saveasteading

Maybe too late? I'd make use of the access and have a very close look at the flashings and pointing. Water can get through miniscule gaps especially in windy conditions.

I believe that. There are 5 timber mills within 20 minutes of our project, but they don't produce c24. The local timber is very fast growing and isn't used for structural timber. I desiged the timber frame and tried c16 assuming better cost. But it wasn't cheap enough compared to imported c24. So we bought lots of c24 from a major timber supplier. Very good quality in the lack of knots and shakes, but quite wide grained and we don't know the source. I expect in Finland, Estonia or Canada or wherever, they don't stamp the timber, so each end vendor can do as they choose. Therefore i reckon you are right...if someone wants c16, then some suppliers may stamp it thus to a avoid any complaint. Meanwhile in the SE, doing a tiny , family project we have c24 that is full of knots and has lumps missing: there is no way it would all have passed a physical stress test.

I'm pretty sure that is only when upright. I wouldnt be happy with these and would fill the voids with drypack concrete, though that completely defeats the object of saving concrete. Otherwise, it probably won't fall down, and if it did, the bales will crumple and stay standing. It's your experiment.

These are hollow blocks. I've not seen that small size recently. It saves concrete and sometimes cost, lighter to handle, and allows for the addition of reinforcement in a wall. Also quite a lot weaker so maybe not a great idea as shown here.

Hi Aaron. No need to take offence, as you know it wasn't you. Even if it was, we are all learning All on here are reading and commenting in their own time, perhaps limited time. I've made many wrong assumptions, through not reading and rereading forensically like I would if doing it professionally. Also, I'd insist on a site visit if I was. I've no more to say though as the advice seems to be good. 7 different opinions is no surprise as there may be a number of solutions, or none at all.

Can turn it on, not should turn it on. The main point was it saying that it takes longer than cemeng based screeds. im not saying it is wrong, just wanting to learn and able to give besf advice...and these screeds ive only used once. and in our place a big crack appeared after several months. I think it was missing a crack inducer, but the delay was a big surprise, so a good job it wasn't tiled. Maybe your man has a point. Make it crack if it is going to.

No. They can build enormous battery packs to store the surplus. I quoted for a couple of projects which would be sophisticated warehouses, jam-packed with redundant car batteries (ie after replacement). I was way down the supply chain and had to sign secrecy papers, and i doubt they were built...but maybe some were. I think they were to be adjacent to gas power stations to use off-peak capacity, but could better be connected to wind source. More conventionally, they can currently use surplus power to recharge reservoirs at the hydro power stations that have pump storage. On a much smaller scale, we could have smart metering in times of surplus, and we heat our floor slabs then, thus storing energy (but useful as heat only).

I doubt that most politicians, and their strategy advisors, have much idea of technical stuff, and will go blank if getting good, practical advice. Of course there is a middle way, but it is by applying common sense, not by scrapping the need for improvement. Many of us on BH could help, but they aren't asking us.

A good point. Neanderthals were intelligent apparently, but not great on airtight construction.

On 'This Farming Life', on BBC there is a couple living in their self build straw house, and now building straw glamping huts. May be of interest, but is brief between stuff about animals. episode 4.

But he says you 'should'. I googled it and this says the opposite. https://dunloptrade.com/technical-team-blog/top-tips-for-tiling-to-anhydrite-and-hemi-hydrate-screeds#:~:text=This means that a typical,days for Ordinary Portland Cement.

A bit rude. Our joiner was intelligent and polite, had been to college, and had put up many a building for timber frame contractors, but he didn't understand air-tightness and had clearly never been made to seal laps in membranes before. But I agree that contractors' s ignorance extends to criticising designs that are right and correct. scary that they are doing this for other people. They don't know how little they know. Dunning Kruger in action.

I'd only add that you need evaporation upwards from the cavity, so put the polythene over it like a tent, but with air-flow between it and the wall. block/poly/block. Perhaps drill some holes in the mortar where weep holes would be, immediately above dpc, and they can be filled again later.

Any idea why? Normal practice is to keep slabs and screeds damp as long as possible.

A well laid screed will have contraction formers at intervals, forcing shrinkage cracks at these points. This is a standard process so we would have heard if the cracks damaged ufh pipes. Our 70mm screed cracked where encouraged to, but also a random crack, surprisingly about 3 months later. It is about 1mm wide. Try stretching a piece of pipe..its strong and ..I'm sure it's designed for this.

If they happen not to be the best, or are overcharging because of their certification.

I've asked the team, and It turns out I didn't have all the info. We have split the project in 2 sections and can only get one grant, so are going for it on the bigger section, as yet not installed.

There are ways of stiffening rather than replacing joists. Doubling up, and/or fixing plywood above or below. Needs an SE, an interested one.

Only for an exchange from an existing boiler isn't it?

I'm ok with pea gravel as it will self compact into the base, whereas an angular stone will need whacking. It's only got to hold up a temporary structure, which will presumably be unoccupied in testing conditions. do you need it though? hard clay is hard clay and any settlement will presumably be even. Other than that though, its up to you, ie I won't be encouraging straw bale construction. In my opinion it is a gimmick unless you are in a dry climate. Even there, they don't appear to do anything with masses of straw bales. I've messed about with adobe, then decided not to us it even for inner garden wall features. I'd say you should regard your project as a temporary structure and don't spend much on it Good luck with it: I admire the enthusiasm and adventure. I will click 'follow though', and watch your adventure from safety. I hope experienced advice comes your way. BUT. do work out how you are going to build it, including roof, floor and openings. it's never great to just start and bodge along. In your case you need to keep rain and damp off the straw, or it will rot.

It's a very cheap hobby, practiced by many.

I hope everyone realsies that forces dont go at 45°, but it is a reasonable starting point in wondering if downward forces might cause problems. But they may be the opinions of professionals....not the same thing as we don't have all the info, are influenced by the way the question is put, and perhaps can't be bothered in thinking it right through, or its late on Friday evening.

in an over-sized pipe, the water runs slowly and over a wider area, so it isn't automatically a good thing.

The best books I know and use on general construction are very old ones. Building Construction, by McKay in 3 volumes I use them for reference on refurb work. Some procedures have changed, plastic wasn't around, but much is is the same.....dig a hole, pour concrete. They are probably available second (or n times) -hand A member of staff who had been through college swore by 'Chudley' and it is still available. Perhaps others on here have used it. I'd then suggest following all discussions on here, and delving into the interesting ones. Plus binge watch grand designs etc. just to watch construction in action, then ask remaining questions on here. The more specific the better.

spelcheque striques agen. As all loads know to disperse at exactly 45° (symbol cut and pasted from above) the wheels will be far enough not to load the wall at all, and only a problem if the car users are very heavy indeed. You can scrape a footing and build straight on to of it to hold back 450mm, for more you might want a wall with some structure, but in your circumstances i think I would simply lean it back towards the cars, or make it thick.