saveasteading

What is the stone construction? Dressed or rubble? Granite/sandstone etc?

Thanks @dwtowner. So you really want one. So ignore my sustainability debunking opinion but do take on board my practical points. You've told the planners you are doing it so you must do it , or ask for permission without due to new information received. I seldom disagree with @Gus Potter. But I hate internal gutters as they are very risky unless you maintain very, very regularly. And do get the roof designed for the very heavy load. 6x2s will become 8x2s or v close centres. And have a ladder fixing point as you will be up there rather a lot. Keep us informed of progress on gutter design (have an overflow as well as the dp outlet) membrane choice etc.

Using timber. First build your cupboard. It will stand on its own without fixing to the slope. Then fixtothat o the slope any way you choose. Angles? Or just long screws into plugs. Continue that top plate all round the wall. Fix ceiling battens. Add noggings or dwangs (by geographic location) to stiffen the other way and for ceiling board fixings. Will the domestic sounds from the pipes be an issue? Yes? Sound proof. No? Leave the ceiling off for the 'honesty of the space'.

You'll walk past it without a glance after a while.

At the time I was doing it, that was not the case. The roots were, I think, the issue. Re credits, how true and what a con./ colour. How do they measure 'unproductive'. I'm aware of one such farm, where they produced sheep and hay. Now being planted with trees and meadows. Surrounding farms are identical to my eyes. It's a business. I feel it's misguided but haven't studied the subject. But preferable to green roofs which would better have solar panels on them and lagoons and ponds below.

New to me, thanks. The new "snibbo" from reading the blurb. Will it work on all brands and sealants?

The problem with that, unless products have improved since I did one, was that UV resistance and root resistance were not available in the same product. It's noticeable that green roofs no longer seem to be promoted at construction industry exhibitions. I think they were targeted at architects, "sustainability consultants", and planners and had their few years of use. They were top of the planners' hierarchy of rainfall solutions: they couldn't explain who decided that. I pointed out, and presumably others did too, that ponds would run dry and newts would die. Better wildlife ponds, meadows and rainwater harvesters. @dwtowner I know this sounds a bit of a downer, but if you would respond with your aims we can try to be more constructive. It's just that I know the sheer cost of these in construction and msintrnance ( many times more than the sellers say) and my priority is always keeping the weather out, as that is what a building is for.

That would be rather complex. You've got me thinking: I think I'd want some guaranteed water path beneath, eg perforated pipe and gravel, but then it would probably silt up and need cleaning... so just assume the rain is not being absorbed and runs off as in a normal flat roof. @JohnMo rightly says to avoid a slope towards the house, and the channel. if you do nothing else, take that advice and slope it away. what happens if an external gutter is blocked? It overflows to ground. If it leaks? It drips on the ground. With a channel that is a risk. When I have been made, as a contractor, to use a channel I've added overflows /weirs at my own cost.

You are looking at a tiny area so it is just a trowel job. Use a plasterer's float to smooth it. After an hour or so you can give it another smooth over. If there are ripples then you can rub them off later. Or as above, leave it low then use self levelling.

Firstly let me say that I don't favour green roofs at all. Had to build one once, but otherwise have always argued successfully with the planners against them. ( ie that there were better sustainable solutions.) However, let's assume you are determined. What slope are you using? It's a very heavy thing. Make sure your roof is designed for it. Wet substrate, plants, people on it, snow. Ice. In extreme weather there is no capacity to absorb rain and it will pour off, or through, your roof. So I say, have a significant slope to one side and fit a normal external gutter. Your little downpipes should also connect by a pipe just above the roof and get the water off there. I presume you have a spec for the roof waterproofing. Remember that it has to be special to withstand roots but also resist sunlight at any exposed spots. Also remember that you will need safe access for weeding without risk, replacing dead plants, removing litter and dead birds etc. I'd be interested to hear why you favour it. If it is for climate change resistance then ok but do add a water barrel which will have more immediate benefit.

You're right, my apologies. There should be though, and there certainly are on main sewers and i would apply it for bigger buildings. I guess it doesn't matter much to society. I wonder why they dropped the regulation. Let's just say, it's a good idea to use a steady gradient so that it all flows nicely.

You should work it out before going any further. There are maximum as well as minimum falls. And to get a depth that satisfies the regulations but minimises excavation.

@BenGillyHills Have you calculated the falls?

I have a jetter but would choose to rod it first. That way I would feel where the problem was and note for a remedy or the future. Also it won't burst any poor joints or old pipes. So the regs are sensible I think.

You don't. So a chamber just before it is a good thing. In fact it's likely a standard detail for the STP.. I haven't checked.

It's what we did. The windows are in the stone which is 600mm thick. The timber internal work is for internal finishes, dpm, insulation: not primary structure. Look back and I may have put some discussions up. You should either use an utterly expert (in these) builder, or get reading. So you've done the right thing starting here. We had to do masses of research... some of it is published, some you learn. What stage are you at? What part of the country?

I suspect the collapsed area is loose fill from previous works. The virgin ground underneath will be strong and support the foundations. Just ensure that all the loose stuff is removed. If you phone the bco and ask for permission to pour , I reckon they will be sympathetic. An option is to only pour the bit you are worried about And/or pour part depth. As to the loose ground supporting your floor slab, we can look into that later. Either replace the loose area or support the slab on the footings. 3m span is easy. The absence of roots should not annoy you. The design is for the tree when mature, and it may have a way to grow yet. It isn't an optional requirement anyway.

The bco prob hasn't had to deal with blocked drains. Multiple bends coupled with shallow or steep falls, and stuff gets left behind.

But in reality, we know a plumber will generally notch a hole in a joist rather than ask. So it's good to hear that some know the principles.

Do you have a drawing showing depths and gradients? I'm not following the problem atm.

Thanks for the info. It's all a bit odd, reinventing the wheel, and I don't want to get involved. My principle still applies. Keep it simple with bends outside the building. You seem to have a sympathetic bco so keep asking them

And were you expected to resolve this and make the holes? For my knowledge bank... do sparkies get taught rules of thumb about where holes should go? I know most plumbers don't, or don't care, but it's obv trickier with pipes.

Take out sone insulation so that the screed doesn't break up again. The heat loss difference will be minimal. You could add some reinforcement. Either wire, or fibres.

Would you annoyed purchasers advise never, or be very careful. My hunch, being in the industry, is that this would only be a good idea with a proven design, and a fixed price. Ie they have ironed out any snags and are confident enough to quote a fixed price. Also it's for 'standard' houses using timber in its comfort zone. Ie no big rooms and no steel. I'd still build it on site as a non- kit, but I can see the attraction to a one-off self builder. Price? Add 40%??? BTW. You will NEVER see these companies at construction industry events. Timber frame yes, but sips kits no. They are only for one-off clients. Feel free to say I'm wrong. It has been known. I would use timber frame kits again. I wonder where the difficulty lies between effective timber frame supply, and these issues as described. Over-ambition perhaps.

Excuse that I haven't read all the above. But I don't like most of what I see. Get drains outside of the building by a short route. Avoid bends and junctions under the floor. Why can't you take them out of the right side? Is the bco OK with footings 420mm deep? Is there to be stone under the slab? 2 layers of dpm should be unnecessary.