saveasteading

They are tension rods preventing out-thrust. Timber beams will have the strength but will likely not be tied to the walls sufficiently. That has been done very nicely as a design feature. I like that we can see the elements of structure.

I can see some courses that could be used. eg at your picture 1, it would be pointless using the course just above the hand as you will need to get past a couple of big stones to have effect. But these rods bend. Alternatively you could use reinforcing bars of lower diameter and put into more courses. Your inner skin is probably about 200mm thick. You should try to get the rod close to the middle of this. If there is an area where the rods can't be placed, then that is where big plates become the solution, bolted into the structure and possibly to the return wall. But get on the phone and speak to local SEs to find expertise. FYI we Civil and Structural Engineers have strict codes of practice and don't just take on any job for the money. We must have expertise. In practice I've found that individuals think that way too: its not just words. AND a lot of this is available in texts. Another option is to speak directly to expert stonemasons who will have done this many times. Their expertise is the stone, not foundations and roof forces, but maybe they can recommend an SE.

I vaguely remember the screw being set into linseed putty which did the load spreading job.

Doesn't sound that way: that all seems helpful.

The SE is right not to dabble in something that would need a lot of research. Do you live in an area with lots of these construction? Phone around. An SE with rhe experience will have standard solutions. No resin. Simply friction. Rake out a bed. Position the bar with lime mortar keeping it in place. We didn't have any tying or tightening like your blue annotations. But you do also need to know what caused the lean outwards. Ground failure or the roof. And to restrain it from further movement.

Not taken to show the bars but their positions are visible on both walls. If I recall, these are everyday , threaded rods, squeezed into exposed beds.

OK. Done that. The cracks are big enough that you should tie the areas together. it will be a heavy galvanised plate, probably bigger than the ones at the builders' merchants. Your SE should advise. That will have to be fixed well away from the gap. And/or bars. into the coursing. I may be able to find a photo of this in use. It's a big gap so that has moved a lot and is out of balance. But this type of wall can accommodate movement by self adjusting to some extent (there isn't an English word for shoogling). I'm assuming this is approx 600 thick, with dressed stone outside, big stones inside and a core of rubble and lime mortar A wall of that constructions should not be plastered (the 50 year old stuff may be ok as not especially hard) but you need to fill the gap in dry stone walling fashion. ie with as many and as large stones as will fit, and using lime not cement. Have a read up on how to do it the traditional (and still best) way. It sounds as if it stopped moving some time ago, but I'd want to know what caused the movement. Water causing sopping ground is the usual cause. SE is right. it may make no difference. From doing the extension you will know the depth of the existing wall and the bottom detail if there is any; also the nature of the ground.. can you advise?

But it easily could with a heavy, out of balance thud. The proper fixings aren't expensive at all, allow you to tighten it fully and I'd think add some hygiene advantage too. That inner washer will expand to bear evenly on the porcelain and spread load, then the cap is tidy and will clean.

Is this going to be inspected? If not then don't worry. Fire does not rage through such a hole unless there is a serious source of flame and fuel. If it is, then wait for the bco to point it out. It's unlikely they will. If anybody, including yourself, wants to seal it then intumescent mastic will do it. But so will simply filing gaps with sand and cement. For a serious solution in a dangerous situation you an get collars that will completely seal the hole, including in a collapsing duct, in case of fire. But dont worry.

There are Architects who are practical, and some purely artistic. Some do only houses and should know all the vibes about local planning expectations. Some do anything that turns up so maybe aren't so specialist. Planning Consultants are vital when pushing your luck on a marginal site. But otherwise there shouldn't be a need. Do you think there is a poor chance of approval? They certainly aren't who you go to re cost guidance. If an Architect is so unsure of cost levels, then I don't know where you would start with them on design and budget. OTOH, better that than leading you on now and the project unviability is a surprise for later. Remember that £100 saved here and there at first stages could cost you tens of thousands later.

Steamy is volunteering. 3/4 acre !! I suggest find an agricultural contractor who can mow it really hard. and repeat. for a meadow you need to remove all that scrub to stop it being nutrient to grasses.`Orchard and meadow is my plan. and I rather like the look and practicality of prairie planting:

Recommendations for the silicone sealer I should have to hand by the dozen? And the current iteration of Snibbo ? Being more specific: I need to change the failed mastic to a shower tray. Something that stays white, doesn't get mouldy and stays sealed. If it can be easy to handle for this amateur then that's a big plus.

Agreed. But it does show up some 'never agains', and 'what I'd do different another time'. There is a lot to be said for first time self builders using a kit. It removes many interfaces,that are most likely to go wrong and reduces teams required. You reduce risk. BUT try to use proven models in shape and style or you lose some of the advantage. Also if really depends on what you want. eg some systems don't suit big open spaces. Few of these kit suppliers target the construction industry. Why not? Because the experts don't need the ease of the system and the cost attached. Eg look at new housing estates.. see any eps systems? So I'm not against but do look at options. Also, the people you meet at self build exhibitions are selling. Of course they don't tell you there are options.

They are not expensive to hire. We once put in about 150m of duct across a field and I think it only took a day. I wasn't there that day so haven't seen it done, but our op, who was used to driving a digger, said it was easy.

Have you considered a plough type cable/ pipe laying machine?

No. But don't reinvent the wheel. Fire rating requirements are published, as are material performances. Eg sometimes 2 layers of grey is enough. People often use the pink board unnecessarily. Means of escape and detectors too. The bco will want a proposal and it's in your interest to get it agreed ASAP.

Soaking would dissolve the bitumen content and lose the stickiness. I couldn't vouch for a coating of solvent between the old and the new but it might work.. it's your own surface so you can try.

Properly laid Type1 is basically returned to nearly solid stone density, just not glued together. Good planings are the same but do stick together. Yes clean out the hole to see stone. It might be worth painting it with pitch or bitumen to get some bond.

Berwick Bank wind farm in the outer Firth of Forth with up to 307 turbines generating enough electricity to power up to six million homes. So that supplies all Scotlands needs when the wind is blowing. Meters on the cables to England and Scandinavia and the Holyrood budget will benefit hugely.

It's normally better to buy a finished house where you miss out the years of problems and the risks. Value wise, turnkey will be expensive too, and seldom any saving compared to buying a finished property to move into and enjoy. Self build and diy may reduce the cost but increase the risk.

We had wasps somehow getting through a 2mm local gap between overlapping weatherboards. They then chewed the stud behind to make paper for a nest. So mesh needs to be very small. Someone will have studied this I hope. Overlapping messages. That mesh looks fine.

Steel will be the answer. It covers big spaces economically. My rule of thumb is that adding an internal column under a portal frame will reduce that frame by 1/3 in tonnes and cost. What width of building do you intend? You don't want a column in the middle of your space I'm sure, so make this a fundamental requirement, and accept the cost. OK, so they should be able to look after you, and will be charging. So anything we say on here might concern them as distrust. Have you given them a budget? Would any of them know how to achieve it?

It doesn't have to be fancy special stuff. It is stopping fire from spreading through a cavity so even wood will usually be suitable.

a service void is nice to have but I'd prioritise the headroom. Anyway, that 830mm vertical bit could be widened to be a SV without affecting headroom.

I've done a few of these, design and construction, including a church, with the starting point being 'someone says you will be able to half the price we've had from tenders'.ie it's not a cathedral and so funds are tight. It is complex, based on the use, or variable uses, of the facility, and also the size. Ventilation can be a huge issue as is means of escape , if the numbers are large. Even which inclination of church and their procedures can make a difference to performance and choices. But to start with I don't know what you mean by a Composite deck screed. Does that mean your own steering group, or are there professionals advising?