saveasteading

Resilient bar has always worked well in practice. If any noise gets through it will be flanking sound, coming between the wall and ceiling interfaces, so follow details.

I'd be ok with that. Because there could be voids I agree with 75mm capping but not all sand. Thick sand ruts and gets footprints, and so concrete can dip into it and the slip property is lost. I'd prefer 50 or 60mm of type 1 or 2, then the rest in sand.

As nick says. But if the spec says 1 screw then that is what you should do but only with very good screws with enough thread. Why? The rb works by minimising direct contact. What there is, is offset by that loose-hanging Z of the bar. So when it vibrates it is a wibbly wobbly reaction rather than direct and in phase.

I will be perfectly happy to miss the egg box at about £6/m2 and labour. Thinks. My instinct is that the screed won't adhere to the woodchip floor properly, whereas the egg boxes are screwed or nailed down. Will the wet screed interact messily with the woodchip? Will ufh clips fix neatly and securely to the floor? Chipboard may flex. Opp argument Screed sticks to anything. It will be set in 3 hours and there is very little free water. Clips.. we can test that. Flex. But it won't unless we drop the piano. Cheaper, quicker.

You could Poss use skinny ply to the whole landing. Filler under the worst of it. Then smooth off at the perimeter.

Not at all. We are allowed logic, hunch and gut feeling. And wondering. It stops us walking over things that look flimsy, without calculations or test certificates.

I had exactly this issue on a previous and very old house. I skimmed it level locally using latex screed. It lasted for years and may yet be there. BUT I haven't seen this product again. It came as 2 parts if I recall. There was certainly a bag of dust and there may have been some liquid additive. The finished product was very flexible, almost like a soft shoe sole, (ie latex) and that will be why it stayed in place. I'm hoping someone else might know what it was. 'Latex' screeds now all seem to set hard and brittle. It was almost like a layer of bostik. Thought. What about wood glue? The kind you buy in a tin.... evostik?

Imagine how much character some of us must have.

Absolutely. This is little understood. In fact there used to be false, or musleadingly vague, assertions about the effect of shiny faces on plasterboard, pir, and that loft wrap multilayer stuff I won't name. These have now been dropped but the rumour lives on.* It is is still implied that the aluminium layer within an underfloor heating pipe is doing this, but it isn't. I've burned the plastic off an offcut and found the inner pipe is surprisingly robust, ie not like kitchen wrap. I don't know what it is for.. it helps it hold a shape but also makes it vulnerable to kinking. Back to the question... some of these crates do have pockets of air but I doubt there is much/any benefit in foil. It's not as if the heat is being lost outdoors or to a neighbour..... it would only heat the ceiling void at worst, and only once. * @Mulberry View do you mind sharing where you heard of this supposed benefit? ** I once went to a presentation by superfoil, arranged by the local bco. (It was a short walk and free buffet). I was itching for the pitch on reflective aluminium but he didn't mention it, just another new product which I haven't seen since. Btw they measured insulation in their own way. I'm not saying it didn't work, but bubblewrap is cheaper.

Indeed. There are lots of versions with more of less plastic/voids. We have decuded not to put acoustic underlay because our ceilings will do that work, but it's a nice idea. The screed provides density for heat absorption and spread, and also against footfall noise. And the screed is ready for the finish, most of which will be tiles. We are not insulating under it as heat rises, and any going downwards will meet what is coming up through a dense ceiling/floor. The downside is that any area without heating (passageways, wardrobes) still needs the same thickness.

I'm going to have to think about that! The hot half expands so much that it is higher?

Excuse me grinning at this. Crush and run sounds like the worst of recycled aggregate. From a quick Google I see,though, that it is a fairly commonly used term, presumably from mishearing and repetition. I just had never heard it said this way. The tech term is crusher run. I have always understood it to mean "as it comes" . Thus it is great for haul roads and heavy duty parking, but not for precision as there isn't a graded mix. 75mm crusher run will be everything that went through a 75mm grille. That would feasibly include long lumps, and will vary according to the original material. So @mjc55 you were lucky or the guy had seen it.

That's my point. New panels may be different shades.

It's not. If nothing else I'm learning that lots of intelligent people listen to and are swayed by the implistic publicity that we can drill and solve everything.

As discussed elsewhere, I have little respect for decoupling mats, . We are going for upstairs being normal chipboard, then egg box overlay with snap-in ufh pipes, then screed. Tiles on top. If it was only for a small area of bathrooms I'd be thinking of electric mats with timers.

If the missing panels are coloured ones, beware of a colour match risk. Tell them the coloured panels must all be from the same production run, or get a written guarantee.

Crushed is fine if clean but there is a middle ground if a supplier will sell it graded a type 1. BUT 30m2 x say 0.2 is 6m3. X 2.4t/m3 is 14.4tonnes. Think of it another way. Does this look big enough for 3 lorry loads, or more like one?

I don't think it is banned so much as it is no longer within the energy strategy. And with refineries bring closed and dismantled... by the oil companies... it seems terminal.

I've just looked at a cascading supplier and see that they have some with incredibly thin steel. So do check tge options for their properties. You will get snow build-up/ drifting with that abutment of almost flat roof and gable wall. So don't under-do the strength of battens. Cheaper to have extra wood than pay for a design. Are you having a gutter or letting rain run off?.

OK that's helpful. You will presumably flash the uphill end, so that still needs sealing or the rain will run back inside. The cut end peel problem applied at the factory cut, and they suggested a varnish that sealed it. You can see the issue on some old sheds. 6m is generally easy to source but you might not have much choice of stock material from a local supplier.

Why not go steeper? It increases ridge height and gable areas. Wind loads usually increase. So cost and appearance. Check out the purlin centres for whatever cladding you favour. Plus the available profile fillers for the ridge. High quality mastic tapes (not subject to uv) at all joints. Stainless screws with a washer that winds down the thread. No leaks. Coatings are improving, but Plastisol may still be available in the old spec, where there is 'cut end peel'. ( the coating separates at the end, then it rusts) Ask so you can avoid it.

Do you know if they "want"? Do you know where it would be processed and into what products? It is my impression that they don't "want", and that the product would go to South America to make fertiliser. But I'm here to learn.

I put up hundreds and the favoured slope was 10%. That's about 6°. But you have to build it well especially at laps, because wind will drive it up that slope. Good screws too. In theory it can go flatter than that, but it gets riskier esp with thin cladding that can bow. Your average roofing supplier or contractor prefers steeper as the build quality and risk reduce.

22mm is a lot. He hasn't a clue other than brick, next brick. Probably has never had to set up the coursings/ manage. I've known them like this. Doors missed out (I'll cut that out later). Got no bricks. When did you realise it was getting low? Got no bricks. Ive seen worse if it's any consolation. The brick course spiralled and was up to window level when noticed. Fortunately I was only engaged to find why it wasn't working. Does it otherwise look OK? 22mm now and then what? He gets it back over a few courses or it gets worse. Will he remember windows and get them right. When you reach eaves the roof and gutter will be a challenge to an innocent joiner. you need a proper talk, sat down to keep his attention. If you think he is worth the risk then I think I might be tempted to compromise if there really are few options. Tell him to win back that 22mm * by removing and replacing the last course. 11mm correction then again above dpc. Ask him how he is going to prevent this happening again. And daily checks by you. * someone on BH who can lay bricks will know better than I.

I like the practical suggestion of one 'escape room'. That becomes a £1k per dwelling issue, and perhaps a balcony solar panel linked to it. Then can also be reversed for winter heat.