saveasteading

I would say, after the trusses are up. Heavy structural work done and any fixings to the original building are not going to damage your new insulation. Then all the insulation can be done in one operation, and cut in to suit. The corner from pin to yellow will need some attention. Very helpful drawing btw.

Yes, but as the heating water from ASHP is only 30 C at best efficiency , you will need large areas of radiator. Some study required, and look into what sort of space you have available. I think there are cleverly designed rads which will disperse the heat more quickly, but that they are quite expensive. Others on here will know better than I.

The BCO will tell you if there are any specific concerns, in which case you must address them. If it is a standard question the 'always a bungalow' should suffice. Anyway you would tell them that in the phone call and find out what was required, if anything. BCO needs closure in the file.

The water will be cold long after the winter too. BUT is it not simpler to circulate a closed loop into the burn, and to use antifreeze in the loop? Then instruct it to think in K not C and it will get energy out of the burn which will become just a tiny bit colder. How much energy though I leave to the experts on here.

OK so the question really is whether you can use the existing french drain or need additional drainage/filtering for the quantity. How much land do you have? Fancy a pond which might resolve everything and be 'a good thing'

And no project mid-way through at the time? I would show you my workshop if I could turn round in it to take a picture. Have a dismantled, very big, sound-bar filling the bench. Just needs a capacitor changed, but it is a bit scary and a tomorrow job...this last year.

That may be all you have to say, and you can do that yourself. Ahhh, the BCO not planning. So it seems to be a routine question, and a routine answer should suffice. If you have proof to hand it would be helpful to attach it.

There is usually a reason for asking about potential contamination. For example nearby landfill, mucky factories, the history of the site or area. Very often it needs a simple answer such as it has had a house on this plot for 100 years. ie it wasn't previously a garage/gasworks/slaughterhouse/chemical works. do you know the history of the site? what is nearby?

Great idea. A problem with GSHP is that the ground gets cold, unless there is a new source of heat, eg water flowing through gravel. Zoothorn, You have a constant supply of new water. Any idea what temperature?

With floods being such a serious risk in some areas, it is incredible to me that planners allow new housing to tip rainwater into the river systems. Even when controlled, they allow about 5 litres/second/hectare out. That is a lot of water. In my opinion: the planners don't understand it plus it is not their responsibility developers accept the constraint as it allows development where other means wont work. Environment Agency have very little clout Government: don't understand and want to please the developers.

You can't , or shouldn't, connect directly to a stream without permission. This is water that currently soaks into the ground, but would instead be flushed immediately into the stream, then down to wherever floods might occur. It all adds up. So you might need permission. Even if you don't, this is usually down to planners non-understanding or caring. They allow a lot of drainage that could be much better. Going to soakaways is better if you can, and if they work in your ground. Big IFs. It is a planning issue, not building control, in the first instance.

I like French drains as they spread the water further, and have more ground surface area to dissipate into, which tends to work better and is also good environmentally. What is the existing drain for/doing ? Where were the gutters going to connect before this idea? If the french drain failed and water rose to the surface, where would it go next?

It is less than in a change of floor covering. However if that was added to an actual change in floor covering, and perhaps some construction tolerances, it could feasibly become a trip risk.

B and Q has little relation to a domestic situation. On a building that size, if fairly modern, there will be a very big steel grillage near the middle. This is used over a certain size of floor (2,000m2 as a vague memory.) elsewhere there are also multiple crack induce joists, which may have a flexible filler. At the big joint there is a complete break in the floor slab. Elsewhere the crack control mesh runs through the joints. Don't concern yourself with that, except to note that it is 'a thing' that is taken seriously. They are not expansion joints, but contraction joints as all concrete shrinks, and doesn't expand again unless it gets very hot. All concrete shrinks , as yours has done. I don't know the science of your screed, but presumably the heat is forcing water out of the chemical structure that has been formed when the screed was hardening. Water is taken in chemically as a part of the new material, and not all of it has to dry. I'm just surprised this happens at your temperature. The manufacturer should tell you why this has happened and if it will now be stable or expand again when cooling and perhaps taking water back into the chemical structure. The drawing is excellent, thanks. The yellow line could have been forecast, and there should have been a contraction joint near to that point, to control the crack to a nice straight line. The red crack will not stop at mid slab, and the question will be whether it carries on until it meets yellow, dives off at an angle to a door opening, or dissipates in multiple tiny cracks. None are likely to be long term problems once they stabilise. But I wouldn't be sure that have yet. Notting nasty is going to happen, but there is a risk of tiles cracking if the floor shrinks or relaxes back to where it was.

As someone who wrecked a cylinder trying to adjust a connection...these tanks are incredibly thin copper and strong only when full of water. Unless designed for hanging they have to sit on a base (could be a very strong shelf). Spread the load as far as you can.

11 pages on, but as well as helping zoothorn's flue issues we have gone into diy hydro-electrics, torque, nesting birds and ...I can't remember now. Will the next question be as engaging?

It can always be explained. I f it matters to you, then show us a picture and we can try. I am very surprised that the screed was not considered dry after 6 months. Was the area sealed off so that the air remained cold/ humid? My guess (just for fun) is that the 'unexplained' crack is an area of least resistance to the shrinkage that has happened everywhere, and the ufh is acting as crack control...so a place where the pipes are absent , or running the other direction.

I have fitted one, and it was made specifically to slip over the flue section. Therefore it only needed some fire mastic and pushed on.

I think corten is a brilliant material, especially when used for its intended purpose in structures. As an architectural finish it has its place, but has these 'flaws' as markc explains, and with better knowledge than I. Waxed corten completely defeats the original intention of the architect. Controlled corrosion/rawness of the material. 'Honesty of the material' is probably quoted too.

A decent car parking space is 4.8m long, so that 16ft distance sounds plenty. If the budget allows, an automatic gate is a luxury that you will appreciate on a filthy February night....and every day. It also allows for the gate to start opening as you approach and click the control from 50m away , and so even a longer than average vehicle will not have to leave an end sticking out in the road.

That happens automatically, and is the purpose of corten. Once indoors it certainly wont rust any more, and sealing would not be necessary except to keep greasy fingers off it, (and rust off clothes??....if it does come off, I have stroked the stuff and I don't think any ca me off) No comment on whether it is aesthetically interesting as that is up to you.

There is a lot of built in smell in gas, so that we detect leaks. So the leak could be very minor. Still best to check it though as your gas is leaking away and there is a stink. Oldbury WM ....ahhh I remember the smell from the factory where they make the smell additive. Not as nice as passing the Wagonwheel factory in Edinburgh, or the breweries of Edinburgh or Burton, but memorable

Neither the nut nor the bolt should fall off. But if the bolt is fitted from below then it is obvious by visual inspection that there is a missing fixing. Not so easy to see if the bolt is popping through from above, with no nut. Fitting the bolt from above is easier of course, thus more likely for a nut to be omitted. A subtle benefit but worthwhile.

That stove is very cheap. When I have poked at different sources the quality to price relationship has been fairly obvious, until the very expensive ones. I assume you have done research and comparisons and this is ok.

We have just been told by the BCO that a boxed-in section of flue requires an access hatch for inspection (in case the flue is suspected of leaking. This make sense but I think is intended for service ducts rather than complete and insulated boxings. Costs £30 so we are simply agreeing. For an exit through the roof I will be contemplating fitting one of these above the vapour control. It is always difficult to seal around a round flue without these. The red ones are made for hot pipes. Then the roofer can do whatever he always does as well.