saveasteading

That is like suspending a very heavy car `(Landrover etc) every 600mm. It is a lot of load . This is too technical and specific for me to say much on, However, without doing any analysis I would simply say that you will not be needing 24kN resistance eat 600 centres. I would go for '2' probably, but it isn't for me to say....and you will worry whenever the wind blows. especially as you say you are a perfectionist, so must make your own mind up. So you should probably ask your SE immediately while telling your joiner to pause OR use the specified fixings.

What is the rest of the structure, below and above the floor level?

Killing the woodworm is presumably easy. Is there rot? Have the floor joists been examined. Any pictures? Covering the problem with osb was an easy way out for your predecessors, and ideal for the worms.

It also needs a big hole, a concrete base, a top (biscuit) , and an access cover. And a hydyobrake. And it is heavy. £3k at a guess. The inlet will be near the top. The outlet at the bottom. Have you got the fall for it?. Meaning you think it was? It is unlikely to have been oversized. Crates de-skill the construction and are usually better value if there is a driveway anyway. We can't comment without the details and circumstances If both projects.

What have your discussions to date established or suggested? This may influence the specialism of the consultant you need. Have you tried local social media? There may be businesses who do a certain amount of pro bono work for local good causes.

That's a deal.

That's what I meant.

Then you need some ventilation. Insulate and deaughtproof first. Provide controlled ventilation after that. If you infill the gap with a window in it you are sorted. Assuming it is to be a workshop and not a living space.

So you need to protect it, whether or not the bco has thought about it. If you have had this professionally designed, speak to them. Boxed in 2 layers of ordinary plasterboard is best. Otherwise lots of intumescent paint and special top coat.

Can't If the beam failed, what else comes down? No biggy? Its often a bit more complex than that.

Ok so the roof and walls provide short term insulation against extreme hot or cold, and keeps you comfortable enougn for a workshop. Until the draught returns it towards the external temperature.

Are you fixing battens or dot and dabbing? Both will create an air gap which adds insulation. You could add a strip of eps over the prop. Battens are better and also reduce heat circulaion in the small void and aid insulation a bit more. Does the beam need fire protection? Unlikely. In the unlikely event of a 300° rise in temperature you won't be in there. There's no room above is there?

If it is an up and over spring one then there is usually a gap over the top and draughts all round. You won't need any other ventilation. Insulation will still moderate the temerature , but what about floor and roof?

No bigger than a drain entry detail into the house, where precast lintels are the norm Dewatering the ground as standard? To make clay permanently dry, so it shrinks once and stays shrunk? Hmmmmm. Most houses won't have a handy ditch, and it would be a very bad thing to send more rain quickly to drains and watercourses. I just googled heave protection drainage channel and your original post comes up number 2.....in the whole world.

How wide is the channel you are jumping over? Is there an earlier discussion about this channel? It's my subject but that is a new term and concept to me.

He means or meant to mean, an Aco drain. It is a trade name for a channel drain...a grating at ground level. Overused where the underlying problem should be sorted.

You are on the right lines. 2 front and 2 back will cause plenty of airflow. If a pair of them is within say 1.5m of the side wall I'd think that will cause enough that you don't need a side one. If these are perforated bricks, made of clay, then there is no concern about strength.

stick built on site by chippies My starting point too unless you have enormous rooms. mortgageable and lifetime mortgageable - we like to plan ahead lenders and insurers only know that wood burns and bricks don't. Yer most commercially built houses are timber. Time well spent researching but they may want drawings!

It would always look like a block wall with a face on it. Is it to look as rustic as the photo, with artificial bolt holes in it? will you leave the bolt fixings in? Do the planks need to be selected and arranged for the desired visual effect of grain and knots? will the concrete be vibrated into place as if it was a serious structure, or placed more approximately with the chance of getting 'interesting' voids and bubbles showing? Hired shutters are plain and boring. I think you need to make yours as a one use and expensive thing. I am worrying on your behalf that this is a single chance thing, and you won't know if you like it until it is stripped How do you fill right to the top? Is there a ceiling void that it can extend into? Probably. If it is linked to the structure in conventional manner instead of a block wall, then perhaps not. Mesh for anticrack will suffice. But if it is a 2 storey core to the building then yes needs an SE to look at the circumstances.

Scaffolding quotes can vary dramatically. It can depend on whether they have capacity and loads of poles in stock, or have to cross-hire more in. If one is quiet they might not even put much hire value on the poles. Do you mind rusty old stuff as long as it is legal? Make sure the scaffolding is as your contractor needs. sometimes too much is erected. other times they want the deck levels changed. the joiner might want a different arrangement to the roofer. return visits cost. Will there be any weekly hire charge? How certain is your time frame? If the scaffolder says there is a charge after, say, 12weeks, that is an easy wrangle to get 16. That said, I always under-cost scaffolding. It is a habit from the old days when towers were sufficient. Also I have noticed a move into less shouty-sweary workers. I would love to know what has changed.

I came across Octopus offering car charger fitting for fixed price. All on one page they ask if you own the house and if the charging point will be on your land and..... and nothing . The next page is contact details and " buy now". They don't ask what the house construction is, or if the ground is lawn or concrete, or if the meter is in a basement. I don't click "buy now" lightly, so perhaps the next page allows for extras to the fixed price, or exclusions. Perhaps an electrician and a labourer turn up and deal with whatever is there, and Octopus risk it as swings and roundabouts? I doubt it, as a hard yard will need expensive reinstatement. £875 sounds cheap to me if it has a 450mm deep trench. I would only want 20m of cable. But for over 30m they do a special quote. In that they ask all the sensible questions adding, whether you live in a house or a flat, and is the meter on an outside wall. Then they ask for a photo of the meter installation. Other sensible questions may follow. Does something happen at 30m of cable that costs more? Is it just marketing o page one and the extras follow? I am only throwing this in , on the off-chance that someone has been through this. If it is really £875 then I'm having it.

Everybody here is correct. It depends on what you want, where you are, your budget, your own skills. I've seen very basic drawings by the end user put in for planning and getting approval. They should not have been, but it was a basic extension and uncontroversial. Or you could have every detail covered: but that is not necessary for planning....and perhaps not for construction. Some architects plaster their drawings with generic statements, often repeated. 'By others' is fair enough. I don't want an Architect or architect designing electrics or plumbing or any structure that isn't standard and off a table. £3k for concept and planning? More if the building has complexity or the site is unusual or needs reports for planning. £15k is for a one-off design with complexities in design and for planning, and any special details thought out. Or an Architect on a roll in a wealthy area.

Perfect. You have responded properly and that is on the record. A meeting will determine if there is any issue, or conclude the matter. the neighbour will get a letter telling them that (presumably) no offence has taken place. The officer will have often encountered prejudice/ envy/ whatever and make allowances. They will also have plenty of cases of real mess that cannot be allowed to continue. I have had similar complaints and all have been seen to be either malicious or through ignorance, or through someone not understanding that a project isn't finished, and all have gone away. It is annoying but some people are just like that.

The weight gets applied to the bench and all goes to the pair of bolts. The likelihood is that it all sits on one bolt until it nestles down to be shared by both. but before that happens, the load acting downwards causes the spar to rotate with the bottom bolt as pivot point. You now have lots of load down on the top bolt and also pulling it apart at the top surface. that tiny bit of plastic above the top bolt fails. the spar is already much reduced by 2 holes in a line. bending continues and so does the crack, especially as this is now dynamic load. it is moving. all in an instant. If it was wood then there would be fibres longitudinally, holding it all together. But the aero bar is all one material and therefore . ....someone who understands plastic can take over.... With three bolts, the rotation is about one bolt but resisted by the other 2. one extra bolt, and at least double the strength. They are all a bit close to the edge. Bolts that bite into the plastic would be best to stop initial movement. I had one of them at our office for 15 years and it was fine. Then it was stolen so I can't say what the bolt arrangement was.

feasible but most don't like it. Most lenders are completely unimaginative and want a building to be finished. the same applies to insurers...I'm sure we are paying on the finished value, not the interim.