saveasteading

A professionally designed wall would have drainage behind it including at the base, so that water never builds up. Yours seems to be reasonably stable considering, so applying the various methods above is likely to suffice

The 'Home Counties'. Bedfordshire, Oxfordshire etc. Now that HS2 isn't tunneling under to ease the pain of the locals in the only part of the UK where here are such considerations, , that would be an ideal place for wind turbines. I'm sure the locals won't object if it is for the general good. If they took extras it would feed London where there is obviously a need. Made at Ardersier using wind power, and shipped down. An alternative of course would be a tariff for power heading across the border... it is industry after all.

That's amusing but unfair. A skilled professional often makes it look simple.

@markcand I posted much the same same simultaneously.

If water gushes out you are relieving the pressure. The problem you will have is a temporary flow of water which should later slow. If it dribbles out ditto, but then we know the issue is less severe. Is the wall poured concrete or block? That is something you'll find soon enough in trying to drill. You appear to have a dam rather than a retaining wall. If it is properly designed in concrete then I would have expected a drainage system. So it's more likely a bit diy. If it is blockwork then any builder can drill holes. If it is concrete then they can hire a core drill. There are other Engineers on here so second opinions will be welcome, including whether you should have a consulting Civil or Stuctural Engineer look into it.

So was the question just out of interest? You haven't any problems?

As @ProDaveI'd guess these are cast concrete in stone effect. And that your chance of rebuilding 'as was' is tiny because there will be some damage. Even if new or reclaimed were available as substitutes then they would not match as batching or age will make them different colours or textures. So unless these are inherent to the house design, or you love them, you will need a much greater area replaced in new masonry. The repaired house must look as if it was original or the value will plummet. You may have to be very firm on this because insurance companies like collecting, not paying. The Loss Adjuster for your own insurer is likely to be helpful and professional on your behalf, especially as the other party will be paying. You need to see a formal proposal and they should have it approved by an independent professional and by building control. You'll get more help on here I'm sure. It is best to remain anonymous so don't post pictures of the whole house, but anything from outside showing the context (adjacent areas of wall) would help. Meanwhile, only if you want to answer, are you still living there or been moved out for safety and comfort?

I no longer buy Aldi or Lidl electric tools. They are low end diy and won't last. For a big, heavy job use only big names and not the entry ranges either. for diy and odd jobs, then the middle, established brands will suffice. I like all my Einhells but would be no good for a professional joiner, painter, gardener, whatever. If you don't mind coarseness then SF/TS/ B&Q/Wickes will be coarse and noisy but do it and keep doing it. My Worx circular saw has been a disappointment too. And I only buy branded accessories now, eg fixings and drill bits.

It appears to have horizontal beds and vertical joints similar to block size. could be plank faces I suppose, and the holes might be formwork tie holes rather than drainage. But that is heavy Engineering capital E. which is expensive and therefore less likely. @slystallone what is the purpose of the wall? eg supporting a cutout in a hillside between your land and a neighbour. do any other properties have similar? Is the wall vertical?

What do you mean by 'sort'? You can patch them in render or whatever is already on the wall, and/or paint the whole wall etc for appearance. But the vertical crack is probably structural, so releasing water pressure is the priority. Drill a few holes asap. The worst point for stress is about 1/3 up, but you can drill anywhere below that for immediate benefit. If you can drill even one hole, even only 12mm diameter or so, we will learn if the wall is solid, the thickness, whether water rushes out etc

when you remove a tree the demand for water is removed and clay may expand again. so bear that in mind. it is going to move again.

Anything that is 'not quite right' can be surprisingly expensive to adapt or to remedy. It is often easier and cheaper to remove an extension and start again, than to adapt an adaptation. the disruption in removing the yellow wall would be significant.

That is a blockwork wall with render so its surprising it is resisting the water so well. I'd suggest drilling new holes that are the perfect size to accept a standard plastic pipe hammered through to the other side. 40mm dia or so? then you might need to seal any gap so that the water uses the pipe. perhaps at 1m or or 1.5m or so centres and 300mm ish off the ground. If the new pipes extend about 150mm they will spout or dribble clear of the wall. so if the wall is 150mm thick use 300mm lengths of pipe. Through the blocks would be the tidiest job as drilling though the beds might open up more cracks. This will also relieve lots of pressure and the wall is likelier to stay put. where the water goes next is up to you.

To my surprise that seems to be the case. Why? I can only assume that cut pipes need joining fittings anyway so it becomes a standard detail.

They can object, but must give reasons that link to planning policy. They don't get a vote or veto.

As above. It will dry. Steel stops rusting when it is dry. Timber. Will dry. Just check fir severe warping. Insulation. Cavity stuff should dry out. Once you get a roof on you'll be surprised how quickly it all dries. Lots of airflow is much more efficient than machines.

Our original plan was to install a duct and swa and it could later be replaced by a bigger, permanent cable. But reality got in the way. Excavator on site for something else took ages and was gone. Scaffold went up over the trench line, and the filthy weather. Too much last minute thinking. The blue cable would not be trailing as I will have it in the air at 2m or more, with a central post if necessary. So it's safe from tripping. And it will be in an area inaccessible to plant. I might hang red and white tape round it. Any other pragmatic solutions are welcome. I can't see why we can't have 3 or 4 yellow cables from 13A sockets. Not ideal obv but if it works? In reality they have lights, a very powerful chop saw, a drill, and lots of battery tools. So one cable for saw, one for lights and one for other stuff? 13A mains socket through a transformer then 30m of 110V cable. How do we know what we can drive off that? OR HO7RN-F Ive looked this up. 25m black cable with blue sockets costs £115 so sounds easy. Therefore i must be missing an important "but". Is 16A enough? If I got 32A it apparently has a different plug.. is that an issue? Thinks.... the chop saw should be near the power source.. it isn't but easily could be. Such an obvious thing!

How uneven? 40mm screed should be the minimum and some slab layers are hopeless at levels..

Thanks all. This is all very helpful. I did some electrical engineering at school, just as an extra subject. My teacher couldn't believe how bad I was at it when i was good with other sorts of engineering. so thanks for the patience. We are supervising so can ensure that a reel is unwound. The reel, has the advantage of easy relocation, either out of the way, or to suit room arrangements as they get built. We can brief the workers too and label the ends with instructions. The point about checking the spec is good, as some give very few details. I can see that a non-reel somehow seems more credible. and could be fastened to a wall: but I'm amazed that I haven't found any ready-made. On this basis we should locate the outlet fairly centrally, then an adjacent transformer and no other sockets. shortest distances for 110 cables from there. this is £3/m cur to any length, so a reel of 25m at either £50 or £30 seems surprising. we have plenty of transformers, I think through often needing them in a hurry then back to store after use. @ProDave what type of plugs would be best for your way? Or domestic one ended , round the other? CEE seems to be the term, and they look somehow more credible to the amateur (which our demanding, but seemingly corect) joiners are in this regard. are they straightforward to connect. I've done armoured and surely anything is easy compared to that? what does one do with the multiple L and N cables? Just join them in as if it was a 3 core cable? Id like to buy the cable in blue as it is clear what it is and easier to see, but can't find any. can I just use 2 of this and join them? OR How about this for a quick fix. I buy 2 of the reels shown above. Thence they have lots of capacity and can be set in different spots. or 3, with one extending off the other to the other end of the building? Call 'silly' if it is so!

is it as simple as this, or 2 of these\? https://www.screwfix.com/p/masterplug-ldct2513bq-4-xd-13a-4-gang-25m-cable-reel-240v/54615

Thanks. I didn't know HD 240 existed. I now see them advertised at all sorts of amperages if that's a word. should I be looking for one that will reach the middle of the building? what amps might be a sensible spec? I see so far 13, 16 and 32A. will these be 3 pin or the round socket sort? in the building what will we have? a single 110V transformer or a multi socket one, or as many singles as are wanted? is blue a preferred colour to indicate what the cable is? i see them in blue or black and even orange. if i am understanding. In either the garage or canteen we plug a 240V domestic type plug into a normal socket. perhaps with a conveter from domestic plug to round. We then take that cable to the barn, perhaps well above ground to avoid accidents. Blue or orange would be safer than black. in the barn it is dry now, or soon will be, so we simply have a 240V socket into which we plug a transformer. thereafter the guys just plug in what they want. Perhaps @markc 's idea too. so the 240V for most purposes but retain the trailing separate 110V to a few lights, in case of a local trip.

That's the issue then. what would be worst case if there was damage at that location? so you get it sorted in that unlikely evet. what could cause damage there? is there heavy traffic? I'd accept the exclusion and if by some tiny chance anyone has a problem in 5 years then you do the concrete thing. same cost much delayed.

Agreed you stop those leaks as a priority. But as it is a warm roof and the void doesn't need airflow, is it worth filling the whole void with fibreglass? any residual drauchs will be stopped and there will be masses of insulation.It will be messy and a rebuild of the ceiling but better than just another cover of insulated plasterboard. The insulation can be loft roll , so not expensive.

Some electric supply advice required please. We have a garage building with our permanent electrical supply already installed and complete. This will later have an armoured cable from it to the barn conversion which is 15m away. We have normal sockets in the garage from which we run 240V machinery adjacent or of course through a 110V transformer. We also have a commercial (rented) site canteen (15m from garage and 10m from barn.) This is supplied by an armoured cable. From this they are taking a 110V supply into the main building using a 220V socket, a transformer then 10m looping cable to the building and up to 20m cables therein. This has been working successfully in operating fairly substantial electric saws etc. we are doing lots of cutting of 6 x 2. However we now have to run a lot of lighting as well. Our workers are saying that there isn't enough power for both. They are asking us to take in a temporary 240V supply. Of course this is another significant cost, involving trenching or some overhead draping of an armoured cable, and an electrician yet again. Easy to ask for but we have to watch costs and I don't like the expectation that they get whatever they want. Is there any technical reason why we can't simply use an additional 110V cable from the canteen? or 2 or any number? Alternatively we could take the 110V from the garage direct to the main building. It seems obvious to me but perhaps there is something I don't understand. AND if it is simply a matter of more yellow cables, then I have to explain subtly / technically why it is not cheapskate and is perfectly sound. They can be sensitive flowers about not getting whatever they ask for. If it helps I can do a sketch.

This batman is marketing to your architect, so the comments are unofficial and without merit. The Architect should have realised this. I've a lot of time for good and pragmatic specialists but am very suspicious always. The number of times I have been required at planning to do an archaeological or nature or landscaping report and works as a requirement by the same party who would make money from it. They often back down when challenged on the conflict of interest and shown why their requirement is disproportionate or plain wrong.