saveasteading

They can, although it will actually be from their insurer, so you have cover in case of a huge claim. BUT they don't have to, and it adds little value anyway. Any qualified and fully insured professional will have PI (professional Indemnity) insurance , and this covers you for (from memory) 10 or 12 years. No extra cost, just ask for a copy of their cover (which has cost them a lot annually). But in the case of a problem you can only claim for their element of responsibility, not necessarily for the whole matter. When any of our clients asked for a design warranty our insurer was fine with it....it actually reduced risk they said because the terms were so defined. Perhaps, but isn't it more that you want what isn't available? The more you put a project entirely in the hands of one party, either project manager or a design and build contractor, the more you are covered.....but you have to pay them for the management and risk.. I'd be interested to hear from anyone who had a successful claim on a warranty. Insurance companies' priority is often to find a way out of liability. Next they try to pass the responsibility on to one of the professionals (under their PI) , which is protection you already have. I think most issues are with build quality, not primary design. As to bad planning advice. Of course we don't know the circumstances and perhaps it was wrong advice. But if planning permission was certain, there would be no need to apply, and there are lots of grey areas. Does the contract say that he guaranteed approval? If the advice was clearly completely silly, then you have a claim against the Architect, and if he uses the term Architect, then he has to be ARB registered, and there is a complaints process.

screwfix £1.07.. Just check the dimensions.

I checked with the team...we have set up a new account just as the couple doing the project.

Yes, There isn't much light to start it fading yet. Also it lets the shed move and shrink, which looks bad after you have stained it. I agree to use high quality material. The labour is the same, maybe less. To keep the colour on a shed I suggest using light oak varnish. It goes on much the same colour as 'preservative treated shed', which isn't such a good name. But that colour will then stay. I always used Sadolin but Ronseal is prob fine.

The great thing about mdf is that it bends any direction. If ready painted beware the manufacturer's sticker which they always seem to put on the good side. Perhaps there is a way of removing it without the paint. The thin adhesive doesn't usually grip , so works well on flat surfaces. If there are twists you need the gunky kind. No nail holes is good, esp as non-shrink caulk always seems to shrink for me.

I look forward to being rebutted on this, but here are some generlaisation: Architects are taught presentation and self-belief throughout uni. That is a great boost in their careers, but perhaps doesn't allow for enough self-reflection. In time they change, or go different directions, and few with the utter self-belief are involved in modest house design...they just have to be more practical and try to understand budget. Civil Engineers mostly end up in general management, having learnt to juggle options and decisions. Structural Engineers are more focussed on numbers. There are few who can juggle the disciplines like Gus. I thought I would met many in the industry but only a valuable few. I went to a lecture once by the head of a large architectural practice. His name on the letterhead. He said that he did concepts and passed it down. They made it work in principle and passed it on. Eventually the graduate had to make it work and keep the rain out. He proposed that this was perhaps back to front, but wasn't about to change.

I had a load fail, through wear internally. They were cheap multipacks from one of the sheds. The problem was the interface in the picture where the hard spindle wore out the softer latch. I bought a stack of replacements from Ironmongery Direct, which have been fine

Did you get an indication out of him on the price of doors? Our joiner has an account, so we could have used that for the 'access' and paid Howdens direct. This would depend on agreement that any delivery or quality issues would be your problem not theirs. But there was no need. I'll have to check but I think we did get our own account, by showing business credentials. Depends on your circumstances. Needing a kitchen too?

If there is drainage on site or you put it in early, it is worth looking at a loo that can discharge to it. saves a lot of emptying. We once bought a saniflo to get to a more distant drain. Or when the roof is on, knock up a room around a future toilet. A wc only costs about £60

Full marks. Have you checked if the fibre-cement is asbestos free? It looks as if it is modern enough to be polypropylene not asbestos. If so, it doesn't have to come off and you can build above it for insulation and weather (IF allowed for height) and below for appearance. But you might choose to strip and start again anyway, but keep the purlins. IanR solution. Returning to question 1. What is the cost? I don't know. Most people are saying about £2,000/m2 for new-build. If that is accurate I can only advise you to allow more, for the hassles and unknowns, and perhaps designers who don't want (or understand how) to optimise with what is available. For example I have seen loads of designs which say to beak out all the concrete slab, then rebuild. I wouldn't, but they have. Not their money, or it didn't cross their mind. Did you ever tell us approx area of the country? You don't need to, as all this discussion is publicly available in a search.

Yes if the condition is poor and you are in the hands of designers. No, x 1 if it is in good condition and you can use the structure to your advantage. The downside to me is the constraints, not the the cost. Or anywhere between. Stoph 43 you can see that I think it can be done at economical cost, while some others say it can't. We are both right, as we don't know the project, your team, or you.

Well, it is much better than nothing. Not having that, they use the ground or disappear to cafes, garages and pubs. The rules are common sense and civility really. Think of yourself as the contractor and allow for their safety and comfort within reason. If he is the only contractor then you can offload the responsibility to him to some extent. But what if the van is away collecting materials? As to safety, what would be the plan if workers got soaked? could they dry off? And very importantly what if someone was injured? where would the first aid kit and treatment space be? And if someone is covered in concrete they must be able to wash it off thoroughly and quickly. If there isn't a comfortable space to rest, or a decent toilet, then they will disappear to somewhere more pleasant, and you will lose some time. Can we get away with inferior facilities. Usually: depends on the workers. Should you? No. Will I get in trouble? Yes if there is an incident or complaint. Even using existing facilities on site (or next door or down the road at the garage) can be dubious. A safety inspection often includes the inspector asking the workers (not a boss) where they go for toilet, hand-washing etc. If they can't take the inspector to it, and get access, then there are issues. If it involves taking boots and coats off and traversing a beige carpet to an immaculate toilet, you aren't believed. But if there is a utility wc, more likely. The chance of a visit is very low, but these are the principles, and I would follow them as good practice and civility.

I would be chipping off the mortar to find if there is a dpc to be seen. While at it take off the mortar back to the corner, and the extent of the internal damp, as it is very likely that dampness is climbing up past the dpc. I don't think you answered if this is a new problem. Which direction does this wall face?

The outer skin passes the column here and is probably more than your allowable thickness. but not much. I wonder if anyone knows how much or little constitutes complying? And is there a dimension recorded at the planners? If it is a problem then is it possible to shave off the necessary amount of eps, and inset the blocks? OR inset the whole wall to line up with your permitted building line, and then overlay the gap at the column with PIR to the available thickness.

Howdens are strict about being trade only. We went to them with 2 kitchens to order and it was clear they were not about to break policy, and asked who our joiner was. As it happens the family business does have an account so that was sorted. I think this is fair, as they are entitled to sell only to trade, and it would annoy their regular contractors to miss them out of the arrangement. Howdens used to have 2 price lists: one for public and one for trade, with about 20% added, which covers handling, margin and risk. If not using a contractor, then I suggest you knock up a letterhead for your 'business'. Doesn't have to be limited. You will be on project number 1 at present. You surely have accounts at some merchants by this stage, or at least a history of purchase. They might confirm you have been trading with them. Not that you are looking for a credit account, as they will want full payment. I can only assume that the doors are appropriately priced, otherwise they wouldn't sell many. Think my first stab would be....visit depot and look at doors.. say you need to know the cost for 28 of them, and that you will open an account if necessary, but without knowing the price you couldn't possibly consider them, all in very polite and friendly manner. Bottom line is that we are buying from them. The quality is fine, and the service has been good. Sitting with them while they alter the design and units is much better when, for example, you can just stand up and handle all the door types. The price was realistic from the start, then nudged down a bit, and a bit more. Please keep us informed on the process. We haven't started on doors yet , and will have a similar number.

Not necessarily. We understand different things. For me, electronics is magic. Maths was ok until differentiation (passed but not understood) But how a brick is hot in a box, then you let the heat out by opening the box sounds simple and logical to me. So if you don't get it, it neither means that it is illogical nor that it is something to worry about: It needs someone who does.

I would also specify 2 layers of dpm. The bottom one keeps the damp below the structure, but also sand out of the insulation. The top one is essential to prevent the slab from leaking between the insulation slabs, and maybe floating it.

So it is not worth thousands. 37m2, plus laps and cutting waste. 4.8 x 2.4m,,, so you need about 4 sheets at.£60 Change to A142 and it saves you half the cost. £120 is not to be sniffed at, and the whole principle of reducing materials should be in the SEs policy. Using handier , smaller sheets there are more laps. Presumably only for crack control, but the SE can explain. I would ask the SE if you can use lighter mesh. Also why the slab is 150 thick? it is sitting on insulation with a fraction of the strength. This could be a 60mm screed. 150mm is enough for a light warehouse settle for 100mm and you save 2m3 concrete. Why? good for your wallet, your back, and saves the planet steel and concrete. If he says no, do please ask why? Because it is normal is not a good answer. 100mm concrete with A142 mesh please Mr SE. If there is a good reason, please let us know. There you are, now save over £300 and a lot of labour.

What region? Price will depend on scope of works. Planning drawings, without construction detail, and walk away is not usually going to be that much

No, it wasn't forensic standard. And it was due to the skip in the morning. how does that work?

To avoid jumping to conclusions, More questions. Where inside the house is the worst of the damp? relative to this picture. I don't see a change jn the dampness between the pictures. Where and how far has the dampness increased today? Does the trench at the bottom ever fill with water? Any bricklaying experts there? the wider mortar course seems very wide to me, even if it includes dpc. Is it normal to have such a thick joint, and also to point over the dpc? I wonder if this bed has been removed and redone, as the trowel work is pretty shabby, as are several joints below dpc. JAG, as an intermediate remedy, can you divert the downpipe to flow onto the garden? If the paving runs down from the house then that will do it. If the paving runs towards the house then that is something else we need to know.

I took some to bits to salvage the bricks. It's such a simple, primitive thing. Heater heats the blocks which are enclosed in a box. Lift flaps to release heat from blocks to air. Hot air rises and draws room air in to be heated, and rise. Close flaps and repeat. If there was any insulation to contain the heat until wanted, I can't remember.

My immediate thought too. Never a great idea. JAG good pic. Can we have another showing up to the gutter, and another the other direction.

Could you leave the hrster on, with a simole timer in the socket?

It requires understanding the structure and how water moves, and most little builders just build. It is good that they have declined rather than meddled. We recently had some very poor proposals for a basement....a specialist who does one thing only, right or wrong. So you need the right builder, or Architect, or Building Surveyor. Keep looking, but it has to be the right person who totally understands. There is always an answer, and it is often simple to resolve, but let us help first with those photos. And also, how long have you lived there, how long has there been a problem, and do you feel that it is it closely linked to rain? in my experience, it is usually to do with a covered damp proof course, and often from ground levels being built up.