saveasteading

I can't remember. Direct from a supplier though, so Google it. You will need a medium duty grade. As you are on sand (presumably rain just disappears now) , you won't need any fancy drains. Much better just to let the rain dribble through, over the whole area. The gravel itself will hold the first 10mm or so of rain.

Yes but not just that. It is a precisely balanced mix of coarseness so that it is almost as dense as the original rock, once compacted. Like concrete except not bonded together. A vibrating plate will shake the fines into any gaps. If it is limestone then wetness and drying will paste it together a bit. The fines are omitted from the type 3 recipe so that water can run through and it can hold rainwater, but it is much less durable. So a decent option for a driveway, with a gravel grid on it.

I'm currently organising maintenance on grids that have been car parking for 15 years. There is quite a lot of damage to the top, say 10mm, and some areas of slight sinking. Compared to tarmac or concrete, I'm really happy with it. With regular maintenance in topping up the gravel, it would have incurred less damage. Underneath is type I but it slopes to a French drain. This photo is the worst area by far as it had most use. The gravel was larger when originally laid.

Just a few goats and they will be classed as pets, esp if of a non commercial breed. My family has got 4 hardy goats, and they keep the grass down. They are space controlled by virtual fences, and you will need that or the brambles will be a long way down in their preferred choices.

Remember that an end of life static can be cheap but transport is expensive. I rather like the idea of knocking up a 'portacabin' to live in, and an office. Put it up on plinths and insulate it well. Snowcem in green to get that utilitarian look.

This seems to be a recent fashion, promoted by developers. That could well kill the tree. The roots normally extend to or beyond the canopy. The big ones for stability and searching for water. Lots of tiny ones near the surface for water, nutrient, and air. Advice on trees and foundations shouldn't come from planners, other than 'dont harm the tree'. An arboriculturalist told me the rule of thumb is 1/4 of the roots being cut or stripped or buried will likely kill it, 1/3 almost certainly. It's also going to be less stable in gales.

Abundant. Enough for Norway, whence it comes, or for the world? As if Norway needs more income from the ground. On further thinking, it doesn't matter who uses it if there is reduced carbon released.

I feel you've had lots of good advice on this already. Are you hoping for a different answer this time? Engineering apart..bdcdusd yes if czn bd done.....have you drawn a cross section through the proposed finished building? With the trees to scale as they are now. Then draw on the trees as they will be in 50 years, 25m tall with 1m trunks, and hanging over the house.

I went to a Build-it show and it was better than I expected. But yes, the tech knowledge was very low, or perhaps deliberately withheld. You do get to poke at window and buliding cross sections though. It is much more a show for major packages than hands-on self builders. I'd go to the Swindon show if it was an hour away, but for interest, and 'just in case'.

Yes and no. Some systems make, or commission, all their components and make it all at their own factories, and deliver to site. Local fabricators buy in the parts and assemble at their own workshops. They may buy the extrusions from just one or from a choice of suppliers. The extrusions turn up in very long lengths, and are cut to size on site and assembled on benches. These fabricators can usually make up the glazing too. Ironmongery and internal parts are also from a choice of suppliers. Just like with cars there are eg bosch parts on many makes. Whatever the cost and quality, these components are all sophisticated.

Care to expand?

In your opinion is that quality difference obvious, and worth the money?

In Spain its all 20% to 25% cheaper too, and vat is the same. But you'd have to be passing through to make it worthwhile and technically pay import duty.

Installed by a plumber, sorted by me. A flush vacuum pipe popped off but could be sorted through the plate. The pan became loose. It needed scarily severe tightening of the plastic bushes that grip it to these protruding bolts. And I recall the installation being easier than the instructions imply. All good.

Don't forget its saturated weight, plus snow. Also note that the waterproofing layer has to be root resistant, and that some of these that are, are not UV resistant, so a challenge where it wraps over eaves or parapets. I don't know about grp, but have a feeling it isn't enough on its own.

TLC will supply any length cut to order. They aren't nationwide , but surely some other specialist does this too.

Didn't you say they are 7m away? Anyway I've changed my mind. The trees would overshadow the house and become misshapen. The pragmatic solution is to let the trees be, but divert rsinwater to them, and don't build here at all.

Leave the trees, get site survey, design any new foundations accordingly, probably over 2m deep.

That can't be done. The rest is logical except that would be happening anyway, and he is still the one providing free credit. Of course we expect plumbers to be very comfortably off these days. Maybe most are.

Not unlimited, as there only a few thousand new houses at any time, but there are certainly huge numbers of English emigrants to the Highlands and NE.

Politics. Please don't.

The professionals all use a hopper applicator which makes that part look relatively easy, ie as opposed to applying by trowel. Ahhh. A flat box seems to be the term. For £300 they must be quite sophisticated and worth having.

It starts at school. I've done careers days and almost everyone coming to us representing "construction" wants to be an architect. They are studying photography and media studies or some such. The careers teachers know little either. It is sortable but does anyone in a position to make the change really understand it?

That's quite a lot. For non builders, think of your nett salary having another 20% held back. I had a £2M job where we had to 'loan' the vat To the government. It was £80k ish in one quarter and that went on for a year.Then at rebate time you get a phone call questioning it.