saveasteading

We have an old house with concrete floors without any insulation. The electric blanket in the bathroom floor is a very nice luxury. Mentioning this discussion to my wife she reminded me of how pleased we are with our electric towel rail. It is plumbed in to the CH but also has an electric heating rod in it. A cheap and simple control from Toolstation allows us to press a single button for 2 hours heat, and dry towels.

It is a very good point. I had one building (of 200+ with clad roofs) that had corrosion problems. It got legal. It was near the sea. The findings were that it was the architect's liability. I think standing seam would have been worse. Others near the sea were fine. Lashing rain is your friend. I don't want to hijack this thread so no more detail here.

Is that just for the looks? I have always persuaded clients to use profiled, screwed cladding. Why? 1/3 cheaper, and much less specialised. You should avoid any penetration through cladding but esp with ss. If there is damage through wind or branches, ss is horrible to repair of replace. In an urban situation, ss is mimicking zinc or lead roofing. In a rural situation that doesn't apply. Can suffer from 'oil canning'. FOR ss....no exposed screws. I reckon 1 per thousand has needed remedial work.

No. It would have been a waste of money, so 95% there isn't. Probably easiest to do a full dig out and pour.

If you are staggering overlaps these don't make much difference as they become air pockets. And consider the proportion of area....negligible.

You don't need to complicate it.

Oops. Sorry. 100mm will do it. Total 460 so still safer and cheaper than your 650. You don't add the 20 for ufh. It is in the screed , so 630. It may be possible to skimp more, but I'd need to know the circumstances.

is what I said. I've had hundreds of projects experience with them so appreciate that the standard of inspectors' knowledge varies. But I've also heard so many tales from them about appalling standards and attitude of some builders, and householders...I and you haven't seen how bad it can be apparently.

As above. Digging deep is to be avoided so minimise it. Eps is half as effective as pir, for half the price. V approximately. So I suggest : reduce the sand to the minimum to get a smooth surface.* Use quality stone rather than hardcore then add 10mm sand. 140 + 10. 150 dpm 150mm pir Membrane 60mm screed. Total 360mm. that is saving money all round and reducing risk. Way more than the energy cost saving you are losing long term. OR even 100mm Pir and add more insulation elsewhere. *50mm is only necessary to overcome rough work in texture or levelling. Plus you get footprints.

Beware sliding gates. Maybe it only applies in commercial circumstances, but there are regulations to protect someone poking their arm through and breaking it against the post. If requires a pressure stop.

Does it need to be so wide? I simplified mine by using a small fixed gate and an automated field gate. The fixed is opened very occasionally for a bigger vehicle. I have a slope which I thought was a problem but we juggled the height and it swings just past. If it is to keep in toddlers and dogs then that would be different. My gate people relished the challenges: they've seen most before, so speak so them.

They are not designers. But if you present a half decent proposal they will discuss any problems with it....but it isn't for them to sort problems...the fee is too small. Their job is to keep standards to a reasonably high level for you and society. We may not always agree with the bco ( I've had big arguments too) but I think your comment is unfair.

Not the planners' role. The designer's. I'm thinking the design isn't by a building expert. Later, building control would refuse approval

And a legal requirement. I'm rather shocked that the architect (A?) doesn't know this.

How exciting. It is an office block Or hotel. Few builders can do this so you need big, commercial builders. Add 50% to any general guidelines. A 2 storey retaining wall is remarkable. Huge costs. Also concrete is unforgiving. Where do insulation and services go? My hunch is that steel, or hybrid, might be better value, but I would be costing it in several ways. Presumably you don't have much external space, hence the 6 cars in the basement. So lots of excavation and retaining walls, and high muck away costs? You need a lift. My hunch is to agree with the £4M plus VAT. Plus allow risk. I can't see anybody with £5M available living in a caravan for 2 years.

Leaks have all stopped for now. floor and ceiling drying, and dining table safe So today I went to do the simple task of removing the overflow and perhaps adding a sealing ring and re-fixing it. Not so easy. I couldn't unwind the plastic nut because it is damaged with what looks like a hacksaw cut. It appears that the original fitter was at the preschool stage of his apprenticeship. The thread is damaged under the nut...that's why he hadn't tightened it. Had to saw it off. Also the washer is on the outside.. it should be inside? Yes. Or both? so... pop up to screwfix for a new one? next day delivery and only in packs of five. cheap though. so,,,to Travis Perkins. None in stock and didn't really know what I meant. Now ordered from SF. Yet gain SF stocks annoyingly low, with half of what I want being next day. Replacement inlet valves don't seem to have washer seals included, but do have reduced diameter facing plates that will go through the tank hole. I suppose it doesn't need sealing because it is above the overflow. I think I will still apply Fernox everywhere though against splashing.

I've noticed that all timber kit people, sips or stick, exclude steel and scaffolding. As if they have no idea what will be needed. Thus the prices are falsely low.

Absolutely not. In skips and at waste handling centres it is collected separately for safe disposal, it's so nasty. In theory the manufacturers take it back and recycle it. In practice I think they avoid doing so.

As above. Photo? It seems you don't want to or maybe don't have access. But it would explain so much, and perhaps we'd see something significant that you don't. Otherwise, we're not making progress.

Venting into the attic doesn't seem nice unless it is draughty. Best to avoid roof penetrations when possible too. Can it come out under the eaves? OR can that upstream manhole be ventilated?

With "mean" * being an appropriate term. I've even got some washers in my Pb toolbox. But I think dismantling the valve will be trickier than exchanging it. You know, I might even buy a new float although the old one is OK. * sustainability driven No I hadn't thought of that. It may be badly diluted. Webs are certainly blocking my tubes.

Because bounce is noticeable and should show up in thorough surveys. The solution may not be too drastic.. select from... 1. Insert additional joists. 2. Screw timbers to the sides 3. Screw plywood to the sides 4. Build floor and/or ceiling in plywood. I did 4, where I had very limited depth to match an ancient skinny, bouncy floor. Plywood on top with lots of fixings satisfied bco and performed well. (it transforms the joists into T beams with very strong top flanges.)

Holyrood palace supposedly decided to turn the worn parade ground sandstone slabs over and....yes. the victorians had done that before. The washer is likely to be limed up. But I'm going to break the bank with a new washer....maybe even a new assembly.

Good news and can I have some reassurance, see last line. I found the problem and it is an easy solution. After clearing away soggy fibreglass and 2" of sawdust from the joists, and soggy tank jackets, I could see where it was dripping. I think it has been doing this for months but the sawdust has held it, expect occasionally it releases some. The header tank overflow is leaking at the junction and also loose. So I tried to seal it in situ but that didn't work. Needs taking apart. BUT then I thought why is the water so high. So then I saw that the float valve isn't closing and there is a drip every few seconds, even when forces shut. Simple: turn off the inlet valve. It wouldn't shut but eventually did. So it is sorted for now. I just have to decide whether to do it myself or get a plumber. It might just need a washer but changing the assembly is probably as easy. It is apprentice stuff, but sometimes things go wrong. BUT am I right in thinking that 8" of water in the tank is plenty for any changes in the heating system? For a few days.

It isn't a surveyor, but a Structural Engineer. Look for a local practice and phone them.