saveasteading

The tool I use most, by far, is a drill with settings for speed and torque. Light weight is a boon. The hammer option is not ideal except for very easy material like lightweight blocks. Having seen inside a broken drill, the hammer option is quite primitive. Hence sds for any serious masonry drilling and the cost may save days of struggling. What is your time worth? If you are doing lots of timber cutting then I think a bench saw may be justified and perhaps mains power isn't a handicap. For boards you must have a circular saw, or jig saw.... and on it goes.

Agreed. Batteries are expensive. It's not an easy answer as you could spend thousands easily. I've been borrowing deWalt recently. And it is generally the high spec, so hundreds each. When I can't borrow I use my own Einhell stable.* The difference is apparent but both have their place. That drill you mention isn't top end so more diy than professional. But maybe that's what suits. You also have to consider weight. If you have a big drill with heavy battery it becomes a burden in a long day. Some tools need big batteries or always 2 more on charge. So yes try that. I'd also consider one with SDS. It depends what you want to do. The own brands are not such a great bet. I have 3 I really should throw out because they are broken down, out of alignment or just a pain to use. But I bought a Titan circular saw and a heavy breaker. The latter cost the same a 2 weeks hire: but is nowhere near as good as a hired one. There you are: not an answer. Tell us what jobs and how intensely used and it would become clearer. Btw joiner has switched from deWalt battery nail gun back to Paslode. But he's nailing hundreds a day. * currently with free battery from Wickes, so very good value for my work intensity. I've got 7 or 8 things and never a problem.

Rhetorical, or do we expect our man in the field to check this by drone or trained eagle? Perhaps the more advanced met maps tell us? A good point anyway.

For a little comfort. We put this stair in as temporary access. The post is really too small to bear directly on the screed. A permanent solution will be to have a much bigger bearing area by plate, or by forming a footing in place of insulation. But do notice that after a couple of weeks of burly builders and carrying materials, there is no damage and the screed is only 40 to 50 thick. So it's not a panic but does need a considered solution, as already discussed.

Sadly I'm not surprised. Eg. I was once seconded to one of the big UK consultants who were engaged by one of the world's biggest (US). I was handed stuff to design that I had only studied af student level. I thought "why me" then gradually realised that the place was full of agency sourced designers and I knew as much, maybe more, than most of them. It was basically " design this middle eastern new city". I did ask at higher level and was told not to worry as it will all be redone later. I've looked on Google Earth and it seems to be in place. On the positive side though, this became part of a spontaneous and rigorous questioning at my Professional Interview. It was clear that this was also a concern to my interviews, both high in Engineering circles, so perhaps it is unusual. Plus I've engaged perhaps 5 Stuctural Engineering practices over the years. No doubts, good teamwork. The thing is, @Gus Potter, if they are found wanting what will happen to them? They aren't in professional bodies that could sanction them, so prob a strict talking to and small fine, and then a change of business name.

Very generous. Is that the one i see about £550? How is it over rough terrain, or soft?

@Gus Potter i was only considering building inspectors

Along with a photo looking like my mouth these days.. @Beau I'm impressed how cleanly that came out. Was it slow and painstaking? My concern would be that this is fine for a concrete slab. But in beam and block you could hit a block, which might fracture with a bolt into it, or hit a beam, which is very hard and has tendons in it, which on wouldn't want to cut. But for a stair with only downward leading, you could simply rest on the base with no fixing.

Me please, I said it too. I'm afraid most of us write something casually sometimes: I know I have annoyed without any such intention. Its the nature of the Hub.. we are not writing word perfect theses.

It will be fiddly. I think you need to cut out a square of the screed, without touching the pipes. Then cut down through the pir to expose the structure. Then you will see whether you are on a block or beam. Fro there it is simple to form a concrete plinth up to floor level. The size of the plinth will depend on the stair load and floor capacity, which your SE must advise. OR a large plate that can bear directly on the screed. Again requiring a calculation. That may be ugly or "honest" depending on point of view.

Look in a tiling warehouse and there is a corner dedicated to many options. The upmarket supplier we chose, said we needed it. Contractors suck through their teeth and tell you it's a risk. It's a big market.

He is supplying and including the adhesive and grout. I'm pleased about that because the best tilers in the past have also insisted on this. I once helped one by mixing up the packs, fetching and rotating for him when the pattern was complex. He used very quick setting compound which would have scared me... holding and adjusting a tile with one hand while preparing the next. No spacers or packing. The tile suppliers all seem to want to sell adhesive... but how many tilers are happy with that?

I never came across the slightest hint of corruption. But maybe I don't spot any hints, not thinking that way myself. (I'm forever seeing social media comments blaming everything on 'brown envelopes", presumably from people who would if they could.) However, I have come across ignorance and misplaced self- importance esp in LA inspectors.* It surprises me when I occasionally see on here that a BCO has given a self- builder advice, as they do spot checks, not thorough inspections. My guess re the now required registration is that some authorities or businesses were delegating to juniors or other unqualified staff, so that had to stop. If there was any criticism in Grenfell et al, then I've missed it. * one such young LA chap told me he wasn't accepting block paving in an industrial yard. I asked him why and he blustered some nonsense. So I told him I'd get an Engineer's letter to him. He responded that I needn't bother as they'll write anything they are asked for. I did a how dare you rant, but wished I could have got him sacked. Readers , I was that Engineer but was probably dressed other than he expected. So yes, there need to be standards for a BCO, and I hope they have risen.

Update. I have found no evidence that a decoupling mat provides benefit on a well constructed concrete or screeded floor. Our screed has one tiny visible crack and of course it will stop moving. That on an area of over 300m2. All rooms were already formed in stud, and had foam perimeters so the screed is not stuck ro walls. Had a tiler in to look. He has agreed to quote without a decoupling mat, and will include a flexible adhesive. He has never seen a case of a cracked tiled floor due to absence of mat. Moral I think is: Decoupling mats are for poor quality newbuilds, or a rushed programme or 'peace of mind'. It makes money for the seller and tiler. Btw the tiler also says the dips and ridges that look rough to me are just normal, and part of his job to lose by double buttering. Ie no latex levelling. A good day so far.... now let's see his quote.

Could you explain please, or perhaps its your circumstances? I'm no expert in PH, but surely a big window facing south is going to blow the principles re solar gain?

Seems to be a "Who to complain to" list. Only Architects from the construction industry. How odd. If you work with fluorine gas there seem to be multiple regulating bodies.

It's a strange situation. Architects and others on here may correct me. I'm a Chartered Civil Engineer. If I do a job wrong the consequences could be catastrophic... think building or dam collapsing. So one has to be qualified to be insured. But not registered by law. Meanwhile the term Civil Engineer is used by many a groundworker. Some are good of course. They could not say Architect though or would be in trouble. A Chartered Surveyor who helped our business in claims said only 3 professions were required by their charters to do what was 'right' for society* even if it meant going against their employer's instruction. Medical Doctor, Nurse, Civil Engineer. I've a feeling he said that Surgeons and Structural Engineers didn't have such a requirement either, and certainly not Lawyers, Surveyors, Architects. I've just paid my annual fees so can maybe find what I've signed for. I welcome correction.

My take is rather different. What do you havd and need by way of design knowledge, site control and construction skills? The bco is not your designer or clerk of works. So if you are highly knowledgeable or you have a project manager or main contractor who is, then you have the confidence to proceed and get boxes ticked as you go. The bco will check things that worry them, or that they happen to notice, then sign it off. Either LA or private will suffice. My own preference is private because they have been, in my experience, happy to be team players, whereas LA have wanted to score points.... and hated any answering back. Eg. They ask for the trench to go deeper, and I ask why. They don't know but always say that. But if you are not that experienced, and are sticking to tried and tested construction, then I would say use the LA. Also I'd say to use the full plans process where they agree the design before you start (compulsory in Scotland. )

Gold star. Together we can reduce flooding and fill the aquifer, with a bit of help to nature along the way.

So you are right to part. But there are lots more out there and can be inspirational, and some are good technically which can avoid problems. Up to you of course but that last 5% can be very expensive. Do you want the 'badge' or simply to have an efficient home? Some of the issues are a matter of opinion anyway. But I look forward to your input.

To a soakaway is more sustainable, and perhaps better for your garden, if it's possible.

Have you rainwater filling it? What happens if it overfills in winter?

Understood. And you've got the gas pipe there. If that was me I'd just ensure that you can change over in the future without too much disruption.

Yes, I think the current rule of thumb is to keep gas or oil if already in place but use ashp if all new. That may change according to what happens re the Iran situation. But putting in a gas pipe just in case makes some sense. Have you laid the yellow warning tape above it in the trench? If in doubt, bring it through a 110mm pipe bend and close both off with plastic and sticky tape.

Sorry about the nonsense speak in my first para above. I don't even know how to get that px character. I'm guessing this all happened in my back pocket. Ie I didn't edit and post consciously. What does it even mean? Ignore first paragraph.