saveasteading

Indoors/ outdoors/ manual/ motorised? Ou of interest I looked for one on a Spanish diy shop website. 2m width maximum is the main issue. External Blinds in plastic, €140. BUT Add roller, pull cords runners, mosquito net... all specials. And labour of course. So I'm thinking your quote isn't too bad. If it was a garage door it would cost £1200, but maybe a lot more at 3m wide.

Did you find that the differences were fairly clear? Would they talk cost, even in general terms?

I think that's OK. A joist has very little stress towards the mid height. It also reduces towards the ends.

That's what I was wondering. The exhibitors must do well enough out of them with the £££ leads. Are they mostly kit builders? Plus planning agents, architects? I'd love to overhear the sales pitches. Yes, but the one I went to recently, was very strict on business only. Quite rightly so as otherwise you wouldn't get near the exhibitors for public wanting free advice. I got lots of good contacts and info, and a year's worth of pens. Sometimes there are in-between exhibitions.... that's where I've encountered lying, ignorant agents for rubbish products.... no names here.

Presumably the previous owner went though such thought processes. Do you know them? Can you ask? Have you looked at all the planning documentation? It will be online along with any previous applications. At least you might design the house in such a way that another house may be possible in the future. Basic questions. Who did the planning application that got permission? Havd you / Do you intend to engage professionals at this stage?

Don't just charge ahead on these. Good value starts now. Eg you say septic tank is going in. Make sure this will fit in to your completed project. Not best value installing a septic tank now and then abandoning it for a treatment tank later.

Firstly I'd say that you should expect this to take 3 years. Going faster costs money. Secondly. Homework. You will get help on here but not a free design service. Become expert. Meet neighbours, become involved locally. Look at other projects in the area. Read BH. Read the building regulations. Thirdly. Your design at this stage must consider the practicality and cost. Now some questions. What size of house do you plan? Do you know if your budget is suitable? How much diy do you intend? Do you have a view on the build method? Don't despair.

Did they give you numbers? Basically was there some radon or none?

I'm surprised. Are they designed as such?

Let's see these cracks. Otherwise, timber from so long ago was probably close grained and strong. Is it straight though, as you have to get a good contact? If you can reuse them, you're not being mean, you're being green.

I like that idea. On the steading we found doors that had lists of sheep numbers going to market, some farm workers had written their names , and there was some joshing. This has all been kept in-situ. So you @Kelvinwill be that history in future. Tell us what's in the box?

It's easy for them , being the high points and in a plane. If they use the right screws with a coarse thread then the pull-out force is good. And to avoid damaging the panel simply use more screws to more crowns, to spread the load. I don't know if installers know all this, and you can be sure there are cowboys aplenty. I guess though that the suppliers of the kit are learning better standard solutions through experience. Reducing certainly.

Tuna swimming around the undercroft?

For others on here. I offered standing seam but always told the client the pitfalls and cost difference. Ie that there must be zero penetrations. That fixing solar panels would be challenging and any future damage would be difficult to repair. Advantages? The absence of screws esp if badly fitted. Appearance. Curves and not possible with all trapezoidal cladding. As it happened, every client (hundreds) chose screwed trapezoidal. But none was domestic. So I never did one and can't advise on any surprise benefits or problems.

Absolutely not venting into the void. Condensation and damp will be caused. Your void should be vented but not enough for this purpose. There is a risk of grease and other foodstuff buildup too, if the filters fail. The hob extractor is for the cook's visual benefit and comfort, and heats the cook's feet and the room rather than wasting it. I assume the filters are efficient and take out the smells. Ventilation of the room must then be by fan to outside.. heat recovered or thrown away is your decision. So in your case just a simple fan with a switch. I've looked at these hobs. The duct seems to be quite small and convoluted through the kitchen unit, so the fan will only be powerful enough to vent at the skirting as designed, not through additional ducting.

Thanks I took all your expert advice to do it again properly. Everything tighter and a dab of fernox to make sure. In my defence... Knowing more about steel buildings than plumbing... if there is a leak in a steel clad roof the likeliest problem is a screw with a complete bodge covered in mastic. Second is a screw overtightened, breaking the seal from the washer.

Unfortunately it doesn't follow that they understand what standing seam is, and the measures required. The consequences of a bad installation could be dire. But some good ones will know and do it appropriately.

I see there is a selfbuild exhibition in Farnborough in January. Free tickets being Facebooked at me, but I won't be going because of distance. Any of you experienced lot thinking of going and reporting back? I'd do it for the team and the greater good, if it was close... might have to have a cover story to get taken seriously as a potential newbie I suppose.

(cheaper than plywood) In a Spanish diy store, a solar panel 2.4 x 1.2m is €88 Inc taxes. External ply in the same store is €57. That's close to The OP's headline. I don't think that in B and Q, you could load a trolly with solar panels, inverter etc. There's a kit of 2 panels inverter, batteries, plus all electrics back to the switchboard for €4,000. I expect an instruction leaflet is included. Sounds scary to me.

Yes that's trapezoidal. I have only flicked through this but it looks as if they are fixing only to the crowns of the panels. The steel will be 1mm thick or so. I hope they have an approved spec for the right self tappers into that panel, or it could end up on the car park, come Storm Sod.

Full report later. I'm pretty sure it's only when flushing. Spellchecker changed that to blushing. It was late so I just emptied the cistern, mopped the floor, opened a can and hoped for a plumber's secret to be revealed. Eg whatever you do don't under/over tighten. There are no instructions and the bottom nuts are plastic, so I assumed that it should be finger tight only. The new gasket is a foam rubber thing so could be squashed a lot more, for better or worse.

Be happy. Do something else then decide if it really still bothers you.

There was a leak at the rubber doughnut thing, so I've fitted a new one, and new bolt connectors. But it's as bad. I have either over or under tightened, I'm thinking. So tomorrow I will try again. Daylight will help. Should I add plumbers gunk as a matter of course? The instructions say nothing. First though I intend to fill the cistern, but not flush, to check it's not at the fixings.

Great . That's the entire point of standing seam, with the appearance becoming a sales thing later. It would be essential to fix through to the structure. Hence my concern. Cladding flies off or holes in it. So I agree that you retain the house roof as intended and forgo solar on it.

Wind wise as @Gus Potter says , a good SE won't be phased by this, or the snow buildup. I have heard of bad installations through standing seam though. Your average contractor doesn't know about SS. Is yours fitted by snapping onto brackets that are fixed to the roof? Is it floating? Ie Allowed to expand and contract? More later.