, thd worst need lots of lube and fiddling, which isn't fun when down a muddy hole. But I've found obscure brands to be fine if from a specialist drainage merchant. It can be quite a decision though.

I can't get rid of the above for some reason so ignore. More re merchants. Most small builders have one BM account. They may get decent value or may not acc to their buying skills and turnover The BM is often getting a premium for their credit risk. I did a warehouse for a BM once. The owner told me that Saturday mornings was good business. ie 10% off list price pleased the public but had a nice margin. Your builder might charge you the list price while paying less....fair enough when they are buying and managing. I bought a special part for a built in wc recently ( I asked questions on here). It was £32 on Amazon and more elsewhere online. TP got it in specially and charged £16. I'm glad I asked them. A rule of thumb is that a project is labour/plant/materials 40/20/40% before overheads. 20% or more discount on 40% of a project is a lot of money. And a builder will quite reasonably want 10% margin, or more, on it too.

As users discard skin, oils and wee. It gets killed by the chlorine but stays there.

That is an inline heater isn't it? so could be used for warming water during filling. I meant a heater on the end of a cable, plugged in one end and splashed in the other. That way the water stays put and gradually gets thicker. The Romans would have heated a sword and plunged it in the water.

There must be a product which is a coil encased in a metal tube. An immersion heater with an enclosure to keep it off the material.

Some are easily manhandleable off the trailer. Some only sell through a bm, so the handling is theirs. Later a digger can hoist it in the hole. Obv @ProDavehas had a heavy one. So yes, ask.

Meet the reps at 2 local BMs. A national one and your local one. Talk through the job and they will soon be chasing you. Online will show you the unit prices so you have a feeling. TP website is handy. Then they will give better prices when they can because if they upset you once, you might be gone. Delivery is included. Save the haggling for the big purchases. The exception is drainage. Usually better to find a local specialist. Thd rep is usually straight with me about what they can't compete on.

Very high chlorine level. So likely to be damaging. I would prefer a foam or bubble wrap from a tub or pool supplier. That will be slightly insulating and totally stop evaporation. Otherwise or as well, a removable cover bearing on the walls, with as much pir as you like.

I went to one once and so can agree that it is low key: compared to any other legal process anyway.

How do I do that? save to the pc memory from Word cloud and delete the cloud file? anything else? what about 5MB photos that could have been very much smaller? Can I readily downsize them?

If it is, then yes. I usually see your posts but maybe was distracted. In that case @SteamyTea that was an excellent suggestion. The experts really were and were good explainers. On the subject of sustainability and carbon. I read today that computer memory / cloud uses more carbon daily than the entire aviation industry, plus masses of water. I have difficulty imagining that. We are to have a clear out of those multiple photos and old files that we don't need. I would rather save my documents on a chip than on cloud, but there isn't much choice. One click now, and another file goes into the sky.

I highly recommend this from radio 4. It is aimed at the radio 4 audience so is free from dumbing down. Concrete science explained and the sustainability issues. https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/m0029rqw?partner=uk.co.bbc&origin=share-mobile

Yes. small but it all adds up.

You haven't finished the sentence....in the afternoon you went and did what?

That only works as a heat reflector if it is onto an air space eg void. Years ago they said it was otherwise but the claim seems to be dropped now. The same applies to a membrane.

That's a good way of delaying the job or passing reposnsibility, if you want to. I think that is extreme. On the other hand, if that works you know it's very ok.

No problem. If doing it yourself then bear in mind the issue of not adding water to the design mix: as well as extra drying time it will crack more. If using a builder they like to add water for their own ease. If getting it delivered, the driver insists on a signature for extra water (because they know the problems arising) . Tell him he is not to add water. If mixing on site, be strict on the mix recipe. you should put polyethene or hessian over it after a few hours, when safe to do so without marking. That keeps it damp and it will be the stronger for it, barely crack visibly, and, counterintuitively dry more quickly after the covering is off. The screed will then hydrate, taking most water into the chemistry and it will dry in 2 weeks or so IF you keep the rain off it. Don't be tempted to heat it. Tell us how it goes please? My experience is mostly with concrete floors of 150mm, or more, desperately needing them dry enough for covering. 1 day per mm = 5 months . Suffice to say it never took more than 2. BUT we followed all the above rules about water and curing.

Tell them your proposal first. Steel protection isn't generally their expertise, and they like to see a detail straight from the brochure.

Good plan! saves measuring repeatedly.

I wasn't aware of this make. Is it readily available and good value? There are other makes available as standard so ask around. Yes this principle is a solution and easy.

Same with timbers. Unless you need lots of dwangs/ noggins. And they will moan about it taking their time to sort it. I once had a job with heritage bricks that were uneven. The brickie simply discarded the bent ones to ground. Our ( not for long) site manager who valued tidyness above the things he didn't understand, had them collected and skipped. Emptying and harvesting the skip stopped this soon enough. So discuss it first. Btw I've said before: in an industry group we calculated that each average skip cost £2,500 when including stuff that shouldn't be in it. I heard myself called 'the skip inspector' , but it worked. Number of waste skips on a £1M job? 4. Perhaps add a metal or timber/paper skip as required.

If i had a lot of depth to fill, i would likely use eps on the bottom rather than subbase or pir. There are diminishing returns with thickness so eps might be optimal there.