saveasteading

That phrase may stay in my mind.

OK I have misunderstood and thought it was new.

I mean the single brick on edge and simple (minimal)? contact of purlin to brick. Any tiny movement will rock that brick. All I'd suggest is 2 bricks instead of one, laid flat, and a timber sole plate.

Gasp. They built that brick to support the roof?

Intumescent paint can go on galvanising. The calculations are indeed complex, but not so for plasterboard. If it is weather prone then cement board is an option. If it is exposed to a potential fire protect it.

That's right. More flexible and a better seal. Clay is for veey heavy loads and for nasty chemicals from factories (though I've seen rotted ones). You've come to the right place if you're picking up such strange and erroneous information. Next.... two 45 ° turns isn't right. You would generally get away with it if only rainwater but it needs to be roddable for foul. So a rodding point and 90° turn is needed. Or 2 at 45°. Plastic is normal for these too. When you have measured, post a sketch. Water hardness is not relevant. Next tconsider aluminium gutters. In this situation plastic is not best, but cast iron is expensive and rusts, plus is low capacity. There is copper effect available in aluminium.

Excellent. Hadn't thought of that. Maybe some armour removed too? I've just looked again and the ducting is plastic and quite flexible. I will be doing this in open air prior to positioning it, so no nasty bends to cause friction.

I have some salvaged steel ducting to encase the cable for a section above ground. In hindsight i should have kept the cabling in it as a drawcord. how do I get a flattish, stiff swa cable through? I have electrician's rods. So I'm thinking pull cord through, then cable..... but how do I grasp the cable? I've seen some harness things but £20+ seems wrong so is maybe not the thing.

Eg it might have picked up the discussion on here: where else does this level of expertise on concrete slab dimples exist?

No it won't. If i am following this fully, they are proposing adding strength after the event. That does not return the bow to horizontal.

It's fair enough for the building inspector to want a formal proposal. Your drawing shows intumescent paint, which you can't use, so your designer or another competent person needs to confirm it is now to be pb, including the spec and thickness. Some bco's will be sufficiently trained in the fire reg's to be allowed to advise*, so it's worth just talking to them first. *their insurers will be very wary of fire risk and responsibility.

OK time for my input. Serious subjects need long and derailed discussions The dimples are the bottom. The other face could be flat or have pretend stone profiling or other patterns... including dimples. In this case they are utility slabs, the small dimples on the top face I'm guessing are caused by stacking the product too soon after manufacture. If you like the dimples for some reason (grip) then it's OK to lay them upwards but they will wear off, and if the slabs are taper edged then there isn't space for grouting. Dimples down.

Apologies. Not the fuse or circuit breaker for the circuit in question , but the RCD serving half of the house. I'm thinking now I will put the swa in from one junction box to another. That will make connections easier and solid. From there I can put in a switch, or not, in cable that is easier to handle.

Can you glue it and cramp it tight? then replace?. the tongue will be gone presumably, but it will match.

These queries seem fair. The sort of thing that could be fiddled. Forged/ different versions of invoices. Mirrors bought for somewhere else. I had a VAT inspector sit opposite me for 3 days, as there was no other desk space. At the satisfactory conclusion he told me he was looking at our books for inconsistencies but also taking notes of subcontractors. He went off with several photocopies of their invoices, and was going to compare them to what these contractors were claiming. ie often a contractor will pay some of the VAT due and use the rest for cash-flow, especially an unusually high sum as 'the vat people won't notice'. the same inspector doesn't investigate them, but flags it, and files these invoices. Perhaps an inspector has checked with your suppliers.

Welcome to the Hernia repair club. I expect they are all different but I had no side effects or long term discomfort or weakness. Available for BH questions to keep your mind alert. Here is one. On your VAT reclaim were there any pro-forma invoices and were they accepted or require prof of payment or perhaps more than that?

More information needed. You have told us that you have 1.5m of distance between the existing fixed points, but not the height difference. The best slope depends on the gradient and the water quantity....you say it is combined, so we also need to know if you have a huge catchment for rain. Plastic is very much easier to work with than clay. I wouldn't dream of using clay unless I was building a motorway or the liquid is nasty.

I found one in my box of bits. Upmarket of insulating tape. I've got some wagos too. Yes. The light is currently disconnected at the adjacent junction box. I can't remember why! Switch in the house was left on in error. Fuse tripped during a huge downpour. Not tripping now the ground had drained. But nothing is ever certain. Whatever, it should be swa not the present cable. It is 23m to the house as photo, but 35m to the front door.

That was the plan. I should have explained better at the start... in series. @-rick- the issue is with thd power cable being faulty. The fuse trips afteg heavy rain. I'm still none the wiser about what outside switch to buy. This is top of the search from screwfix. Same words as @ProDave used earlier. British General IP66 20A 1-Gang 2-Way Weatherproof Outdoor Switch with Neon (54649) Will I need to tie the neutrals together inside it? What is one if those wind- on plastic caps called? Presumably this switch is OK for swa. One more question. 1.5mm2 swa costs £43 for 25m . 2.5mm2 costs £53. Any reason not to invest that £10 in case of future upgrades?

Another thing learned today . I hadn't heard of this. From a quick read up, this would be ideal for the face of the wall, but not underground.

OK thanks. Understood. But if I have a cable that clearly works, including the switch, can't I simply find a nice condition part of it in the attic and join a new cable to it? I appreciate it's not perfect or professional, but will be much better than what is here now, for the interim. And circumstances do not permit pulling down walls and ceilings at present. I have spoken to a couple of really sound electricians and they want to spend thousands on exploratories, tests and rewiring. And of course I'll still end up putting the swa in. My interim switch idea was partly so that I can do this diy bit, while ensuring it is ready for a proper job when funds and circumstances allow. ie new swa cable 25m fixed to post and wall. Switch. Short (7m) cable from switch into house, joining to the existing in a new junction box indoors. That will be much easier to handle too than 32m swa. Then later the link from there can be surveyed and completed. Which doesn't resolve my original question ..what is the outdoor switch called? 3 wires in, 3 wires out I assumed. Or it is live in and out of the switch, and join the neutral ends within the box? I've looked at screwfix and other specs, and instructions within the switches I have already, and indeed they throw around the terms switch/gang/ way/ pole as if they are interchangeable. @joth thanks to you too. The circuit you show doesn’t apply as my existing is a simple switch. But I think you havd provided the beginnings of an inkling of how L1 to Com works and doesn't go bang.

Here is the existing treble switch. Very congested, so I hope you can "read" it. To complicate it, the left hand switch is 2 way. AND in turning off fuses i find that the right hand switch, the one that does the floodlight in question is on a different circuit to the other 2 switches. And yet I only see 2 cables.... over to you Mr Electrician.

Pictures show the existing cable up the wall. Should that be swa into the house or will normal cable in a duct suffice? I will take the internal switch face off ...but isn't it simply going to be 3 cores heading off into the attic which are either on or off? I will ask annoying questions later about gangs, switches and poles... it seems unnecessarily confusing. Eg 3 gangs means 3 switches. But 2 gangs means... not 2 switches but what you said

Ok, so i put in swa with a junction box both ends. Are you saying that i should also use swa from there into the house? I'm happy (prefer) to keep the switching simple, so either switch works independently and both have to be on for it to work. Being of simple mind I like to connect 3 cores in and 3 cores out (or 2, and link the earths) but will take instruction if there is a better way.. What is such a switch called? Double pole double throw?

Thanks. And you even anticipate the reason for doing this. There appears to be a fault in the underground cable as it fails in wet weather. It must be 30 years old and prob put in by ultra-amateurs / as cheap as possible. It used to work a 250W floodlight but is only about 30W now with a replaced light. I suspect the underground cable is domestic, indoor, 3 core, so intend to replace it with armoured from the post that has the light, to the house wall. Here I will put the new switch. Perhaps good practice also dictates a junction box? I could just join the existing cable but it has been in the sun and weather for decades. So I then intend to take a 2.5mm domestic cable into the house and there make a new connection (it is in the attic so easy to access and adapt.) I would encase that outside cable in ducting. Tracing the existing indoor cable back to the indoor switch is likely to be very convoluted and messy. It is a 3 gang switch at the front door, operating the lobby, an adjacent outdoor wall light and the distant light which is the issue. Just one of these