saveasteading

That's good I think, as it shows there isn't an impermeable crust floating on the top. Advice to all if you encounter such a crust...it supports a heavy object such as a hammer or brick for just long enough for you to look away, then bloop.

My thought, with little or no evidence, is that the houses that ProDave goes into are the sort where they get the likes of ProDave in to do something properly. They already have insulation and other improvements. The ones he doesn't get invited to are the ones with scope for easy improvement. Many houses have hardly any insulation, I believe, or 50mm from when it was a new idea and 2". They would benefit from another 150. After that there is diminishing return (in my opinion but never proven) and I am surprised that 500mm is mentioned as a possibility. What would be your choice for 1. cynical improvement of epc at least cost? 2. Best value for actual improvement?

You cannot meet the general binding rules if you are using: a soakaway (designed for draining rainwater) installed after December 2007. But if it was installed before 2007 then it is ok....carry on. (?)

I read this to mean that an existing septic tank and existing soakaway (pre 2007) do not need to be replaced. If you use a non-standard system (such as a well, borehole and soakaway) You cannot meet the general binding rules if you are using: a soakaway (designed for draining rainwater) installed after December 2007

Or try, then give up, happy that it is tight.

I am not about to work it out, but would think that the order of benefits might be (mostly because they are non-invasive) 1. loft insulation. Many houses have next to none. Pipe insulation while up there. 2. double glazing. Astonishingly still not done in many council houses, let alone private landlords. 3. Draught reduction. Not many points for this, but an easy improvement 4. ASHP and new rads... not so easy in flats, although most Spanish flats have it through the wall as air blower. These at least will make a big difference to comfort and fuel usage, which is not necessarily the same as scores points for EPC

Best remind your SE of the bounce. I would think 50mm will make a huge difference. Although the screed above will hold it all together, even without there is no way the blocks will fall through even if broken. The crack is a very jagged line and you would have to pull the 2 parts of the block apart about 20mm before it fell The block is held in place at the ends by your preliminary grout or the concrete, so it will sit tight. Relax.

The fundamentals of the report will still be there. they can look to see if the flood maps have changed...if not then a simplel letter to say so. if so, then is probably still easy to review. worth a word with them anyway.

can run on lower setting. i think 1/3, 2/3, 3/3. There is another kind we have that sits on the floor like an old electric fire, about £25, and again 3 settings.

If that is the case then it will keep most rain out and can breathe. probably not the problem. All the things you mentioned need looking at. DPC: is this a physical dpc or injected? Flashings at chimneys. very vulnerable to ingress, and the build-up of muck including dead things. Also v difficult to inspect. Airbricks. these will not be ventilating the walls, but under the ground floor. They often get covered and you should check but that probably isn't the issue here. Chimneys. You have chimney pots without covers. These were great when fire were burning all the time. Now rains falls straight in and lands where the chimney stack cranks...usually at about half way up the wall of each floor. I would try to find an independent local expert. NOT a render company as they usually use one product for better or worse. Not a builder unless they can first prove some real knowledge...make a checklist of suggestions from us lot, don't tell the builder, and see if they match. An Architect or Engineer or Surveyor (Note the Capitals) will give an honest , warts and all report. They may even say that it isn't an easy matter, and the cure will be partial. Again, check that they are expert in this gutty, unsexy side of building. Many don't have this expertise. These professionals will charge, but that is better than thousands spent on something useless or worse. For a bit more help from us, could you do a sketch and mark where the worst damp or damage is? including the chimneys, but not necessarily exactly to scale.

To paint over rust stains and plumbing leaks, I have used stain blocker paint and it works very well Quite expensive for a small tin, but one coat does it. It is then good at accepting emulsion in a single coat. I have had a different problem with paint colours, where several areas gave become lighter. I am pretty sure this was because I used Painter's Mate to fill some cracks and hollows, and it seems to absorb the colour. Moral...use powder filler as intended.

No. That is the correct process before concreting. Just to confirm, you are concreting over the whole area? how thick?

We bought one of these for our site office which isn't insulated. works well and has power options. We also bought the stand but that depends on your space These heaters seem to have nearly all reverted to having a glowing element. I suspect people didn't trust heat that they couldn't see. This won't be quite as efficient as the 'black' units, as this is issuing light and warming more air. On the plus side you are less likely to leave it on by mistake, Wall / Stand Mount Patio Heater 2kW IP24 650 to 2000W £58

Unlikely to be significant unless these are old, shallow footings. In any case a dowel would be drilled in how far? 200mm? would spread a very small proportion of the new load onto the old footings, and I can't see what benefit that would bring. In any case a tiny movement of the new structure would be better on the junction than at some random position. Plus a drill hole horizontally into an old footing is a pain to do, down the bottom of the new trench (perhaps even under water), , and might weaken or break the old concrete. A dowel is fine, though if it makes everyone happier. No harm will be done. I reckon most of them go in a very short distance and the end gets thrown away. (I have seen this when the culprit has forgotten to hide all the ends)

The bounce also reduces dramatically when the screed goes on. I do hope your have a concrete screed next, and not insulation. firstly the blocks will be rather loosely placed and will not contribute the overall strength, unless you fix them as mentioned above. Secondly, and more importantly, when you add say 100 to the top of a beam it becomes composite and that concrete is now compressing whenever load is put onto the floor. It also spreads the load out further, so onto more beams. In approximate terms , you double the thickness and quadruple the stiffness. So stop bouncing on it or you may crack more blocks. what is the construction from now?

Yes I have found that helps. there are lots of seriously knowledgeable people on here, and they will browse through new posts and pick the ones they are best able to help with. I too rather skimmed through and may have missed some points. So, hI, you will get lots of help here. Why not run with the point that most concerns you first?

So don't consider them any further. However I am guessing that the much cheaper houses look like prefabs or sheds, are on the small side and are standard units that can't be changed.. All of these things keep prices down. If you can find a standard design that you like and NOT make any changes then it can save a great deal of money. These house designs have been perfected over time to be efficient and economical to build. This will also save a lot of Architect cost as there is nothing to be done.

A problem with multiple sites can be that the first buyer has to arrange services at high cost, that the subsequent buyers then get the benefit from. That is why the vendor should sensibly have already arranged mains to the site, suitable for connection. Electric, water, road access. Why don't they? Cost (and they may not have the resources) wishful thinking, lack of project management skills. A lot of plots were put on the market just too late for the boom, and the vendors are not prepared to drop to the current market price. If you contact the water and electric companies, prepare to be shunted round lots of departments until you find the one person that will help, which they will. Phoning is usually the only way if the enquiry is preliminary and vague. You can legally start the approved works while you wait for the revisions to be approved. This would be a bad idea if the changes were to the geometry. Broadband. Go on site with your phone and check the signal. If no good, then find which companies are better for signal round there. Satellite signal should get better and cheaper??? somebody else advise? BUT they will never put in fibre or even copper to your site, so you are dependent on any technological changes in future.

Not a problem. they were probably damaged in handling, and the foot traffic is not the real cause. When the screed goes on top they become very much stronger as it all bonds together. For now, to redcue your concerns, if you pour over a cement slurry mix and work it into the gaps, the blocks will bind together and not joggle when walked on. Just cement and water in pourable consistency, applied with bucket and broom, or even watering can. You possibly don't even need to replace these blocks, but I would.

I forgot to tick the 'notify replies' button, so doing it this time.

I got a response in 3 days just this last week. Perhaps my question was easier. Welcome to the Buildhub community. Briefly for now. Drainage. Don't panic, there are ways. Tell us more, without giving away names and location. If you speak to a mason, they will have a use for the stone and should take it free or cheaply. Or use it as an occasional quarry? Lots of experts on here. The heating system may influence the building design so best decide soon. However I predict that you will be urged towards Air Source Heat Pump (ASHP ) and underfloor heating (UFH). Depending on your preferences, add a wood burner for the aesthetic and for a quick heat boost.

Not the way I understand it. It is what I would do anyway: either that or after research just do it if I was confident of the proposed works. You are right that some councils may not assist in the slightest. Others may say it is their opinion that it doesn't need permission, or fill in the forms and send money.. But without checking fees, for such a small project you would be looking at similar fees for full planning or LDC. £120 or so??

Project that will cost £200 plus your own labour? Add Planning fee £120 and drawings and submission etc. Submission by yourself? Amateur sketches and a photo should suffice. There is another option. Letter to planners stating what you intend an asking if it requires permission and an application. They will likely say 'no' and you are in the clear.

Should be easy and relatively inexpensive for he consultants to decide if the reports are still valid, and if they can extrapolate to the enlarged area. Then they can write a simple statement to the effect and all are happy.

O2 must be heavy Oxygen.